[AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) + PROGRESS on the '49 A wheels!

Stephen Offiler soffiler at gmail.com
Mon Apr 20 07:16:15 PDT 2020


That's a neat trick Spencer!  Archiving that one...

SO

On Sun, Apr 19, 2020 at 10:45 PM Spencer Yost <spencer at rdfarms.com> wrote:

> It’s a bit of a pain, but try to find a little brass barb that will fit in
> the drain.   Then attach a clear plastic tube to the barb.    Route the
> tube upward and secure then open the fuel petcock.  Look at the level of
> gasoline in the tube.   That level should fall short of the base (actually
> the bottom of the gasket between the base and bowl) by the exact
> specification mentioned for your carburetor.
>
> After having dealt with a lot of floats that have  been completely mangled
> by previous owners, I have found occasionally this is the only measurement
> that seems to work.
>
> Spencer
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Apr 19, 2020, at 10:27 PM, Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
> wrote:
> >
> > I would pull the drain plug out of the carburetor bowl and stick a wire
> up it to make sure nothing is blocking the drain.  Then check the flow out
> of the drain...  If you only get a drip out of the fuel bowl, and the drain
> hole is clear, then the restriction is between the needle and the sediment
> bowl.   Remove the gas line from the carburetor and check the flow out of
> the line...
> > Cecil
> >
> >> On 4/19/2020 8:57 PM, szabelski at wildblue.net wrote:
> >> Fuel flowing, float not stuck, is the needle valve stuck or dirt where
> the needle valve is being plugged???
> >>
> >> Carl
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net>
> >> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> >> Sent: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 19:58:10 -0400 (EDT)
> >> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) +
> PROGRESS on the '49 A wheels!
> >>
> >> Dean and Cecil,
> >>
> >> The pic shows the INSIDE of the drum, where the brake shoes run.
> >>
> >> As for the carb, I have the drain cock open on the carb bowl--that
> makes no difference.  Also, I replaced the needle-and-seat, and I have
> verified that they are not stuck closed.  The only way the sediment bowl
> will fill is if it is loose enough for gas to run out the top of it.  More
> will run out there than will drip out of the carb.  The fuel line is clear,
> the screens and gaskets are all new, clean, and in the right places.
> That's why I am so confused.
> >>
> >> While waiting on the new distributor cap and thinking about this fuel
> headache, my boy and I cut grass today.  Then, we decided to work some more
> on the '49 A wheels I wrote about last year (I labeled it a '48, but the
> numbers apparently have been revised to say it is a '49).  Anyway, we took
> the new electric impact out to the shed to see if it would have any effect
> on those remaining lug bolts on the wheel I heated, pounded on, and
> otherwise cussed so long.  Hey, Presto! it spun them all out in a trice.
> Literally three minutes, and all were out.
> >>
> >> Then, I figures, what the hey?  let's try the other wheel.  I had
> heated it some but not nearly as much.  We got 2 out of the 7.  Tuesday, if
> my plans hold, we'll get the torch out there and apply more heat and get
> the others.  Since the tractor is so close to the shed wall, I had to drill
> a hole in the cedar siding to get the impact on the left side.  Unorthodox,
> but I was NOT going to try to move the tractor at that point.  I didn't
> want to have to rebuild my cribbing.
> >>
> >> Anyway, the weekend has had its challenges and rewards.  I hope the
> info above helps folks understand the situation with the fuel and the
> brakes for the '51.
> >>
> >> Thanks for all the help so far!
> >>
> >> The "original" Steve Allen
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> Message: 7
> >> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 09:26:11 -0700
> >> From: <deanvp at att.net>
> >> To: "'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group'"
> >>    <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> >> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!!
> >> Message-ID: <019901d61667$3f6aba50$be402ef0$@att.net>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="utf-8"
> >>
> >> Steve,
> >>
> >> Having a little trouble figuring out if that is the back side of the
> face of the drum or not but that particular surface just needs to clean
> enough to remove  really major surface issues. The only side that is
> somewhat sensitive is the inside surface of the drum that the brake shoe
> lining rubs against when activated to stop. .
> >>
> >> After cleaning all loose parts should rotate and slide in their
> respective holes with very little finger pressure, No friction. These are
> the parts I put anti-seize grease on to try oi keep them from rusting again
> but not get grease on the brake shoe surface.   Be somewhat skimpy with the
> grease but make sure all surfaces of the moving parts have been covered.
> >>
> >> Does the fuel run out of the carburetor bowl when the sediment bowl
> fills up? If not the carburetor float needle and seat is sticking closed.
> In a properly sealed system the sediment  bulb will not fill up because the
> float probably is shutting off fuel flow to the carburetor because that
> carburetor bowl is probably already full.  Therefore you have an airlock. I
> usually loosen the carburetor drain a little and let some fuel run out to
> fill the bowl.  If no fuel comes out of the carburetor fuel bowl then you
> have a carburetor float that is sticking or a carburetor needle sticking in
> its seat.  Once some fuel comes out of the carburetor bowl drain the
> sediment bulb should fill up. Now having that in turn drip or leak when the
> bulb is full is kind of incongruous since you had an air tight air lock
> before. Sure its just not residue from when you were filling up the bulb?
> >>
> >> But..... if none of that makes sense and you can get fuel into the
> carburetor bowl and you can get the sediment bowl to fill by lessening it
> and the tractor will run ignore the problem temporarily. And I will think
> on it.   Its been awhile since I've had to deal with a bowl that won't
> fill.  But I have been there done that.
> >>
> >> Dean VP
> >> Apache Junction, AZ
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> Message: 8
> >> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 12:38:39 -0500
> >> From: Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
> >> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> >> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!!
> >> Message-ID: <2fd2cd68-7248-182d-4fa7-d3b230819109 at copper.net>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> >>
> >> I have had a rusty screen on top of the bowl, inside the housing that
> >> would prevent gas from going through.?? I just pull the screen out and
> >> cut the line and install an inline filter.? I don't run any gas engine
> >> without inline filters.
> >> Cecil
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> AT mailing list
> >> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
> >> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> AT mailing list
> >> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
> >> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
> > http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://lists.antique-tractor.com/pipermail/at-antique-tractor.com/attachments/20200420/c10d3bce/attachment.htm>


More information about the AT mailing list