[AT] Freeze plugs
Cecil Bearden
crbearden at copper.net
Fri Nov 8 19:07:28 PST 2019
Ken:
I think that is the reason that 30wt oil is best to use in the older
tractors. They run too cool ( relative) to get the viscosity improvers
in multi grade to thicken the oil. I am not sure of the exact water
temp that works the best for multi grade, but I think the 160 deg
thermostats would dictate the use of a straight weight oil. A 195 deg
one would probably get the oil hot enough to work with multi grade...
Just my $0.02
Cecil
On 11/8/2019 8:41 PM, Ken Knierim wrote:
> Cecil,
> My grandfather (a doctor) had a similar issue with casting sand in
> a new V-6 Buick (Skylark?) in about 1980. He bought it new off the lot
> and had trouble with it overheating constantly (over a couple years as
> I recall), with many trips back and forth to the dealer. At one point
> it blew one of the tanks off the radiator. After a lot of wrangling
> (and some strong urging from my uncle, a prominent lawyer in our small
> hometown, and an offer from my Dad to return it through the dealership
> with his bulldozer) the dealership finally took the car back in the
> shop and tore it down. Turns out the block had casting sand blocking
> the water jacket like you're describing. Replacement engine from GM
> and the problems magically ceased.
>
> Now on a tractor note, any D Case I've had apart has had some issues
> around the sleeves and generally needs to be dismantled so they can be
> cleaned up. The DH had half a 5 gallon bucket of rust and dirt in the
> block when I tore it down. I find it amazing how resilient that old
> iron was/is to neglect. Can't get away with that on most of the new
> stuff anyway. Maybe on the Belarus? :)
>
> Ken in AZ
>
>
>
> On Fri, Nov 8, 2019 at 3:17 PM Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net
> <mailto:crbearden at copper.net>> wrote:
>
> Back in the late 70's and early 80's I had a 77 Plymouth 4dr w/50K
> miles
> that I used for transportation as a sales engineer. The car had a bad
> rear end whine when I bought it. I had a few days off, so I
> pulled the
> rear end out and checked the bearings. They were shot. I bought a
> bearing kit and started to replace the bearings. When I pulled the
> pinion out the front bearing was galled badly. Further inspection
> revealed that the passage that carried oil from the sump to the
> front of
> the bearing was filled with casting sand. It took a couple of hours
> with a screwdriver, brake cleaner, and air pressure to get the
> sand out
> of the passage. New bearings installed and it sounded fine for
> another
> 50K miles until I sold it.
>
> About a year later I picked up a 75 Dodge pickup with 45K miles and a
> high speed rear end. It also had a bad whine, the reason I bought it
> for 1/2 price of blue book. Same thing with the casting sand in the
> pinion oil passage. This one got a new/used 4.10 ratio third
> member so
> I did not have to clean out the casting sand. It left with the core..
>
> In 77 I went to work for the state and the weights and measures
> agency
> had a Miller welder on sealed bid that they said always
> overheated.. I
> figured a bad head gasket. It had a Chrysler industrial 30. I pulled
> the head and found a bunch of crud down in the water jacket. I made a
> tee connection to fit the drain plug holes and filled the water
> jacket
> with the water hose then blasted the air to it. It took about 30
> minutes and a lot of water to get all the sand out of it. Again it
> was
> casting sand. I replaced all the freeze plugs/casting plugs, and
> bought
> a freeze plug driver set to install them. I still have the plug
> drivers.
>
> What was particularly interesting about these parts, is that they
> were
> all Chrysler products. Since then any time I pull a head on an
> engine I
> check deep in the water jacket for crud. Any engine I rebuild is
> boiled
> out.
>
> Cecil
>
> On 11/8/2019 9:59 AM, Spencer Yost wrote:
> >> On Nov 8, 2019, at 9:32 AM, Indiana Robinson
> <robinson46176 at gmail.com <mailto:robinson46176 at gmail.com>> wrote:
> >>
> >> I'm not sure why, neither are grape flavored.
> > Ha!
> >
> > I should have been clearer. I was referring to the cup shaped
> ones. I have had good success with the disc/dome plugs. But I
> have not done nearly as many of his them and my 100% success rate
> on those is probably sampling error. (-;
> >
> > I have a Mac tool called the “slammer hammer”. Drill a hole in
> the old plug, screw in the chuck with a screw, attach the slammer
> hammer and it pops right out. So I know I am not damaging the
> sides with the removal of the old plug; which I have seen folks do
> with drifts, punches and chisels.
> >
> > And like I’ve said, even though I’ve probably installed 35-40
> and only had a few leak I could not explain why they leaked and
> have been assuming operator error/technique.
> >
> > The continental engines on the Masseys had disc/dome type but
> only the Pacer has had such an extensive rebuild that all the
> freeze plugs had to be pulled and installed. The 22, colt, mustang
> and others I think maybe I’ve only done one or two corroded
> leakers on those. I can’t remember doing any others.
> >
> > Thanks for all the continued advice!
> >
> > Spencer
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