<html><head></head><body><div class="ydp1d0b5b52yahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;"></div><div class="ydp1d0b5b52yahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;">
</div><div class="ydp1d0b5b52yahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;" dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">NEAT IDEA!</div><div class="ydp1d0b5b52yahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;" dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Thanks Spencer.</div><div class="ydp1d0b5b52yahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;" dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">David</div><div class="ydp1d0b5b52yahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;"><br></div><div class="ydp1d0b5b52yahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;">
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On Monday, April 20, 2020, 10:26:16 AM EDT, Cecil Bearden <crbearden@copper.net> wrote:
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<p>Good trick Spencer!! I guess the newer generation would call
that a Hack!!! My old mentor would call that his trade secret!!
I sure miss that old guy. He started out in the Blacksmith shop
at 14yrs old. Had only a 6th grade education, but could make
anything run that came on the place. I had the good fortune to
work alongside this fellow when I was 14 also. I worked with him
while going to college until he retired 6 years later. The man was
like a Grandfather to me. I suppose that is why I learned
mechanics as well as I did. <br clear="none">
Cecil</p>
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<div class="yiv2803251668yqt1844772189" id="yiv2803251668yqtfd89886"><div class="yiv2803251668moz-cite-prefix">On 4/20/2020 9:16 AM, Stephen Offiler
wrote:<br clear="none">
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</blockquote></div></div><div class="yiv2803251668yqt1844772189" id="yiv2803251668yqtfd22927"><div><div dir="ltr">That's a neat trick Spencer! Archiving that one...<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
<div>SO</div>
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<div class="yiv2803251668gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Sun, Apr 19, 2020 at 10:45
PM Spencer Yost <<a href="mailto:spencer@rdfarms.com" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:spencer@rdfarms.com">spencer@rdfarms.com</a>> wrote:<br clear="none">
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<blockquote class="yiv2803251668gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">It’s
a bit of a pain, but try to find a little brass barb that will
fit in the drain. Then attach a clear plastic tube to the
barb. Route the tube upward and secure then open the fuel
petcock. Look at the level of gasoline in the tube. That
level should fall short of the base (actually the bottom of
the gasket between the base and bowl) by the exact
specification mentioned for your carburetor.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
After having dealt with a lot of floats that have been
completely mangled by previous owners, I have found
occasionally this is the only measurement that seems to work.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Spencer<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Sent from my iPhone<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
> On Apr 19, 2020, at 10:27 PM, Cecil Bearden <<a href="mailto:crbearden@copper.net" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:crbearden@copper.net">crbearden@copper.net</a>> wrote:<br clear="none">
> <br clear="none">
> I would pull the drain plug out of the carburetor bowl
and stick a wire up it to make sure nothing is blocking the
drain. Then check the flow out of the drain... If you only
get a drip out of the fuel bowl, and the drain hole is clear,
then the restriction is between the needle and the sediment
bowl. Remove the gas line from the carburetor and check the
flow out of the line...<br clear="none">
> Cecil<br clear="none">
> <br clear="none">
>> On 4/19/2020 8:57 PM, <a href="mailto:szabelski@wildblue.net" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:szabelski@wildblue.net">szabelski@wildblue.net</a> wrote:<br clear="none">
>> Fuel flowing, float not stuck, is the needle valve
stuck or dirt where the needle valve is being plugged???<br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> Carl<br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> ----- Original Message -----<br clear="none">
>> From: STEVE ALLEN <<a href="mailto:steveallen855@centurytel.net" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:steveallen855@centurytel.net">steveallen855@centurytel.net</a>><br clear="none">
>> To: <a href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a><br clear="none">
>> Sent: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 19:58:10 -0400 (EDT)<br clear="none">
>> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (<a href="mailto:deanvp@att.net" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:deanvp@att.net">deanvp@att.net</a>) + PROGRESS on the
'49 A wheels!<br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> Dean and Cecil,<br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> The pic shows the INSIDE of the drum, where the brake
shoes run.<br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> As for the carb, I have the drain cock open on the
carb bowl--that makes no difference. Also, I replaced the
needle-and-seat, and I have verified that they are not stuck
closed. The only way the sediment bowl will fill is if it is
loose enough for gas to run out the top of it. More will run
out there than will drip out of the carb. The fuel line is
clear, the screens and gaskets are all new, clean, and in the
right places. That's why I am so confused.<br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> While waiting on the new distributor cap and thinking
about this fuel headache, my boy and I cut grass today. Then,
we decided to work some more on the '49 A wheels I wrote about
last year (I labeled it a '48, but the numbers apparently have
been revised to say it is a '49). Anyway, we took the new
electric impact out to the shed to see if it would have any
effect on those remaining lug bolts on the wheel I heated,
pounded on, and otherwise cussed so long. Hey, Presto! it
spun them all out in a trice. Literally three minutes, and
all were out.<br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> Then, I figures, what the hey? let's try the other
wheel. I had heated it some but not nearly as much. We got 2
out of the 7. Tuesday, if my plans hold, we'll get the torch
out there and apply more heat and get the others. Since the
tractor is so close to the shed wall, I had to drill a hole in
the cedar siding to get the impact on the left side.
