[Farmall] McCormick-Deering 10-20 Engine Serial Number

Mon Aug 1 05:51:15 PDT 2011

My apologies that I couldn't reply back sooner.  I've had a rather eventful
last couple of days!

The 10-20 was a 1923 model on full steel.  It has sat outside since 2007,
painted, in front of a museum in WV.  Honestly, I doubt if it runs anymore.
The owner said that it ran when he parked it; they drained the gas out and
left it.  However, water has taken over the fuel tank, and children love to
play with the engine crank.  The combination doesn't sound good!  I could
turn it over with the crank, but something was grinding loudly around the
clutch area.  The serial tag is AWOL, and I didn't see the number like Milo
sent.  The owner quoted 1923 as mentioned by the previous owner.  I told the
owner that I was surprised someone hadn't stolen parts off of the tractor.
It has a good complete magneto, original gauges, and from the outside the
carb looks complete.

I'm still looking for a good 10-20.  I've seen a few behind barns or in the
farm dumps in my area.  Most of them are only good for parts, if even that.

My Granddad mentioned that the 10-20 my Great-Great Grandfather owned had
rubber tires.  He thought it was just tread bolted to the steel wheel in
place of lugs.  Would tires like that be original or is that a "shade tree"
modification?

On a long shot, does anyone have a 1951 Farmall Super C with serial number
130188?  My Granddad used that tractor for years on his farm.  It was sold
back to the dealership in the '70's; I believe it went to West Virginia
after that.  I'd love to find that tractor and restore it.

Ben Wagner

On Fri, Jul 29, 2011 at 3:00 PM, Bob Currie <tracturs at gmail.com> wrote:

> The McCormick Deering 10-20 was a very popular tractor and zillions were
> sold.  There are still plenty of them around and parts are certainly
> available from many of the advertised sources such as Rice, Tom Underwood,
> Weber, and others. I have had great luck networking with others who collect
> and tinker with them. Guys in OH, KS, OR, CA, TX, etc. The IHC Club
> magazine, Harvester Highlights has a section in the back that list folks
> who
> specialize in certain models of IH products. More than one of these fellas
> has tons of knowledge on the 10-20. Get a copy of HH if you don't already
> have one. Let us know how it works out today.
>
> bobcurrie
>
> On Fri, Jul 29, 2011 at 11:22 AM, Ben Wagner <supera1948 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Thanks to everyone who responded!  I'll know where to look now.  One of
> > these days, even if I can't find my Great-Great Grandfather's tractor,
> I'll
> > succumb and purchase a 10-20.  I love the way they look, and operate.
> > Kerosine, right?
> >
> > Bob, if I see one with 3 numbers, I'll be sure to let you know!  501
> starts
> > the line in 1923, anything before that is experimental.  I saw a Farmall
> A
> > with serial number 639 for sale on EBay a few months ago.  I think it
> ended
> > up closing at around 4000, but I'm not for sure.  Usually, if the owner
> > knows what he's got, the early numbers are accompanied with an
> appropriate
> > price tag.
> >
> > How hard is it to get parts for these old 10-20?  I know Rice Equipment
> has
> > parts, and occasionally I see some offered in larger corporation's
> > magazines.  Probably the best chance is salvage yards?  I was looking at
> > some old company sale books (Stickleys out of Harrisonburg VA) from
> > 1912-1960, and I saw that quite a few 10-20's were sold.  Most probably
> hit
> > the WWII scrap drives.
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> >
> > On Fri, Jul 29, 2011 at 12:42 PM, Bob Currie <tracturs at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Ben, The manufactuers ID plate is located on the fuel tank support
> > bracket
> > > and it faces the driver platform. If that is missing, you can check the
> > > oval, flat machined area on the engine block, near the front, just
> above
> > > the
> > > water outlet elbow as seen in the picture. Take a small wire brush and
> > some
> > > WD 40 along to clean off this area. I find a good flashlight will also
> > > help.
> > > The serial number starts with a KC and then followed by 4, 5, or 6
> > numbers.
> > > If it only has 3 numbers, call me right away!! :)   The last place you
> > can
> > > look is the bottom of the big cast tub that houses the transmission and
> > > Belt
> > > Pulley shaft.  Crawl under the tractor, and just about in line with the
> > > Belt Pulley shaft, across the bottom of the tub, you'll find the
> casting
> > > date. You'll probably have to scrub alot of dirt and grease off to see
> > > it. One or two digits for the month, a dot, one or two digits for the
> > day,
> > > another dot, then two digits for the year.  i.e.,  12 . 4. 31 , Todd
> > > Markle's book has manufacturer's production/build dates so you can
> match
> > up
> > > the casting date you find.
> > >
> > > bobcurrie,
> > > Greenwood, CA
> > >
> > > On Fri, Jul 29, 2011 at 5:23 AM, Ben Wagner <supera1948 at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Good morning,
> > > >
> > > > I am looking for an old McCormick Deering 10-20 tractor, but I can't
> > find
> > > > where the serial number for the engine resides.  I have heard that
> the
> > > main
> > > > number is on a plaque under the fuel tank, mounted somewhere on the
> > > frame;
> > > > however, someone said that the plate commonly disappears.   I'm sure
> > > > someone
> > > > has, or had, a 10-20 at some point on this list!  Where is the engine
> > > > serial
> > > > number stamped?
> > > >
> > > > My Great-Great Grandfather made the switch from horses to a
> > > > McCormick-Deering 10-20.  He used it to plow, but later it found more
> > > work
> > > > grinding feed.  His tractor was sold at a sale in 1952 after he died.
> >  I
> > > > ask
> > > > the question about the location of the serial number because I am
> > trying
> > > to
> > > > identify my Great-Great Grandfather's tractor.  Most likely, he
> > purchased
> > > > it
> > > > from T.P. Byers in Staunton, VA; unfortunately, the business closed
> > when
> > > > Tom
> > > > Byers died.  I'm searching to discover where the sales books are from
> > the
> > > > business; if the 10-20 was purchased like I think from T.P. Byers,
> the
> > > > serial number is recorded in the books.  I am looking at a 10-20
> > > tomorrow,
> > > > so I am interested in recording the serial numbers for future
> > reference.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks!
> > > >
> > > > Ben Wagner
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