[AT] more old balers

Sun Jun 19 07:29:22 PDT 2016

I have no experience with the 4020, but I do have a co-worker that uses a 454 for round bales in the mountains.  He says that thing has no trouble pulling the hills or stopping it with a big heavy round bale.  He says you have to be careful where you drop the bale in the mountains.   You can start a bale avalanche. (-:

My gut reaction is one is overkill, the other is under kill.  I would try the 454 first, and use that if you like it. Fuel savings alone would be worth the experiment.

Spencer Yost

> On Jun 19, 2016, at 9:27 AM, Ken Knierim <ken.knierim at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I think the Wisconsin on that was a VH4D, rated at 30 horsepower, and got
> loud under load as it only had a baffle, not a muffler.
> 
> the 4020 should have no problems powering it. No experience with a 454.
> 
> Ken in AZ
> 
>> On Sun, Jun 19, 2016 at 4:59 AM, John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks Ken, glad to hear you had good luck with it. What size engine was
>> on it, a 4 cylinder? My Super 66 has a 2 cylinder and we know when we
>> get to pushing a little hard as the governors really make it bark and
>> the belts start to squeal. The baler I am looking at is PTO drive, we'll
>> either pull it with a 454 IH or 4020 Deere.
>> 
>> John Hall
>> 
>> 
>>> On 6/18/2016 4:32 PM, Ken Knierim wrote:
>>> We ran a 282 for years (eastern Montana) and had good service. I heard a
>>> lot of folks cuss Wisconsins but the one on this 282 always started and
>> ran
>>> fine if you primed the fuel pump (manual lever on the pump). Run good
>>> twine, make sure you have a supply of shear pins and maintain it and
>> it'll
>>> do well. (I think my uncle still has it after 40 years) They are heavy;
>> it
>>> was a bit much for the 9N to drag around fast. The JD A did well because
>>> it's got a wide torque band and we could throttle back for heavy
>> windrows.
>>> We used it like a variable speed to get somewhere between 18 and 22
>> strokes
>>> per bale (if I remember. it's been 30 years...). That baler tended to
>>> either shake the hitches loose or OFF the tractor it was coupled to.
>> (the A
>>> never fully recovered).
>>> 
>>> One failure we saw repeatedly was it would break the axle on the heavy
>>> side. This was because it had a dual tire (factory option maybe?) on that
>>> side to prevent it from sinking into soft ground and it end-loaded
>>> (cantilevered?) the shaft and broke it from time to time (I remember at
>>> least twice; once I about ate the steering wheel and the 9N front came
>> WAY
>>> up before I clutched). If you break the axle and drop the baler the cage
>>> under the needles can get bent. We always checked it to make sure it
>> didn't
>>> get too far out of line. And if it's been sitting awhile you may want to
>>> make sure the plunger block/interlock on the needles is free and smooth.
>> It
>>> blocks the plunger if the needles are cycling and if it doesn't pull back
>>> when they're done the main flywheel shear pin dies. There's also a shear
>>> pin on the knotter drive and they're different sizes. We would hit heavy
>>> enough material (or a tree branch!) or it would work loose occasionally
>> and
>>> we would loose a main flywheel shear pin about weekly under heavy
>> service.
>>> We kept the toolbox stocked. I'd look to see if someone has used regular
>>> bolts rather than genuine parts (NH's were black oxide and had a
>>> distinctive locknut). We were warned not to use regular bolts because it
>>> might take out the plunger gearbox.
>>> 
>>> In retrospect I would probably look at a that axle and use a wider single
>>> rim these days and run a lower tire pressure to absorb rough ground
>> impact.
>>> Watch for standard wear parts (we used it enough we had to replace pickup
>>> teeth and guards and some idlers several times) and grease it regularly
>>> (Dad's mantra). Not sure about parts availability but I ran it when
>> fairly
>>> new. I don't recall replacing much beyond a few wear parts unless we fed
>> it
>>> a badger hole or some wood. Get a manual though; it'll tell you how to
>> set
>>> up the timing if you have to replace a chain or something and you want
>> that
>>> right.
>>> 
>>> They (uncles and Dad) had a tractor-pulled New Holland bale wagon and we
>>> made a fair number of bales per year.
>>> 
>>> I can still hear that Wisconsin wailing and the kaLUMPachikaLUMPachika of
>>> the plungers and tines. :)
>>> 
>>> Hope this helps.
>>> 
>>> Ken in AZ
>>> 
>>>> On Sat, Jun 18, 2016 at 10:39 AM, John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> I guess this is kind of on topic since these are 40+ years old.
>>>> 
>>>> Went today to look at a 273 New Holland baler. Not too bad but mighty
>>>> rusty, been sitting outside. Price is a little high if you ask me. Next
>>>> stop I looked at a 282 New Holland--big son of a gun. My understanding
>>>> is it has a larger bale chamber and is supposedly a big capacity baler.
>>>> Has hydraulic bale tensioner--never seen one around here. Also has close
>>>> together pick-up fingers. Its shed kept, off of a dairy farm. Hasn't
>>>> been ran in 20 years or so, alttle rusty from sitting. Anything I should
>>>> watch out for on the 282?
>>>> 
>>>> John Hall
>>>> 
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