[AT] JD B resurrection contemplation

Tue Apr 4 09:26:20 PDT 2017

Al,  the Nitrogen will lower the temperature of the piston dramatically
and cause it to shrink, breaking the bond with the cyl. wall.
A hunk of dry ice laid on top of the piston should do the same thing.
At least that is what I think it would do.

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Al Jones
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2017 9:41 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] JD B resurrection contemplation

Cecil, can you elaborate on the liquid Nitrogen thing for removing
stuck pistons?

Al

On Mon, Apr 3, 2017 at 6:11 PM, Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:
> If you have to remove the block w/ stuck pistons, turn it upside down,
> fill the pistons up to the tops of the skirts with liquid Nitrogen,
> Liquid propane works too, I used it until I got a Dewar.  Let it sit
> awhile then try to push the pistons out with a hardwood block or a heavy
> metal spacer that just fits into the bore, and a hydraulic jack.  If you
> have a big press that would be great.
>
> Cecil in OKla
>
>
> On 4/2/2017 9:44 PM, deanvp wrote:
>> John, Excellent advice. I've had good luck filling the cylinders with a 
>> favorite concoction, assuming both valves are closed and rocker arm and 
>> spark plugs removed, and use a long bar tied to the flywheel. Let it soak 
>> for days maybe even weeks. Each day try to turn the flywheel. When it is 
>> ready it will pop loose. Then work the flywheel back and forth until you 
>> can get it to turn several revolutions. Then have someone pull you on the 
>> tractor with it in gear with either Kerosene or Diesel fuel in the 
>> crankcase.  Let the engine turn over and over until it is fully loose.The 
>> thinner fluid helps get the cylinder wall lubricated faster than regular 
>> oil.  Then do what you normally do to start it the first time. It may 
>> exhaust all kinds of crap out the muffler and will probably exhaust a lot 
>> of blue smoke for a long time due to oil rings which may be stuck.  Get 
>> the engine up to operating temperature(200 degrees if possible) and run 
>> it at that temp for at least 15 minutes. Then !
s!
>  hut it down for at least 24 hours and start it again and see if the blue 
> smoke is less.  Repeat as necessary. The heating and cooling will 
> eventually release the stuck rings if you are lucky. I've saved three 2 
> cylinder JD engines this way and have never needed to tear them down. 
> Might be worth a try. Worst case you will have to tear it down.
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy Tablet
>> -------- Original message --------From: John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> 
>> Date: 4/2/17  7:00 PM  (GMT-07:00) To: Antique tractor email discussion 
>> group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com> Subject: Re: [AT] JD B resurrection 
>> contemplation
>> If the cylinders are stuck because they are full of water, then nothing,
>> you are going to have to take it apart and remove the gunk. VERIFY that
>> the valves are not stuck or you WILL break something (been there done
>> that)---ever notice how many hit-and-miss engines have the rocker arm
>> post welded back to the head? The problem with trying to soak a Deere is
>> the amount of fluid it takes to fill up the cylinder, of course if there
>> is a valve open you are going to be filling up something else as well.
>> When we were working on my Titan 10-20 (also a 2 cylinder horizontal
>> engine), I just went to Lowes and bought a gallon of wd-40 and poured
>> half in each cylinder and let it soak until we ever got it in the shop,
>> somewhere between a week and 2 months, I don't remember. I've heard good
>> things about diesel and ATF, besides its cheap. If this turns out to be
>> a worst case scenario of frozen solid, Then pull the engine and safely
>> secure it with the bores upright so you can resort to better penetrating
>> oils such as PB-Blaster or Kroil. I had one so bad once we poured in
>> diesel fuel and set it on fire. Obviously there are many dangers with
>> that and you need to think ahead and have at least one other person
>> around for help. Know before you decide to beat the crap out of the
>> pistons to remove them, you need to make something that has a little bit
>> of clearance in the bore and has a relieved center--remember the center
>> of the piston isn't stuck so you don't need to hit it--you need to hit
>> the skirt/sides, thats the reason for the relieved face. I've heard of
>> using wood but I prefer metal myself. For really bad engines I've heard
>> of dry ice, boiling water,lots of ideas. Lets hope yours is rather
>> "boring" and comes apart easily.
>>
>> Well I got long winded on that, keep us posted please, been a LOOOOOOONG
>> time since anyone here actually took on a restoration like this (if they
>> did I don't recall any posts about it).
>>
>> John Hall
>>
>> On 4/2/2017 5:52 PM, Al Jones wrote:
>>> Now, I know it's been discussed a million times, and everyone has their 
>>> favorite, but what do you think would be the best "julip" to start 
>>> soaking it with?  My notion is to fill the spark plug holes as well as 
>>> fill the main case....I fear there's rust in the crankcase/tranny 
>>> because the gear shift lever is stuck.
>>>
>>> Al
>>>
>>>
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