[AT] Weekend issues

[markagreer]

That's one of my tricks. I'll also back up to the side of the barn bank and use some short ramps I made up.


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-------- Original message --------From: charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com> Date: 9/21/16  11:38 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com> Subject: Re: [AT] Weekend issues 
My favorite way to load a mower in a pickup has always been to
back the truck down in a ditch with the tail gate down until the
tailgate touches the other bank and drive in.  You have to look a
bit to find the right ditch.

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: markagreer
Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2016 11:01 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] Weekend issues

You should not need ramps 10ft long. If your trailer is so high that 10ft 
ramps are needed, you should re-think your setup or find a loading dock.


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com> 
Date: 9/20/16  1:13 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: Antique tractor email discussion 
group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com> Subject: Re: [AT] Weekend issues
Light, strong, cheap.   Pick only two!

A 10" wide, 10' long hunk of dry rough sawn 8/4 white oak weighs 65lb.


SO


On Tue, Sep 20, 2016 at 11:44 AM, Mark Greer <markagreer at embarqmail.com>
wrote:

> If you're anywhere near any small sawmills, have one of them cut some
> White Oak in 8/4 x whatever width you think you need. That will be strong
> enough to load any mower you want to and it will likely be much less $ 
> than
> any store-bought dimensional lumber. Store them out of the weather and
> after they're fairly well dried out, coat them with used oil. They should
> last you many, many years.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dennis Johnson <moscowengnr at outlook.com>
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Mon, 19 Sep 2016 19:40:28 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: Re: [AT] Weekend issues
>
> Farmer,
>
> I agree that there are many solutions to this, engineered wood (but they
> would not like rain or elements), store bought aluminum ramps if I locked
> them in place, steel ramps, and combinations of wood and steel. Custom cut
> from a mill with full 2" thickness might be the best option if I can find 
> a
> mill and take some time to go get them. Maybe it is time to switch to 2 X
> 12 boards but will need to carry them on edge because I do not want to 
> have
> mower offset too much to the side.
>
> What is frustrating is that I have used 2 X 8 or 2 X 10's for 20 plus
> years to load LAWN MOWERS. That is why Cecil's comment about good wood
> going outside the USA got me to thinking that he may have a valid point. I
> switched to 2 X 10's when I got mowers a little bit heavier than what I 
> had
> 20 years ago. Every 5 to 10 years something happens and I need to replace
> the wood. The center support method has some issues on dealing with truck
> and trailer suspension flex. When I have something a bit heavier (like my
> Bolens 1502H) I had done the center support blocks.
>
> I like this method because they are reasonably light, cheap, weather
> resistant if treated. They are quick to put up and down. And I have a post
> welded to the trailer and a hole in one end of the ramp where I can just
> put them down over the pin and drive off with no worry. I have not had
> problems with anyone trying to steal a board.
>
> Another thing that bothers me is that the new board has about 1 inch of
> extra deflection compared to the old 2 X 10 that has aged 3 or 4 years.
>
> Thanks
> Dennis
>
> Sent from my iPad
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