[AT] JD B resurrection contemplation

Tue Apr 4 10:14:25 PDT 2017

When I was 16 I bought a Cat 20 with a stuck engine. I asked if I could work on it there. I went over after school and took the head off. I tried numerous ways to free it. I got some dry ice and set a chunk on each piston and it free'ed up. I drove it out of there , loaded it on a truck, and farmed with it for a couple of years
--
Sent from myMail for Android Tuesday, 04 April 2017, 09:26AM -0700 from charlie hill  charliehill at embarqmail.com :

>Al,  the Nitrogen will lower the temperature of the piston dramatically
>and cause it to shrink, breaking the bond with the cyl. wall.
>A hunk of dry ice laid on top of the piston should do the same thing.
>At least that is what I think it would do.
>
>Charlie
>
>-----Original Message----- 
>From: Al Jones
>Sent: Monday, April 03, 2017 9:41 PM
>To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>Subject: Re: [AT] JD B resurrection contemplation
>
>Cecil, can you elaborate on the liquid Nitrogen thing for removing
>stuck pistons?
>
>Al
>
>On Mon, Apr 3, 2017 at 6:11 PM, Cecil Bearden < crbearden at copper.net > wrote:
>> If you have to remove the block w/ stuck pistons, turn it upside down,
>> fill the pistons up to the tops of the skirts with liquid Nitrogen,
>> Liquid propane works too, I used it until I got a Dewar.  Let it sit
>> awhile then try to push the pistons out with a hardwood block or a heavy
>> metal spacer that just fits into the bore, and a hydraulic jack.  If you
>> have a big press that would be great.
>>
>> Cecil in OKla
>>
>>
>> On 4/2/2017 9:44 PM, deanvp wrote:
>>> John, Excellent advice. I've had good luck filling the cylinders with a 
>>> favorite concoction, assuming both valves are closed and rocker arm and 
>>> spark plugs removed, and use a long bar tied to the flywheel. Let it soak 
>>> for days maybe even weeks. Each day try to turn the flywheel. When it is 
>>> ready it will pop loose. Then work the flywheel back and forth until you 
>>> can get it to turn several revolutions. Then have someone pull you on the 
>>> tractor with it in gear with either Kerosene or Diesel fuel in the 
>>> crankcase.  Let the engine turn over and over until it is fully loose.The 
>>> thinner fluid helps get the cylinder wall lubricated faster than regular 
>>> oil.  Then do what you normally do to start it the first time. It may 
>>> exhaust all kinds of crap out the muffler and will probably exhaust a lot 
>>> of blue smoke for a long time due to oil rings which may be stuck.  Get 
>>> the engine up to operating temperature(200 degrees if possible) and run 
>>> it at that temp for at least 15 minutes. Then !
>s!
>>  hut it down for at least 24 hours and start it again and see if the blue 
>> smoke is less.  Repeat as necessary. The heating and cooling will 
>> eventually release the stuck rings if you are lucky. I've saved three 2 
>> cylinder JD engines this way and have never needed to tear them down. 
>> Might be worth a try. Worst case you will have to tear it down.
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy Tablet
>>> -------- Original message --------From: John Hall < jtchall at nc.rr.com > 
>>> Date: 4/2/17  7:00 PM  (GMT-07:00) To: Antique tractor email discussion 
>>> group < at at lists.antique-tractor.com > Subject: Re: [AT] JD B resurrection 
>>> contemplation
>>> If the cylinders are stuck because they are full of water, then nothing,
>>> you are going to have to take it apart and remove the gunk. VERIFY that
>>> the valves are not stuck or you WILL break something (been there done
>>> that)---ever notice how many hit-and-miss engines have the rocker arm
>>> post welded back to the head? The problem with trying to soak a Deere is
>>> the amount of fluid it takes to fill up the cylinder, of course if there
>>> is a valve open you are going to be filling up something else as well.
>>> When we were working on my Titan 10-20 (also a 2 cylinder horizontal
>>> engine), I just went to Lowes and bought a gallon of wd-40 and poured
>>> half in each cylinder and let it soak until we ever got it in the shop,
>>> somewhere between a week and 2 months, I don't remember. I've heard good
>>> things about diesel and ATF, besides its cheap. If this turns out to be
>>> a worst case scenario of frozen solid, Then pull the engine and safely
>>> secure it with the bores upright so you can resort to better penetrating
>>> oils such as PB-Blaster or Kroil. I had one so bad once we poured in
>>> diesel fuel and set it on fire. Obviously there are many dangers with
>>> that and you need to think ahead and have at least one other person
>>> around for help. Know before you decide to beat the crap out of the
>>> pistons to remove them, you need to make something that has a little bit
>>> of clearance in the bore and has a relieved center--remember the center
>>> of the piston isn't stuck so you don't need to hit it--you need to hit
>>> the skirt/sides, thats the reason for the relieved face. I've heard of
>>> using wood but I prefer metal myself. For really bad engines I've heard
>>> of dry ice, boiling water,lots of ideas. Lets hope yours is rather
>>> "boring" and comes apart easily.
>>>
>>> Well I got long winded on that, keep us posted please, been a LOOOOOOONG
>>> time since anyone here actually took on a restoration like this (if they
>>> did I don't recall any posts about it).
>>>
>>> John Hall
>>>
>>> On 4/2/2017 5:52 PM, Al Jones wrote:
>>>> Now, I know it's been discussed a million times, and everyone has their 
>>>> favorite, but what do you think would be the best "julip" to start 
>>>> soaking it with?  My notion is to fill the spark plug holes as well as 
>>>> fill the main case....I fear there's rust in the crankcase/tranny 
>>>> because the gear shift lever is stuck.
>>>>
>>>> Al
>>>>
>>>>
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