[AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) + PROGRESS on the '49 A wheels!

Cecil Bearden crbearden at copper.net
Mon Apr 20 07:25:55 PDT 2020


Good trick Spencer!!  I guess the newer generation would call that a 
Hack!!!  My old mentor would call that his trade secret!! I sure miss 
that old guy.  He started out in the Blacksmith shop at 14yrs old.  Had 
only a 6th grade education, but could make anything run that came on the 
place.  I had the good fortune to work alongside this fellow when I was 
14 also.  I worked with him while going to college until he retired 6 
years later. The man was like a Grandfather to me.   I suppose that is 
why I learned mechanics as well as I did.
Cecil


On 4/20/2020 9:16 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
> That's a neat trick Spencer!  Archiving that one...
>
> SO
>
> On Sun, Apr 19, 2020 at 10:45 PM Spencer Yost <spencer at rdfarms.com 
> <mailto:spencer at rdfarms.com>> wrote:
>
>     It’s a bit of a pain, but try to find a little brass barb that
>     will fit in the drain.   Then attach a clear plastic tube to the
>     barb.    Route the tube upward and secure then open the fuel
>     petcock.  Look at the level of gasoline in the tube.   That level
>     should fall short of the base (actually the bottom of the gasket
>     between the base and bowl) by the exact specification mentioned
>     for your carburetor.
>
>     After having dealt with a lot of floats that have  been completely
>     mangled by previous owners, I have found occasionally this is the
>     only measurement that seems to work.
>
>     Spencer
>
>     Sent from my iPhone
>
>     > On Apr 19, 2020, at 10:27 PM, Cecil Bearden
>     <crbearden at copper.net <mailto:crbearden at copper.net>> wrote:
>     >
>     > I would pull the drain plug out of the carburetor bowl and
>     stick a wire up it to make sure nothing is blocking the drain. 
>     Then check the flow out of the drain...  If you only get a drip
>     out of the fuel bowl, and the drain hole is clear, then the
>     restriction is between the needle and the sediment bowl.   Remove
>     the gas line from the carburetor and check the flow out of the line...
>     > Cecil
>     >
>     >> On 4/19/2020 8:57 PM, szabelski at wildblue.net
>     <mailto:szabelski at wildblue.net> wrote:
>     >> Fuel flowing, float not stuck, is the needle valve stuck or
>     dirt where the needle valve is being plugged???
>     >>
>     >> Carl
>     >>
>     >> ----- Original Message -----
>     >> From: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net
>     <mailto:steveallen855 at centurytel.net>>
>     >> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>     <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>     >> Sent: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 19:58:10 -0400 (EDT)
>     >> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net
>     <mailto:deanvp at att.net>) + PROGRESS on the '49 A wheels!
>     >>
>     >> Dean and Cecil,
>     >>
>     >> The pic shows the INSIDE of the drum, where the brake shoes run.
>     >>
>     >> As for the carb, I have the drain cock open on the carb
>     bowl--that makes no difference.  Also, I replaced the
>     needle-and-seat, and I have verified that they are not stuck
>     closed.  The only way the sediment bowl will fill is if it is
>     loose enough for gas to run out the top of it.  More will run out
>     there than will drip out of the carb.  The fuel line is clear, the
>     screens and gaskets are all new, clean, and in the right places. 
>     That's why I am so confused.
>     >>
>     >> While waiting on the new distributor cap and thinking about
>     this fuel headache, my boy and I cut grass today.  Then, we
>     decided to work some more on the '49 A wheels I wrote about last
>     year (I labeled it a '48, but the numbers apparently have been
>     revised to say it is a '49).  Anyway, we took the new electric
>     impact out to the shed to see if it would have any effect on those
>     remaining lug bolts on the wheel I heated, pounded on, and
>     otherwise cussed so long.  Hey, Presto! it spun them all out in a
>     trice.  Literally three minutes, and all were out.
>     >>
>     >> Then, I figures, what the hey?  let's try the other wheel.  I
>     had heated it some but not nearly as much.  We got 2 out of the
>     7.  Tuesday, if my plans hold, we'll get the torch out there and