Unorthodox, but I was NOT going to try to move the tractor at
that point. I didn't want to have to rebuild my cribbing.<br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> Anyway, the weekend has had its challenges and
rewards. I hope the info above helps folks understand the
situation with the fuel and the brakes for the '51.<br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> Thanks for all the help so far!<br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> The "original" Steve Allen<br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> ----- Original Message -----<br clear="none">
>> Message: 7<br clear="none">
>> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 09:26:11 -0700<br clear="none">
>> From: <<a href="mailto:deanvp@att.net" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:deanvp@att.net">deanvp@att.net</a>><br clear="none">
>> To: "'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group'"<br clear="none">
>> <<a href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a>><br clear="none">
>> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!!<br clear="none">
>> Message-ID: <019901d61667$3f6aba50$be402ef0$@<a href="http://att.net" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect">att.net</a>><br clear="none">
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> Steve,<br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> Having a little trouble figuring out if that is the
back side of the face of the drum or not but that particular
surface just needs to clean enough to remove really major
surface issues. The only side that is somewhat sensitive is
the inside surface of the drum that the brake shoe lining rubs
against when activated to stop. .<br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> After cleaning all loose parts should rotate and
slide in their respective holes with very little finger
pressure, No friction. These are the parts I put anti-seize
grease on to try oi keep them from rusting again but not get
grease on the brake shoe surface. Be somewhat skimpy with
the grease but make sure all surfaces of the moving parts have
been covered.<br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> Does the fuel run out of the carburetor bowl when the
sediment bowl fills up? If not the carburetor float needle and
seat is sticking closed. In a properly sealed system the
sediment bulb will not fill up because the float probably is
shutting off fuel flow to the carburetor because that
carburetor bowl is probably already full. Therefore you have
an airlock. I usually loosen the carburetor drain a little and
let some fuel run out to fill the bowl. If no fuel comes out
of the carburetor fuel bowl then you have a carburetor float
that is sticking or a carburetor needle sticking in its seat.
Once some fuel comes out of the carburetor bowl drain the
sediment bulb should fill up. Now having that in turn drip or
leak when the bulb is full is kind of incongruous since you
had an air tight air lock before. Sure its just not residue
from when you were filling up the bulb?<br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> But..... if none of that makes sense and you can get
fuel into the carburetor bowl and you can get the sediment
bowl to fill by lessening it and the tractor will run ignore
the problem temporarily. And I will think on it. Its been
awhile since I've had to deal with a bowl that won't fill.
But I have been there done that.<br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> Dean VP<br clear="none">
>> Apache Junction, AZ<br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> -----Original Message-----<br clear="none">
>> Message: 8<br clear="none">
>> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 12:38:39 -0500<br clear="none">
>> From: Cecil Bearden <<a href="mailto:crbearden@copper.net" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:crbearden@copper.net">crbearden@copper.net</a>><br clear="none">
>> To: <a href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a><br clear="none">
>> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!!<br clear="none">
>> Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:2fd2cd68-7248-182d-4fa7-d3b230819109@copper.net" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:2fd2cd68-7248-182d-4fa7-d3b230819109@copper.net">2fd2cd68-7248-182d-4fa7-d3b230819109@copper.net</a>><br clear="none">
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8;
format=flowed<br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> I have had a rusty screen on top of the bowl, inside
the housing that<br clear="none">
>> would prevent gas from going through.?? I just pull
the screen out and<br clear="none">
>> cut the line and install an inline filter.? I don't
run any gas engine<br clear="none">
>> without inline filters.<br clear="none">
>> Cecil<br clear="none">
>> <br clear="none">
>> _______________________________________________<br clear="none">
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