[AT] MF 135

[drupert at seanet.com]

Will address these two questions tomorrow -

Dudley


> Dudley,  this is a question more than a suggestion because I just don't
> know
> much
> about  those engines.  I'm wondering if you could use plasti-gauge,
> tighten
> it down
> once on the plasti-gage, pull it back apart to see how much shim you need,
> put in the
> correct shims the first time and be done with it?
>
> Charlie
>
>
> ----Original Message-----
> From: Tom
> Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 7:46 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] MF 135
>
> Can I ask why you didn't shim the rods to the crank while it was out?
>
> Tom
>
> --- On Sat, 6/4/13, drupert at seanet.com <drupert at seanet.com> wrote:
>
>
> I too find shims guesswork and a pain.  I am currently in the process of
> overhauling a 1952 JD Model B engine.  The crank has been reworked and is
> back in and the Block has been bored 90 thousands. The Rods have been
> checked, new Bushings installed and are now ready to be attach to the
> Crank.  However, the Rod Bearings(Babbitt) are adjusted via shims and
> therein is my excuse for procrastination.  I hate having to reach in the
> small access hole to tighten a Rod only to learn that I have to loosen it
> to add/substract shims and then drop some/all of the shims from one side
> of the Rod into the bottom of the engine only to not be able to reach
> under the Crank to retrieve all of those tiny brass shims.
>
>
> Dudley
>
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