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<p>Ken:<br>
I think that is the reason that 30wt oil is best to use in the
older tractors. They run too cool ( relative) to get the
viscosity improvers in multi grade to thicken the oil. I am not
sure of the exact water temp that works the best for multi grade,
but I think the 160 deg thermostats would dictate the use of a
straight weight oil. A 195 deg one would probably get the oil hot
enough to work with multi grade...</p>
<p>Just my $0.02<br>
Cecil<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/8/2019 8:41 PM, Ken Knierim
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CACLRkA+XyNzR8snC6NRipf7jV7zAaz_1yo3sxQsJGHfwsQEZ0w@mail.gmail.com">
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<div dir="ltr">Cecil,
<div> My grandfather (a doctor) had a similar issue with
casting sand in a new V-6 Buick (Skylark?) in about 1980. He
bought it new off the lot and had trouble with it overheating
constantly (over a couple years as I recall), with many trips
back and forth to the dealer. At one point it blew one of the
tanks off the radiator. After a lot of wrangling (and some
strong urging from my uncle, a prominent lawyer in our small
hometown, and an offer from my Dad to return it through the
dealership with his bulldozer) the dealership finally took the
car back in the shop and tore it down. Turns out the block had
casting sand blocking the water jacket like you're describing.
Replacement engine from GM and the problems magically ceased. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Now on a tractor note, any D Case I've had apart has had
some issues around the sleeves and generally needs to be
dismantled so they can be cleaned up. The DH had half a 5
gallon bucket of rust and dirt in the block when I tore it
down. I find it amazing how resilient that old iron was/is to
neglect. Can't get away with that on most of the new stuff
anyway. Maybe on the Belarus? :)</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Ken in AZ</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Nov 8, 2019 at 3:17 PM
Cecil Bearden <<a href="mailto:crbearden@copper.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">crbearden@copper.net</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Back
in the late 70's and early 80's I had a 77 Plymouth 4dr w/50K
miles <br>
that I used for transportation as a sales engineer. The car
had a bad <br>
rear end whine when I bought it. I had a few days off, so I
pulled the <br>
rear end out and checked the bearings. They were shot. I
bought a <br>
bearing kit and started to replace the bearings. When I
pulled the <br>
pinion out the front bearing was galled badly. Further
inspection <br>
revealed that the passage that carried oil from the sump to
the front of <br>
the bearing was filled with casting sand. It took a couple of
hours <br>
with a screwdriver, brake cleaner, and air pressure to get the
sand out <br>
of the passage. New bearings installed and it sounded fine
for another <br>
50K miles until I sold it.<br>
<br>
About a year later I picked up a 75 Dodge pickup with 45K
miles and a <br>
high speed rear end. It also had a bad whine, the reason I
bought it <br>
for 1/2 price of blue book. Same thing with the casting sand
in the <br>
pinion oil passage. This one got a new/used 4.10 ratio third
member so <br>
I did not have to clean out the casting sand. It left with
the core..<br>
<br>
In 77 I went to work for the state and the weights and
measures agency <br>
had a Miller welder on sealed bid that they said always
overheated.. I <br>
figured a bad head gasket. It had a Chrysler industrial 30.
I pulled <br>
the head and found a bunch of crud down in the water jacket.
I made a <br>
tee connection to fit the drain plug holes and filled the
water jacket <br>
with the water hose then blasted the air to it. It took about
30 <br>
minutes and a lot of water to get all the sand out of it.
Again it was <br>
casting sand. I replaced all the freeze plugs/casting plugs,
and bought <br>
a freeze plug driver set to install them. I still have the
plug drivers.<br>
<br>
What was particularly interesting about these parts, is that
they were <br>
all Chrysler products. Since then any time I pull a head on
an engine I <br>
check deep in the water jacket for crud. Any engine I rebuild
is boiled <br>
out.<br>
<br>
Cecil<br>
<br>
On 11/8/2019 9:59 AM, Spencer Yost wrote:<br>
>> On Nov 8, 2019, at 9:32 AM, Indiana Robinson <<a
href="mailto:robinson46176@gmail.com" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">robinson46176@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
>><br>
>> I'm not sure why, neither are grape flavored.<br>
> Ha!<br>
><br>
> I should have been clearer. I was referring to the cup
shaped ones. I have had good success with the disc/dome
plugs. But I have not done nearly as many of his them and my
100% success rate on those is probably sampling error. (-;<br>
><br>
> I have a Mac tool called the “slammer hammer”. Drill a
hole in the old plug, screw in the chuck with a screw, attach
the slammer hammer and it pops right out. So I know I am not
damaging the sides with the removal of the old plug; which I
have seen folks do with drifts, punches and chisels.<br>
><br>
> And like I’ve said, even though I’ve probably installed
35-40 and only had a few leak I could not explain why they
leaked and have been assuming operator error/technique.<br>
><br>
> The continental engines on the Masseys had disc/dome type
but only the Pacer has had such an extensive rebuild that all
the freeze plugs had to be pulled and installed. The 22, colt,
mustang and others I think maybe I’ve only done one or two
corroded leakers on those. I can’t remember doing any others.<br>
><br>
> Thanks for all the continued advice!<br>
><br>
> Spencer<br>
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