>     apply more heat and get the others.  Since the tractor is so close
>     to the shed wall, I had to drill a hole in the cedar siding to get
>     the impact on the left side. Unorthodox, but I was NOT going to
>     try to move the tractor at that point.  I didn't want to have to
>     rebuild my cribbing.
>     >>
>     >> Anyway, the weekend has had its challenges and rewards.  I hope
>     the info above helps folks understand the situation with the fuel
>     and the brakes for the '51.
>     >>
>     >> Thanks for all the help so far!
>     >>
>     >> The "original" Steve Allen
>     >>
>     >>
>     >>
>     >>
>     >> ----- Original Message -----
>     >> Message: 7
>     >> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 09:26:11 -0700
>     >> From: <deanvp at att.net <mailto:deanvp at att.net>>
>     >> To: "'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group'"
>     >>    <at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>     <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>>
>     >> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!!
>     >> Message-ID: <019901d61667$3f6aba50$be402ef0$@att.net
>     <http://att.net>>
>     >> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="utf-8"
>     >>
>     >> Steve,
>     >>
>     >> Having a little trouble figuring out if that is the back side
>     of the face of the drum or not but that particular surface just
>     needs to clean enough to remove  really major surface issues. The
>     only side that is somewhat sensitive is the inside surface of the
>     drum that the brake shoe lining rubs against when activated to stop. .
>     >>
>     >> After cleaning all loose parts should rotate and slide in their
>     respective holes with very little finger pressure, No friction.
>     These are the parts I put anti-seize grease on to try oi keep them
>     from rusting again but not get grease on the brake shoe surface. 
>      Be somewhat skimpy with the grease but make sure all surfaces of
>     the moving parts have been covered.
>     >>
>     >> Does the fuel run out of the carburetor bowl when the sediment
>     bowl fills up? If not the carburetor float needle and seat is
>     sticking closed.  In a properly sealed system the sediment  bulb
>     will not fill up because the float probably is shutting off fuel
>     flow to the carburetor because that carburetor bowl is probably
>     already full.  Therefore you have an airlock. I usually loosen the
>     carburetor drain a little and let some fuel run out to fill the
>     bowl.  If no fuel comes out of the carburetor fuel bowl then you
>     have a carburetor float that is sticking or a carburetor needle
>     sticking in its seat. Once some fuel comes out of the carburetor
>     bowl drain the sediment bulb should fill up. Now having that in
>     turn drip or leak when the bulb is full is kind of incongruous
>     since you had an air tight air lock before. Sure its just not
>     residue from when you were filling up the bulb?
>     >>
>     >> But..... if none of that makes sense and you can get fuel into
>     the carburetor bowl and you can get the sediment bowl to fill by
>     lessening it and the tractor will run ignore the problem
>     temporarily. And I will think on it.   Its been awhile since I've
>     had to deal with a bowl that won't fill. But I have been there
>     done that.
>     >>
>     >> Dean VP
>     >> Apache Junction, AZ
>     >>
>     >> -----Original Message-----
>     >> Message: 8
>     >> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 12:38:39 -0500
>     >> From: Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net
>     <mailto:crbearden at copper.net>>
>     >> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>     <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>     >> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!!
>     >> Message-ID: <2fd2cd68-7248-182d-4fa7-d3b230819109 at copper.net
>     <mailto:2fd2cd68-7248-182d-4fa7-d3b230819109 at copper.net>>
>     >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>     >>
>     >> I have had a rusty screen on top of the bowl, inside the
>     housing that
>     >> would prevent gas from going through.?? I just pull the screen
>     out and
>     >> cut the line and install an inline filter.? I don't run any gas
>     engine
>     >> without inline filters.
>     >> Cecil
>     >>
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