[AT] Farmall C123 block cracks

[Cecil R Bearden]

Devcon is really the best.   It is expensive.   JB weld will work, but 
the block needs to be laying down because JB weld runs too easily.  I 
have used all of them.

Cecil in oKla


On 7/24/2012 6:58 PM, Dave Rotigel wrote:
> http://www.itw-devcon.co.uk/index.php?/devcon_mro/emergency_repair_products/devcon_hvac_epoxy_repair_putty_f/ is one that I would recommend, but there are many others. See: https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ie=UTF-8#hl=en&gs_nf=1&gs_mss=high%20strengthepoxy%20compound&tok=OowKh0qX_pTKprPOWuUSYQ&pq=epoxy%20compound&cp=14&gs_id=1p&xhr=t&q=high+strength+epoxy+compound&pf=p&sclient=psy-ab&oq=high+strength+epoxy+compound&gs_l=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=9c54f1165b8e8fb1&biw=1920&bih=889
> 	Dave
>
> On Jul 24, 2012, at 7:45 PM, charlie hill wrote:
>
>> Grant go online and look at Lock and Stitch repair of cast iron.   Also,
>> it's hard to tell without seeing what you have so I won't comment on the
>> life of your
>> block but I'll tell you this.  I worked for a guy in the 70's that had
>> trucks with 8V71 Detroit diesels in them.  One of them threw a rod through
>> the side of the
>> block and knocked a hole the size of a grapefruit through it.  They repaired
>> it with screen wire and epoxy that a guy got from the local DuPont plant.
>> That was
>> before the days of JB Weld.  The truck was put back together and that engine
>> ran another 100,000 miles or so that I know of before the truck was
>> eventually wrecked.  I like JB Weld fine but there are some stronger epoxy
>> compounds out there.  Right off hand I can't tell you the name of one but I
>> know they exist.
>> If you don't care about the appearance of that block, drill the ends of the
>> cracks and V it out like others suggested.   Then grind or sand the block
>> down for a couple of inches around the crack.  Fill the v'd out crack, then
>> put a layer over the sanded area and imbed a piece of screen wire mesh or
>> fiberglass cloth in it
>> and put another layer of epoxy on top.  That will add some strength to the
>> block around the crack.
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Grant Brians
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2012 7:08 PM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] Farmall C123 block cracks
>>
>> Well, I suspect I will need to either strengthen or replace this block.
>> There are parallel cracks on both sides of the block for a total of 3 cracks
>> that are each over 9 inches long in the horizontal area in the water jacket
>> above the crankcase.... I hope that all will work fine. Once again I think I
>> could use a parts tractor, sigh.
>>          Grant Brians
>>          Hollister,California vegetable farmer
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]On Behalf Of Ben Wagner
>> Sent: Monday, July 23, 2012 5:45 PM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] Farmall C123 block cracks
>>
>>
>> Grant, I did a similar job with that wonderful JB Weld on my A (C-113).
>> It has held for about a year now with no leaks; it was about 2 inches
>> long under the carburetor, a weak spot in the block from what I hear.
>>
>> How long were your leaks?
>>
>> Ben Wagner
>>
>>
>> On 7/23/2012 8:25 PM, Grant Brians wrote:
>>> I think this tractor is ok, just JBweld the water jacket cracks. It is on
>> a
>>> Farmall 100. The concern is if there is enough strength front to back to
>>> avaoid re-cracking. Any thoughts?
>>>               Grant Brians
>>>               Hollister,California vegetable farmer
>>>
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