[Farmall] Restoration

Wed May 25 07:09:54 PDT 2011

Bob,

I am going to pick up a rattle can for the hard to reach areas so I don't
get runs from over spray.  Thanks for the heads up though.

Jerry

On Wed, May 25, 2011 at 12:37 AM, Robert L. Holtzer
<rholtzer at earthlink.net>wrote:

> On 5/24/2011 9:14 PM, Barney Van De Weert wrote:
> > I don't know the brand of sprayer, I googled the painting websie.
> >   Barney Van De Weert
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Jerry Bossard<jerry.bossard at gmail.com>
> > To: Farmall/IHC mailing list<farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Tue, May 24, 2011 10:48:07 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Farmall] Restoration
> >
> > Barney,
> >
> > Thank you for all your information and experience.  What brand of sprayer
> > did you use?  You don't happen to remember where you got the spray gun
> > settings from, do you?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Jerry
> >
> >
> >
> > On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 7:30 PM, Barney Van De Weert<bbvande at yahoo.com
> >wrote:
> >
> >> Use a high volume low pressure gun, I bought a set of 3, primer, paint
> and
> >> touch
> >> up for about $80.00. Make sure you use a good drier on the air line.
> Also a
> >> thick layer of paint is not desirable, get the spray pattern set and
> spray
> >> until
> >> you get the coat up to a shine and get away befoe you get tempted to hit
> it
> >> one
> >> more time. If you don't get it up to a shine you'll get an orange peel
> >> effect,
> >> any more and you will get runs.
> >>    Barney Van De Weert
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Jerry Bossard<jerry.bossard at gmail.com>
> >> To: Farmall/IHC mailing list<farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> >> Sent: Tue, May 24, 2011 1:58:41 PM
> >> Subject: Re: [Farmall] Restoration
> >>
> >> Bobcurrie,
> >>
> >> Thanks for the information.  I'm mainly going to use the primer for the
> >> areas that need a little sanding and mainly just repaint the entire
> >> tractor.
> >> However, there are some parts that I need to wire brush to the bare
> metal
> >> because of small rust spots.  The primer will be used very little, just
> >> curious to know what others have done.  I think I have decided to spray
> >> paint the entire tractor with a spray gun and compressor.  I may brush a
> >> few
> >> areas, but in the interest of time and since it will be my work tractor,
> I
> >> am more interested in getting a couple of good coats of paint on for
> extra
> >> durability.
> >>
> >> Thanks again for your wealth of information.
> >>
> >> Jerry
> >>
> >> On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 1:24 PM, Bob Currie<tracturs at gmail.com>  wrote:
> >>
> >>> General rule of thumb Jerry is that you get what you pay for. It might
> >> help
> >>> to read the fine print on the can. My guess is that the  restoration
> >> series
> >>> paint has a touch more pigment in the mix. As far as primer goes, I
> kind
> >> of
> >>> echo Mike comments. Why are you using primer? Did you take all the old
> >>> paint
> >>> off, or just wire brushed or sand it down? There are different kinds of
> >>> primer, regardless of what color you choose. Filler or "sanding" primer
> >> is
> >>> usually marked on the can and I mostly see it in red. It is very
> sandable
> >>> and is used to fill minor sanding scratches and the like so your color
> >>> coats
> >>> will be nice and smooth and shiny.  If that is not a concern to you,
> then
> >> a
> >>> good non sandable red primer would be fine.  I usually pay a little
> more
> >>> and
> >>> after a good sanding or prep job, I like to use an etching primer. It
> >> does
> >>> what a primer is supposed to do, that being add a basic coat to the
> metal
> >>> that will help the finish coats of paint adhere and flow out nice and
> >>> smooth. That rule doesn't apply to the casted parts you might paint,
> >> since
> >>> they aren't smooth to start with. I've had very decent luck painting
> >> those
> >>> surfaces with no sanding, just wire brushing or sand blasting, and
> using
> >> a
> >>> good paint brush. The paint will flow out fairly good and you won't see
> >> any
> >>> brush marks. So....good luck on your project and let us know how it's
> >>> working out.
> >>>
> >>> bobcurrie
> >>> Greenwood, CA
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> ----- Original Message -----
> >>> From: "Jerry Bossard"<jerry.bossard at gmail.com>
> >>> To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list"<farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> >>> Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2011 10:01 AM
> >>> Subject: Re: [Farmall] Restoration
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> Does anyone know the difference between Valspar Restoration Series
> >>> Tractor
> >>>> &
> >>>> Implement Finish versus Valspar Tractor&  Implement Finish paints?  Is
> >>> one
> >>>> really better than the other?  The price difference at Tractor Supply
> >> is
> >>>> $53.00 for restoration series and $37.00 for the other.  $16.00
> >>>> difference!
> >>>> Both are High Gloss.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Thanks.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 11:38 AM, Jerry Bossard
> >>>> <jerry.bossard at gmail.com>wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Carl,
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Thank you for that information!  That helps a bunch.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Thanks,
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Jerry
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 11:20 AM,<szabelsk at gdls.com>  wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> The red primer is usually for rusty metal, not clean metal. Read the
> >>>>>> label
> >>>>>> and see it that's what it says.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Also, a gray primer usually requires fewer top coats of red to
> obtain
> >> a
> >>>>>> good deep color.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Red is a hard color to paint with. The pigment is usually thin and
> >> lets
> >>>>>> the primer underneath show through. Colors other than gray seem to
> >>> bleed
> >>>>>> through red pretty easily.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Carl Szabelski
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
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> The Case-IH spray can paint works about as good as a more elaborate
> spray system.  This is particularly true in tight spots.  On the other
> hand, doing tanks and hoods, a bulk sprayer of some sort makes life easier!
>
> Bob Holtzer
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