[AT] Stuck JD B

[Dean VP]

Ray,

I concur with Cecil's suggestions.  Worrying about the state of the rod bearings is similar to fencing
with windmills at this stage until you get it loose. I agree with getting the combustion chamber as
full as possible with the liquid concoction to break through the rusted rings. There are a lot of
recipes for this fluid. I happen to like a 50:50 mix of diesel fuel and Automatic Transmission fluid.
Or substitute the ATF with brake fluid. Kriol oil is often recommended.  I too recommend making sure
that there is not a stuck valve before you start trying to tune the flywheel. I take off the Tappet
cover and verify that each valve is loose before even considering turning the flywheel. Really bad
things happen if a valve is stuck closed or partially closed.  Then an extreme amount of patience is
needed why the magic formula is soaking in the combustion chamber. I put a bar to the flywheel and
each day it soaks I try to move the flywheel one way or the other. It may take weeks. But once you get
any movement at all then you can gently rock the flywheel back and forth until you get a couple full
revolutions.  Then with the plugs out and Diesel Fuel or Kerosene in the crankcase I get another
tractor and pull the stuck tractor in reverse gear with the clutch engaged in reverse and cause the
pistons and the rest of the engine to loosen up and get fully lubricated before you try to start it.
Watch to see if any oil pressure shows on the oil pressure gauge during this process. Some of the
noises coming from the engine as the rings slide past the spot they were rusted to the cylinder walls
will be a bit disconcerting. But there isn't much you can do about that unless you want to tear down
the whole engine and home the cylinder walls.  Some of the rings may be stuck and if the cylinders a
not an equal bore from top to bottom considerable resistance may be encountered. 

But.....  let's say all of the above is successful and you now want to try to start the tractor by
pulling it or hand starting it.  And let's say you get it running, although poorly, a bunch of
internal stuff has to happen to run properly. The valves probably need to reseat and the rings all
need to be loosen up so they provide compression and an oil block. This too may take some run time to
accomplish their proper function.  Getting the tractor to run at or near 200 degrees for a long period
of time will speed up the rehabilitation process. Closing the shutters, if you can get them to move,
is good and then I also cover the whole grill area to get the tractor to run at normal operating
temperature. There are no thermostats in a JD of this era so one has to control the sir flow through
the radiator to get them warmed up. Running them at 200 degrees or so will be the best thing you can
do to get the engine cleaned up. Use only non-detergent oil in the crankcase unless you know it is
really clean with no sludge. Detergent oil works too good on these old dirty engines. Yes, it will
clean the insides up but at a risk of loosening some sludge up that might plug an oil line somewhere.
Worst case at a bearing. I start by putting new non-detergent oil in the crankcase and a new oil
filter. Then after some run hours I drain the oil out and change filters. Depending on what the oil
looks like on exit you may want to do this step over.  If I am concerned about how dirt things look I
remove the cover over the crankcase and manually remove all the sludge at the bottom of the case and
rinse with kerosene or diesel fuel.  Only when I think I've done my best to get the inside of the
engine clean will I consider using detergent oil. And I change oil filters each time I change the oil
because all the gunk is supposed to be caught in the filter.  With the price of oil and filters you
may think this procedure is a bit expensive, just think of what the expense will be if an oil line or
channel  gets plugged. 

Good Luck.  There is a real joy when the first movement of the flywheel occurs and then the next is
when it starts running the first time. To me they are the most fun of the whole hobby. All the fancy
paint jobs and sizzle don't even come close to that for me. 


Dean VP
Snohomish, WA

If we can employ guards with guns to protect money, we can and should employ guards with guns to
protect people. Bernard Goldberg.

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
Cecil R Bearden
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 12:44 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] Stuck JD B

Ray:
  Until you know how bad the crank is you don't need to worry about the 
bearings.  Just remember where every shim came out of when you take it 
apart...   If you can get a gallon of Marvel Mystery Oil and a Quart of 
Acetone, then mix them up and pour the mixture into the spark plug 
holes, the exhaust pipe  and the  intake  Make a extension to get the 
liquid into all  the upper passages.  Be sure the cylinders are full, 
even if you have to open a valve to get the liquid to the top of the 
cylinder.   Then, if you get the crankshaft to rocking, check to make 
sure the camshaft is turning.   I had an early JD many years ago and it 
was stuck.   I hauled it to OKC from Louisiana.  We got the crank to 
move some, and had liquid in the cylinders with the plugs out.   We 
pulled it with another tractor and when I let out the clutch, I broke 
the entire upper housing that holds the camshaft.  Never did get that 
tractor running.  So make sure everything is moving before putting any 
real torque on the crankshaft...

Cecil in OKla


On 10/14/2015 1:11 PM, Ray Trimble wrote:
> I have a B with the engine stuck s/n 93620. I am researching how to go about freeing it.
> It look like the way to go is to remove the block with the pistons with it. What bothers me
> is the parts manual shows inserts bearing for the connecting rods, only shims. This leads
> to fear this I may be dealing with a babbit bearing, which I know nothing about. First I don't know
anyone
> who pours them and to get that done the crankshaft would have to be removed. I don't
> want to do that, I remember posts yeard ago about the flywheel never being able to keep tight.
>
> Can anyone inform me what I am faceting?
>
> Thanks
> Ray
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at


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