[AT] Farmall C123 block cracks

[Dave Rotigel]

http://www.itw-devcon.co.uk/index.php?/devcon_mro/emergency_repair_products/devcon_hvac_epoxy_repair_putty_f/ is one that I would recommend, but there are many others. See: https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ie=UTF-8#hl=en&gs_nf=1&gs_mss=high%20strengthepoxy%20compound&tok=OowKh0qX_pTKprPOWuUSYQ&pq=epoxy%20compound&cp=14&gs_id=1p&xhr=t&q=high+strength+epoxy+compound&pf=p&sclient=psy-ab&oq=high+strength+epoxy+compound&gs_l=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=9c54f1165b8e8fb1&biw=1920&bih=889
	Dave

On Jul 24, 2012, at 7:45 PM, charlie hill wrote:

> Grant go online and look at Lock and Stitch repair of cast iron.   Also, 
> it's hard to tell without seeing what you have so I won't comment on the 
> life of your
> block but I'll tell you this.  I worked for a guy in the 70's that had 
> trucks with 8V71 Detroit diesels in them.  One of them threw a rod through 
> the side of the
> block and knocked a hole the size of a grapefruit through it.  They repaired 
> it with screen wire and epoxy that a guy got from the local DuPont plant. 
> That was
> before the days of JB Weld.  The truck was put back together and that engine 
> ran another 100,000 miles or so that I know of before the truck was 
> eventually wrecked.  I like JB Weld fine but there are some stronger epoxy 
> compounds out there.  Right off hand I can't tell you the name of one but I 
> know they exist.
> If you don't care about the appearance of that block, drill the ends of the 
> cracks and V it out like others suggested.   Then grind or sand the block 
> down for a couple of inches around the crack.  Fill the v'd out crack, then 
> put a layer over the sanded area and imbed a piece of screen wire mesh or 
> fiberglass cloth in it
> and put another layer of epoxy on top.  That will add some strength to the 
> block around the crack.
> 
> Charlie
> 
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: Grant Brians
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2012 7:08 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] Farmall C123 block cracks
> 
> Well, I suspect I will need to either strengthen or replace this block.
> There are parallel cracks on both sides of the block for a total of 3 cracks
> that are each over 9 inches long in the horizontal area in the water jacket
> above the crankcase.... I hope that all will work fine. Once again I think I
> could use a parts tractor, sigh.
>         Grant Brians
>         Hollister,California vegetable farmer
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]On Behalf Of Ben Wagner
> Sent: Monday, July 23, 2012 5:45 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] Farmall C123 block cracks
> 
> 
> Grant, I did a similar job with that wonderful JB Weld on my A (C-113).
> It has held for about a year now with no leaks; it was about 2 inches
> long under the carburetor, a weak spot in the block from what I hear.
> 
> How long were your leaks?
> 
> Ben Wagner
> 
> 
> On 7/23/2012 8:25 PM, Grant Brians wrote:
>> I think this tractor is ok, just JBweld the water jacket cracks. It is on
> a
>> Farmall 100. The concern is if there is enough strength front to back to
>> avaoid re-cracking. Any thoughts?
>>              Grant Brians
>>              Hollister,California vegetable farmer
>> 
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