[AT] It's trying, but... now how to prevent the milkshake effect

Sat Sep 17 11:14:53 PDT 2016

Didn't the old John Deere's have a drain cock in the bottom of the oil 
sump to drain off the water.   kerosene seemed to create more water in 
the oil.

Cecil

On 9/17/2016 10:35 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> Scott, here's a tip that would have helped you and anyone
> else who stores equipment outside or suspects water in the
> oil or hydraulic fluid.
>
> If the equipment sits for a while (days, maybe weeks not hours)
> the oil and water will separate.  So if you suspect a problem, before
> you ever start the equipment up, remove the drain plug.  The water
> will be on the bottom and will immediately rush out.  There will be
> some oil and water mixed but often most of the oil will be clear.
> You'll still probably need to change the fluids but it will keep you
> from getting that milk shake.
>
> Unfortunately most of us, me included, never think to do that first.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scott Williams
> Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2016 11:15 PM
> To: 'Antique tractor email discussion group'
> Subject: Re: [AT] It's trying, but... no lift
>
> Thanks for all the replies!
>
> I started the tractor up from cold today and couldn't lift the mower off the
> ground.
>
> I drained out the chocolate milk (WOW) and filled with 8 gallons of
> Traveller "premium" universal tractor trans/hydraulic fluid, from TSC.
> Immediately started it up, and no difference.
>
> A while back I found a collection of files and images, basically some tips
> and information about MF 35/65/135/165 tractor maintenance that was once
> sold on a CD, called "Big Dean's", by a guy who knew a lot about the inner
> workings of these (as some of you do.)  I'll have to see if any of the
> things he mentions help me find the problem.  His first suggestion is to
> remove the side cover (where the dipstick is) and see if there's a problem
> with the linkage to the quadrant controls.  Also says where to look for oil
> leaks inside the case (from a blown o-ring in one case, or from a bad relief
> valve.  Many repairs would need the lift cover removed.  Ouch.
>
> With moving into the new house, as it is still being built (electricians,
> bathroom tile guy, painters, etc. still all over the place) it is hard to
> find time to deal with this.  I spoke with a guy who has a box blade for
> sale.  It's a Woods BSS72, should work for this tractor, but I could REALLY
> use the tractor to help me move it (unload from the van) if I do buy it.
> Can't do that without the lift working.  I'd really like a box blade to fix
> my gravel driveway before winter hits.  As it is, it gets really muddy, and
> has a hole right where it meets the asphalt of the road.  I know there's a
> LOT of gravel under all that dirt (we've had it brought in multiple times.)
>
> I have several workshop manuals, one is a reprint by a guy on eBay (I think)
> that I can't find right now because of the move.  I have a scan of an I&T
> manual (I know) and a scan of a UK 135/148 manual (not very easy to follow,
> lot of talk about "special tools", etc.)  Wish I could find that reprint.
>
> I also have an original operator's manual, which I scanned and put online
> (since I had so much trouble finding one.)
>
> Scott in Penfield NY
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Scott Williams
> Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2016 1:50 AM
> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> Subject: [AT] It's trying, but... no lift
>
> Today I mounted a new set of heavy duty flail blades on my Alamo SHD74 flail
> (thank you, Flail-Master.) This is mounted on my '72 Massey Ferguson 135
> vineyard diesel.  The new blades work great, did a LOT of clearing, but
> after a few hours, the 3 point wouldn't lift the mower.  It would try, but
> it would only lift the front of the mower, and sort of shudder like it was
> trying to lift it (the mower weighs over 900 lbs.)  I have not yet changed
> the hydraulic oil in this machine (not being familiar with changing EIGHT
> GALLONS of oil at a shot... though I'm sure that's nothing compared to some
> of your machines.)  I was reading on this list from last winter, and reading
> about using a cut barrel to catch the oil, and maybe digging a pit for the
> barrel if necessary, so thanks for that info. It's been on my to-do list,
> but I really need to get to it now.
>
>
>
> What else would suddenly cause the 3 point to stop lifting?  It wasn't
> having any trouble when I started, so it seems unlikely to me that I
> suddenly didn't have enough fluid (unless there's a new big leak I don't
> know about.)  Crud or something caused a valve to stick open (or closed)?
> Something worse?  Other than change the fluid, what should I be thinking
> about?
>
>
>
> I suppose there's a chance that there's a lot of water in the oil.  I was
> climbing up and down some really steep banks, could water have gotten
> someplace and caused this?
>
>
>
> Either way, I'll get some oil at TSC and do a change, and see what happens.
>
>
>
> Scott in Penfield NY
>
>
>
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