[AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!!

STEVE ALLEN steveallen855 at centurytel.net
Sat Apr 18 15:59:54 PDT 2020


Dean,

I have attached a pic, but it may be too big--I don't remember the limit.  It shows a patch of the worst surface.  I have used a rotary wire brush to clean the loose stuff off.

I have no intention of trying for perfection.  I need the thing to run and work in the field.  I don't know if the kind of roughness you see here requires more attention or not.  I am spending a fair amount on this brake job, and I don't want to have to do it again any time soon ;-)

Right now, I have also cleaned up the inside of the casting where the pedal shaft, the adjuster, the can, and the adjusting pins go.  Shotgun cleaning brushes proved to be pretty effective.  

Been fighting the fuel and ignition systems today.  I The ignitions switch makes contact only intermittently, and the distributor cap contacts are a mess, so new ones are on the way.  The tractor has good compression:  it's real tight to turn the pulley to get the points on the cam to set the gap.  

The fuel sediment bowl has me flummoxed.  When I open the valve, it will not fill the bowl unless the bowl is loosened.  Loosen the bowl so that gas runs out over the top, and it will fill the bowl and send gas to the carb.  but have the bowl tight against the gasket, and it will just drip a very small amount, even with the valve wide open.  It acts like the system is pressurized, even with the drain cock on the carb bowl open.  I took the thing off and verified that all the passages in the sediment filter casting are open and free.  Durned if I know why the gas won't run until I loosen the bowl.  

Thursday was a good day; today, not so much.

Ain't Old Iron fun?

The "original" Steve Allen

----- Original Message -----
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2020 19:16:08 -0700
From: <deanvp at att.net>
To: "'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group'"
	<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (Mark Johnson)
Message-ID: <052401d61527$53aa5cf0$faff16d0$@att.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"

Steve,

Congratulations on getting it all apart. That feels good doesn't it. Yes,
you can get the brake drum turned and yes there is enough meat left to do so
unless..... it has been turned before or something very unusual has happened
to gouge the drum surface deeper than anything I have ever seen.  Could you
describe that drum surface in a little more detail and maybe even provide
some pictures.  

PS:  I''ve taken apart probably 20  or more brake assemblies and some of the
drum have looked really ugly but all I have ever done is use a right angle
grinder with a wire brush wheel and cleaned them up to the point they are
useable.  Sure they would be better if they were turned but..... we aren't
dealing with a brake  that is going 80 miles an hour.  And sometimes it is
noticeable when applying the brakes that the inside of the drum isn't
perfect but... they do the job intended.  And.... if they are used enough
they get better with every application.    Maybe I'm penny wise and pound
foolish I've just never seen one so bad they need to be turned.  Yes, if I
have the money and time to fix every thing perfectly ...do it ....but if you
want a perfectly good working tractor brake clean the drum up to the best of
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