[AT] It's trying, but... now how to prevent the milkshake effect

[charlie hill]

Scott, here's a tip that would have helped you and anyone
else who stores equipment outside or suspects water in the
oil or hydraulic fluid.

If the equipment sits for a while (days, maybe weeks not hours)
the oil and water will separate.  So if you suspect a problem, before
you ever start the equipment up, remove the drain plug.  The water
will be on the bottom and will immediately rush out.  There will be
some oil and water mixed but often most of the oil will be clear.
You'll still probably need to change the fluids but it will keep you
from getting that milk shake.

Unfortunately most of us, me included, never think to do that first.

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Scott Williams
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2016 11:15 PM
To: 'Antique tractor email discussion group'
Subject: Re: [AT] It's trying, but... no lift

Thanks for all the replies!

I started the tractor up from cold today and couldn't lift the mower off the
ground.

I drained out the chocolate milk (WOW) and filled with 8 gallons of
Traveller "premium" universal tractor trans/hydraulic fluid, from TSC.
Immediately started it up, and no difference.

A while back I found a collection of files and images, basically some tips
and information about MF 35/65/135/165 tractor maintenance that was once
sold on a CD, called "Big Dean's", by a guy who knew a lot about the inner
workings of these (as some of you do.)  I'll have to see if any of the
things he mentions help me find the problem.  His first suggestion is to
remove the side cover (where the dipstick is) and see if there's a problem
with the linkage to the quadrant controls.  Also says where to look for oil
leaks inside the case (from a blown o-ring in one case, or from a bad relief
valve.  Many repairs would need the lift cover removed.  Ouch.

With moving into the new house, as it is still being built (electricians,
bathroom tile guy, painters, etc. still all over the place) it is hard to
find time to deal with this.  I spoke with a guy who has a box blade for
sale.  It's a Woods BSS72, should work for this tractor, but I could REALLY
use the tractor to help me move it (unload from the van) if I do buy it.
Can't do that without the lift working.  I'd really like a box blade to fix
my gravel driveway before winter hits.  As it is, it gets really muddy, and
has a hole right where it meets the asphalt of the road.  I know there's a
LOT of gravel under all that dirt (we've had it brought in multiple times.)

I have several workshop manuals, one is a reprint by a guy on eBay (I think)
that I can't find right now because of the move.  I have a scan of an I&T
manual (I know) and a scan of a UK 135/148 manual (not very easy to follow,
lot of talk about "special tools", etc.)  Wish I could find that reprint.

I also have an original operator's manual, which I scanned and put online
(since I had so much trouble finding one.)

Scott in Penfield NY

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Scott Williams
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2016 1:50 AM
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: [AT] It's trying, but... no lift

Today I mounted a new set of heavy duty flail blades on my Alamo SHD74 flail
(thank you, Flail-Master.) This is mounted on my '72 Massey Ferguson 135
vineyard diesel.  The new blades work great, did a LOT of clearing, but
after a few hours, the 3 point wouldn't lift the mower.  It would try, but
it would only lift the front of the mower, and sort of shudder like it was
trying to lift it (the mower weighs over 900 lbs.)  I have not yet changed
the hydraulic oil in this machine (not being familiar with changing EIGHT
GALLONS of oil at a shot... though I'm sure that's nothing compared to some
of your machines.)  I was reading on this list from last winter, and reading
about using a cut barrel to catch the oil, and maybe digging a pit for the
barrel if necessary, so thanks for that info. It's been on my to-do list,
but I really need to get to it now.



What else would suddenly cause the 3 point to stop lifting?  It wasn't
having any trouble when I started, so it seems unlikely to me that I
suddenly didn't have enough fluid (unless there's a new big leak I don't
know about.)  Crud or something caused a valve to stick open (or closed)?
Something worse?  Other than change the fluid, what should I be thinking
about?



I suppose there's a chance that there's a lot of water in the oil.  I was
climbing up and down some really steep banks, could water have gotten
someplace and caused this?



Either way, I'll get some oil at TSC and do a change, and see what happens.



Scott in Penfield NY



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