[AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!!

[Ken Knierim]

Not sure if it helps but for removing rust I'm using a needle scaler and it
seems to be more effective than a wire brush and somewhat less likely to
render the rust aerosol. I got it for knocking the slag off my arc welds.
It's also pretty effective at making me deaf if I don't have my ear
protection on. :)

Ken in AZ

On Sat, Apr 18, 2020 at 4:39 PM STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net>
wrote:

> Dean,
>
> I have attached a pic, but it may be too big--I don't remember the limit.
> It shows a patch of the worst surface.  I have used a rotary wire brush to
> clean the loose stuff off.
>
> I have no intention of trying for perfection.  I need the thing to run and
> work in the field.  I don't know if the kind of roughness you see here
> requires more attention or not.  I am spending a fair amount on this brake
> job, and I don't want to have to do it again any time soon ;-)
>
> Right now, I have also cleaned up the inside of the casting where the
> pedal shaft, the adjuster, the can, and the adjusting pins go.  Shotgun
> cleaning brushes proved to be pretty effective.
>
> Been fighting the fuel and ignition systems today.  I The ignitions switch
> makes contact only intermittently, and the distributor cap contacts are a
> mess, so new ones are on the way.  The tractor has good compression:  it's
> real tight to turn the pulley to get the points on the cam to set the gap.
>
> The fuel sediment bowl has me flummoxed.  When I open the valve, it will
> not fill the bowl unless the bowl is loosened.  Loosen the bowl so that gas
> runs out over the top, and it will fill the bowl and send gas to the carb.
> but have the bowl tight against the gasket, and it will just drip a very
> small amount, even with the valve wide open.  It acts like the system is
> pressurized, even with the drain cock on the carb bowl open.  I took the
> thing off and verified that all the passages in the sediment filter casting
> are open and free.  Durned if I know why the gas won't run until I loosen
> the bowl.
>
> Thursday was a good day; today, not so much.
>
> Ain't Old Iron fun?
>
> The "original" Steve Allen
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Message: 8
> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2020 19:16:08 -0700
> From: <deanvp at att.net>
> To: "'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group'"
>         <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (Mark Johnson)
> Message-ID: <052401d61527$53aa5cf0$faff16d0$@att.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="us-ascii"
>
> Steve,
>
> Congratulations on getting it all apart. That feels good doesn't it. Yes,
> you can get the brake drum turned and yes there is enough meat left to do
> so
> unless..... it has been turned before or something very unusual has
> happened
> to gouge the drum surface deeper than anything I have ever seen.  Could you
> describe that drum surface in a little more detail and maybe even provide
> some pictures.
>
> PS:  I''ve taken apart probably 20  or more brake assemblies and some of
> the
> drum have looked really ugly but all I have ever done is use a right angle
> grinder with a wire brush wheel and cleaned them up to the point they are
> useable.  Sure they would be better if they were turned but..... we aren't
> dealing with a brake  that is going 80 miles an hour.  And sometimes it is
> noticeable when applying the brakes that the inside of the drum isn't
> perfect but... they do the job intended.  And.... if they are used enough
> they get better with every application.    Maybe I'm penny wise and pound
> foolish I've just never seen one so bad they need to be turned.  Yes, if I
> have the money and time to fix every thing perfectly ...do it ....but if
> you
> want a perfectly good working tractor brake clean the drum up to the best
> of_______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>
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