[AT] More Ford Jubilee Adventures

Sat Aug 8 16:47:42 PDT 2015

So this just gets sillier.

I installed the brand new looking solenoid on the tractor as mentioned in
another thread and got not even a click. I tested it and the starter switch
and it turns out I had a bad "new" solenoid saved for all these years.

I go to get the ATV to pull the tractor backwards a few feet in high gear
to free the starter, assuming it is stuck. Of course the ATV battery is
dead and whatnot but that's a different story. I find a lot of rope and
simply pull the tractor with my truck. (Bush-hog is hitched at the time).

Try the starter again and nothing from the solenoid so I track one down at
O Reilly's and install and it works and the tractor spins but there is NO
SPARK.

I reset/recheck the new points gap and test all my wiring connections with
my flukemeter. Still no spark. I go get the MGB condenser again and install
it and lo and behold it fires again.

So, I got a bad condenser from NAPA of all places. The parts house I
normally depend on.

I said screw it and ordered a Pertronix 1244A ignition system and their
40,000 volt coil. Life is too short for this cheap parts rodeo.

Warren

On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 9:12 PM, Mogrits <mogrits at gmail.com> wrote:

> So I put a new correct condenser in the Jubilee and gapped new points to
> .025. Hit the starter button and the starter side terminal of the solenoid
> threw sparks. I figure this is one of several things: The starter is in a
> dead spot or stuck engaged and I'll have to roll the tractor a bit in gear
> to free it; the starter is bad;  the wires have corroded connections
> (likely) and I need to clean them; or, my solenoid crapped out by
> coincidence. Whatever the cause it got too dark to fool with it and I'll
> have to get back to it later this week.I have a solenoid on hand from the
> last time the starter got stuck and I thought the solenoid had quit. It
> clicks when it sparks so I think it's doing it's part.
>
> Warren
>
> On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 6:47 PM, charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> It's probably a timing issue.  I've only installed one Petronix and that
>> was on a 5 hp B&S but when I put it back together it wouldn't hit a lick.
>> I did everything I could think of and finally went and talked to a B&S
>> dealer friend of mine.  He called his tech rep.  The guy immediately told
>> me I didn't have the flywheel nut tight enough and it was throwing the
>> timing
>> off.  I told him it was as tight as I knew how to get it.  He told me to
>> put
>> a
>> box end wrench on the nut and hit the other end of the wrench hard with at
>> least
>> a 2 lb hammer.  I did.  I was convinced that I had not tightened the nut
>> at
>> all but
>> when I pulled the cord she fired and ran.
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Dan Glass
>> Sent: Monday, August 03, 2015 4:48 PM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] More Ford Jubilee Adventures
>>
>> I haven't seen any guide on that.  Several people say to just widen the
>> gap.  I changed to a resistor type plug in an old Chevy two ton and it
>> made worlds of difference.
>>
>> On 8/3/2015 3:15 PM, Brian VanDragt wrote:
>> > How do you know what plugs to change to?  Are you just going to a hotter
>> > or colder heat range?
>> > Brian
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> >
>> > From: "Dan Glass" <dglass at numail.org>
>> > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
>> > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>> > Sent: Monday, August 3, 2015 1:04:59 PM
>> > Subject: Re: [AT] More Ford Jubilee Adventures
>> >
>> > I have had to do it on about half of the conversions but I don't think
>> > it would hurt on any of them.
>> >
>> > On 8/3/2015 12:37 PM, Cecil R Bearden wrote:
>> >> So far I have not had to change any plugs in the ones I converted.
>> >>
>> >> Cecil in OKla
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> On 8/3/2015 11:24 AM, Dan Glass wrote:
>> >>> I have always found Pertronix ignitions to be great but they do need
>> the
>> >>> right coil and you will often have to change the plugs from the
>> original
>> >>> to get the best performance.  If the plugs are wrong the engine will
>> >>> still run good but will not have great power and they never mentioned
>> >>> that in the ads.
>> >>>
>> >>> On 8/3/2015 11:29 AM, Mogrits wrote:
>> >>>> Thanks for the replies. I'm glad to know the wrong condenser could
>> keep
>> >>>> it
>> >>>> from running though it fires. I "reserved" the right points and
>> >>>> condenser
>> >>>> from my local NAPA and will pick them up today.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Of all the parts houses, NAPA is the only one I can find that lets
>> you
>> >>>> search tractor parts by year and make. The other houses have them,
>> but
>> >>>> you
>> >>>> must have a part number as they can't search by tractor.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> I've heard nothing but good stuff about the Pertronix system, going
>> way
>> >>>> back to my MGB. As infrequently as some of my stuff gets run, I think
>> >>>> it
>> >>>> will be a good investment, as every time I go to use something I end
>> up
>> >>>> polishing points at a minimum.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> As to the solenoid and what not- I see a value in that system but it
>> >>>> also
>> >>>> overcomplicates a very simple system that works fine except for (my)
>> >>>> operator error. After this adventure I doubt I will forget the key
>> >>>> again.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Thanks again,
>> >>>> Warren
>> >>>>
>> >>>> On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:01 AM, Steve W. <swilliams268 at frontier.com
>> >
>> >>>> wrote:
>> >>>>
>> >>>>> Bo Hinch wrote:
>> >>>>>> You are correct Cecil , BUT , if you leave the switch on , it will
>> >>>>>> ALL be
>> >>>>>> toasted again , which is what started the problems in the
>> beginning .
>> >>>>>> Bo Hinch in S/W Louisiana
>> >>>>>>
>> >>>>> The Pertronix kit is a GREAT item for older engines. I've used the
>> >>>>> trigger unit to build ignition systems for other engines as well.
>> >>>>> Currently adapting one to fit an ancient Onan on a welder.
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> --
>> >>>>> Steve W.
>> >>>>>
>> >>> _______________________________________________
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