[AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) + PROGRESS on the '49 A wheels!
Cecil Bearden
crbearden at copper.net
Mon Apr 20 07:25:55 PDT 2020
Good trick Spencer!! I guess the newer generation would call that a
Hack!!! My old mentor would call that his trade secret!! I sure miss
that old guy. He started out in the Blacksmith shop at 14yrs old. Had
only a 6th grade education, but could make anything run that came on the
place. I had the good fortune to work alongside this fellow when I was
14 also. I worked with him while going to college until he retired 6
years later. The man was like a Grandfather to me. I suppose that is
why I learned mechanics as well as I did.
Cecil
On 4/20/2020 9:16 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
> That's a neat trick Spencer! Archiving that one...
>
> SO
>
> On Sun, Apr 19, 2020 at 10:45 PM Spencer Yost <spencer at rdfarms.com
> <mailto:spencer at rdfarms.com>> wrote:
>
> It’s a bit of a pain, but try to find a little brass barb that
> will fit in the drain. Then attach a clear plastic tube to the
> barb. Route the tube upward and secure then open the fuel
> petcock. Look at the level of gasoline in the tube. That level
> should fall short of the base (actually the bottom of the gasket
> between the base and bowl) by the exact specification mentioned
> for your carburetor.
>
> After having dealt with a lot of floats that have been completely
> mangled by previous owners, I have found occasionally this is the
> only measurement that seems to work.
>
> Spencer
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Apr 19, 2020, at 10:27 PM, Cecil Bearden
> <crbearden at copper.net <mailto:crbearden at copper.net>> wrote:
> >
> > I would pull the drain plug out of the carburetor bowl and
> stick a wire up it to make sure nothing is blocking the drain.
> Then check the flow out of the drain... If you only get a drip
> out of the fuel bowl, and the drain hole is clear, then the
> restriction is between the needle and the sediment bowl. Remove
> the gas line from the carburetor and check the flow out of the line...
> > Cecil
> >
> >> On 4/19/2020 8:57 PM, szabelski at wildblue.net
> <mailto:szabelski at wildblue.net> wrote:
> >> Fuel flowing, float not stuck, is the needle valve stuck or
> dirt where the needle valve is being plugged???
> >>
> >> Carl
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net
> <mailto:steveallen855 at centurytel.net>>
> >> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> >> Sent: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 19:58:10 -0400 (EDT)
> >> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net
> <mailto:deanvp at att.net>) + PROGRESS on the '49 A wheels!
> >>
> >> Dean and Cecil,
> >>
> >> The pic shows the INSIDE of the drum, where the brake shoes run.
> >>
> >> As for the carb, I have the drain cock open on the carb
> bowl--that makes no difference. Also, I replaced the
> needle-and-seat, and I have verified that they are not stuck
> closed. The only way the sediment bowl will fill is if it is
> loose enough for gas to run out the top of it. More will run out
> there than will drip out of the carb. The fuel line is clear, the
> screens and gaskets are all new, clean, and in the right places.
> That's why I am so confused.
> >>
> >> While waiting on the new distributor cap and thinking about
> this fuel headache, my boy and I cut grass today. Then, we
> decided to work some more on the '49 A wheels I wrote about last
> year (I labeled it a '48, but the numbers apparently have been
> revised to say it is a '49). Anyway, we took the new electric
> impact out to the shed to see if it would have any effect on those
> remaining lug bolts on the wheel I heated, pounded on, and
> otherwise cussed so long. Hey, Presto! it spun them all out in a
> trice. Literally three minutes, and all were out.
> >>
> >> Then, I figures, what the hey? let's try the other wheel. I
> had heated it some but not nearly as much. We got 2 out of the
> 7. Tuesday, if my plans hold, we'll get the torch out there and
> apply more heat and get the others. Since the tractor is so close
> to the shed wall, I had to drill a hole in the cedar siding to get
> the impact on the left side. Unorthodox, but I was NOT going to
> try to move the tractor at that point. I didn't want to have to
> rebuild my cribbing.
> >>
> >> Anyway, the weekend has had its challenges and rewards. I hope
> the info above helps folks understand the situation with the fuel
> and the brakes for the '51.
> >>
> >> Thanks for all the help so far!
> >>
> >> The "original" Steve Allen
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> Message: 7
> >> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 09:26:11 -0700
> >> From: <deanvp at att.net <mailto:deanvp at att.net>>
> >> To: "'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group'"
> >> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>>
> >> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!!
> >> Message-ID: <019901d61667$3f6aba50$be402ef0$@att.net
> <http://att.net>>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >>
> >> Steve,
> >>
> >> Having a little trouble figuring out if that is the back side
> of the face of the drum or not but that particular surface just
> needs to clean enough to remove really major surface issues. The
> only side that is somewhat sensitive is the inside surface of the
> drum that the brake shoe lining rubs against when activated to stop. .
> >>
> >> After cleaning all loose parts should rotate and slide in their
> respective holes with very little finger pressure, No friction.
> These are the parts I put anti-seize grease on to try oi keep them
> from rusting again but not get grease on the brake shoe surface.
> Be somewhat skimpy with the grease but make sure all surfaces of
> the moving parts have been covered.
> >>
> >> Does the fuel run out of the carburetor bowl when the sediment
> bowl fills up? If not the carburetor float needle and seat is
> sticking closed. In a properly sealed system the sediment bulb
> will not fill up because the float probably is shutting off fuel
> flow to the carburetor because that carburetor bowl is probably
> already full. Therefore you have an airlock. I usually loosen the
> carburetor drain a little and let some fuel run out to fill the
> bowl. If no fuel comes out of the carburetor fuel bowl then you
> have a carburetor float that is sticking or a carburetor needle
> sticking in its seat. Once some fuel comes out of the carburetor
> bowl drain the sediment bulb should fill up. Now having that in
> turn drip or leak when the bulb is full is kind of incongruous
> since you had an air tight air lock before. Sure its just not
> residue from when you were filling up the bulb?
> >>
> >> But..... if none of that makes sense and you can get fuel into
> the carburetor bowl and you can get the sediment bowl to fill by
> lessening it and the tractor will run ignore the problem
> temporarily. And I will think on it. Its been awhile since I've
> had to deal with a bowl that won't fill. But I have been there
> done that.
> >>
> >> Dean VP
> >> Apache Junction, AZ
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> Message: 8
> >> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 12:38:39 -0500
> >> From: Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net
> <mailto:crbearden at copper.net>>
> >> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> >> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!!
> >> Message-ID: <2fd2cd68-7248-182d-4fa7-d3b230819109 at copper.net
> <mailto:2fd2cd68-7248-182d-4fa7-d3b230819109 at copper.net>>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> >>
> >> I have had a rusty screen on top of the bowl, inside the
> housing that
> >> would prevent gas from going through.?? I just pull the screen
> out and
> >> cut the line and install an inline filter.? I don't run any gas
> engine
> >> without inline filters.
> >> Cecil
> >>
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