[AT] 430V Update

[Paul L Waugh]

I wonder if something as simple as blocking the front wheels and then 
jacking up the rear and setting them on cement blocks, off center. Do 
both rear wheels and you would have the weight of the rear part of 
tractor against the engine.

Paul - IN


On 6/14/2017 4:33 PM, John Hall wrote:
> How hard are you rocking it? Are you using 2 guys? I've helped rock
> tractors with enough force that the front end would start getting light.
> Gear selection is important too. I've never broken anything this way,
> but I did fold up some pushrods trying to tow a stuck tractor. Have you
> tried pressurizing the stuck cylinder? I've literally just plugged my
> air hose in and left it. I did have the compressor cut off in case
> something blew so the compressor wouldn't run non-stop.
>
> John Hall
>
>
>
> On 6/13/2017 11:03 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>> Cylinder #2 continues to drain my penetrating solution and looks good with the inspection camera.   Barely a ridge and the valves look great.
>>
>> Cylinder #1 is clearly the culprit in the stuck engine.   The tractor came to me with WD-40 already sitting in the cylinder and I have simply been adding fluid.  So I haven't been able to use the camera on it.   If it's draining, as opposed to evaporating(my fluid includes Gibbs penetrant which is lightweight and will evaporate) its draining _very_ slowly - like a drop or two a day.
>>
>> I'll probably mop out the fluid soon so I can get the camera in there.   Debris, like mouse nest stuff, isn't evident in the fluid and the exhaust/intake passages looked secure enough that it seems improbable.
>>
>> I tried rocking a rear wheel.   Absolutely no movement.   Tighter than a drum.  I haven't tried anything with more force like chaining the rear wheels and lifting.   After looking at the wheels I'm not sure I can do it without marring them up and lumber won't fit the small cut-out in the wheel disc.
>>
>> Stay tuned.
>>
>> Spencer Yost
>>
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