[AT] Weekend issues

[markagreer]

Sorry. Enough replies that I forgot the OP was about a truck. Longer ramps make sense there.


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com> Date: 9/21/16  11:33 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com> Subject: Re: [AT] Weekend issues 
Trailer?  What trailer, Mark?  This entire ramp discussion has been
specifically about loading smaller equipment like mowers into the back of a
pickup truck.  In my own case, the bed of my new F250, which has the
optional HD rear springs (GVWR 9900lb) is well over three feet off the
ground, and I use 12' ramps to give a more gentle slope than 10'.

Floating a bit further off-subject, my 12' ramps purposely have no traction
aid on the surface (e.g. roofing shingles, cleats, etc).  This is because,
in addition to loading mowers and snowblowers with them, I have also found
them quite handy for loading heavy bulky items that are not on wheels.  The
slope of the 12' ramps is low enough that I can use something a bit
slippery like an old nylon sleeping bag, and I can drag remarkably heavy
items up and down.

SO


On Wed, Sep 21, 2016 at 11:01 AM, markagreer <markagreer at embarqmail.com>
wrote:

> You should not need ramps 10ft long. If your trailer is so high that 10ft
>  ramps are needed, you should re-think your setup or find a loading dock.
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> -------- Original message --------From: Stephen Offiler <
> soffiler at gmail.com> Date: 9/20/16  1:13 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: Antique
> tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com> Subject:
> Re: [AT] Weekend issues
> Light, strong, cheap.   Pick only two!
>
> A 10" wide, 10' long hunk of dry rough sawn 8/4 white oak weighs 65lb.
>
>
> SO
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 20, 2016 at 11:44 AM, Mark Greer <markagreer at embarqmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > If you're anywhere near any small sawmills, have one of them cut some
> > White Oak in 8/4 x whatever width you think you need. That will be strong
> > enough to load any mower you want to and it will likely be much less $
> than
> > any store-bought dimensional lumber. Store them out of the weather and
> > after they're fairly well dried out, coat them with used oil. They should
> > last you many, many years.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Dennis Johnson <moscowengnr at outlook.com>
> > To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> >
> > Sent: Mon, 19 Sep 2016 19:40:28 -0400 (EDT)
> > Subject: Re: [AT] Weekend issues
> >
> > Farmer,
> >
> > I agree that there are many solutions to this, engineered wood (but they
> > would not like rain or elements), store bought aluminum ramps if I locked
> > them in place, steel ramps, and combinations of wood and steel. Custom
> cut
> > from a mill with full 2" thickness might be the best option if I can
> find a
> > mill and take some time to go get them. Maybe it is time to switch to 2 X
> > 12 boards but will need to carry them on edge because I do not want to
> have
> > mower offset too much to the side.
> >
> > What is frustrating is that I have used 2 X 8 or 2 X 10's for 20 plus
> > years to load LAWN MOWERS. That is why Cecil's comment about good wood
> > going outside the USA got me to thinking that he may have a valid point.
> I
> > switched to 2 X 10's when I got mowers a little bit heavier than what I
> had
> > 20 years ago. Every 5 to 10 years something happens and I need to replace
> > the wood. The center support method has some issues on dealing with truck
> > and trailer suspension flex. When I have something a bit heavier (like my
> > Bolens 1502H) I had done the center support blocks.
> >
> > I like this method because they are reasonably light, cheap, weather
> > resistant if treated. They are quick to put up and down. And I have a
> post
> > welded to the trailer and a hole in one end of the ramp where I can just
> > put them down over the pin and drive off with no worry. I have not had
> > problems with anyone trying to steal a board.
> >
> > Another thing that bothers me is that the new board has about 1 inch of
> > extra deflection compared to the old 2 X 10 that has aged 3 or 4 years.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Dennis
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
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> >
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