[AT] It's trying, but... now how to prevent the milkshake effect

charlie hill charliehill at embarqmail.com
Sat Sep 17 11:30:37 PDT 2016


Don't know about that Cecil.  My JD knowledge is limited.
I've drained water out of the hydraulics and even the engine oil
on my A-C tractors.  You just have to be quick putting the
plug back in once the water is gone.  It's amazing how fast that
oil runs out when you don't want it too.  Drop the plug or cross
thread it and you are finished!

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Cecil Bearden
Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2016 2:14 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] It's trying, but... now how to prevent the milkshake 
effect

Didn't the old John Deere's have a drain cock in the bottom of the oil
sump to drain off the water.   kerosene seemed to create more water in
the oil.


Cecil


On 9/17/2016 10:35 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> Scott, here's a tip that would have helped you and anyone
> else who stores equipment outside or suspects water in the
> oil or hydraulic fluid.
>
> If the equipment sits for a while (days, maybe weeks not hours)
> the oil and water will separate.  So if you suspect a problem, before
> you ever start the equipment up, remove the drain plug.  The water
> will be on the bottom and will immediately rush out.  There will be
> some oil and water mixed but often most of the oil will be clear.
> You'll still probably need to change the fluids but it will keep you
> from getting that milk shake.
>
> Unfortunately most of us, me included, never think to do that first.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scott Williams
> Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2016 11:15 PM
> To: 'Antique tractor email discussion group'
> Subject: Re: [AT] It's trying, but... no lift
>
> Thanks for all the replies!
>
> I started the tractor up from cold today and couldn't lift the mower off 
> the
> ground.
>
> I drained out the chocolate milk (WOW) and filled with 8 gallons of
> Traveller "premium" universal tractor trans/hydraulic fluid, from TSC.
> Immediately started it up, and no difference.
>
> A while back I found a collection of files and images, basically some tips
> and information about MF 35/65/135/165 tractor maintenance that was once
> sold on a CD, called "Big Dean's", by a guy who knew a lot about the inner
> workings of these (as some of you do.)  I'll have to see if any of the
> things he mentions help me find the problem.  His first suggestion is to
> remove the side cover (where the dipstick is) and see if there's a problem
> with the linkage to the quadrant controls.  Also says where to look for 
> oil
> leaks inside the case (from a blown o-ring in one case, or from a bad 
> relief
> valve.  Many repairs would need the lift cover removed.  Ouch.
>
> With moving into the new house, as it is still being built (electricians,
> bathroom tile guy, painters, etc. still all over the place) it is hard to
> find time to deal with this.  I spoke with a guy who has a box blade for
> sale.  It's a Woods BSS72, should work for this tractor, but I could 
> REALLY
> use the tractor to help me move it (unload from the van) if I do buy it.
> Can't do that without the lift working.  I'd really like a box blade to 
> fix
> my gravel driveway before winter hits.  As it is, it gets really muddy, 
> and
> has a hole right where it meets the asphalt of the road.  I know there's a
> LOT of gravel under all that dirt (we've had it brought in multiple 
> times.)
>
> I have several workshop manuals, one is a reprint by a guy on eBay (I 
> think)
> that I can't find right now because of the move.  I have a scan of an I&T
> manual (I know) and a scan of a UK 135/148 manual (not very easy to 
> follow,
> lot of talk about "special tools", etc.)  Wish I could find that reprint.
>
> I also have an original operator's manual, which I scanned and put online
> (since I had so much trouble finding one.)
>
> Scott in Penfield NY
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Scott Williams
> Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2016 1:50 AM
> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> Subject: [AT] It's trying, but... no lift
>
> Today I mounted a new set of heavy duty flail blades on my Alamo SHD74 
> flail
> (thank you, Flail-Master.) This is mounted on my '72 Massey Ferguson 135
> vineyard diesel.  The new blades work great, did a LOT of clearing, but
> after a few hours, the 3 point wouldn't lift the mower.  It would try, but
> it would only lift the front of the mower, and sort of shudder like it was
> trying to lift it (the mower weighs over 900 lbs.)  I have not yet changed
> the hydraulic oil in this machine (not being familiar with changing EIGHT
> GALLONS of oil at a shot... though I'm sure that's nothing compared to 
> some
> of your machines.)  I was reading on this list from last winter, and 
> reading
> about using a cut barrel to catch the oil, and maybe digging a pit for the
> barrel if necessary, so thanks for that info. It's been on my to-do list,
> but I really need to get to it now.
>
>
>
> What else would suddenly cause the 3 point to stop lifting?  It wasn't
> having any trouble when I started, so it seems unlikely to me that I
> suddenly didn't have enough fluid (unless there's a new big leak I don't
> know about.)  Crud or something caused a valve to stick open (or closed)?
> Something worse?  Other than change the fluid, what should I be thinking
> about?
>
>
>
> I suppose there's a chance that there's a lot of water in the oil.  I was
> climbing up and down some really steep banks, could water have gotten
> someplace and caused this?
>
>
>
> Either way, I'll get some oil at TSC and do a change, and see what 
> happens.
>
>
>
> Scott in Penfield NY
>
>
>
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