[Farmall] Farmall Super A

[Barney Van De Weert]

Hardware, bolts etc are good for about 2 tightenings when they are being torqued 
to their max, after that they begin to stretch, once they begin they will 
continue. So I always use new bolts on rods and heads etc when rebuilding just 
to be safe. This is the reason that you may see a newly rebuilt engine throw a 
rod or have a head leak.
 Barney Van De Weert
3828 Heartwood St
Uniontown OH 44685 


bbvande at yahoo.com
Cell# 330-760-5988 




________________________________
From: Mike Sloane <mikesloane at verizon.net>
To: Farmall/IHC mailing list <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Fri, October 29, 2010 9:34:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Farmall] Farmall Super A

Just to add to Carl's excellent advise, after the initial setting, you 
should run the engine and let it come up to operating temperature, then 
shut it off and let it cool down. Then re-check the torque on all of the 
studs/bolts in the correct order once again. You would be surprised how 
much some of them change during this procedure. And, for an overhead 
valve engine, you should also check and re-set the rocker clearances.

These instructions apply to *all* engines, from chain saws to diesel 
locomotives, not just the Super A. And many manuals recommend replacing 
the old studs/bolts with new, especially if there is any indication of 
stretching or erosion. (This is something I have learned from 
not-so-good experience, most recently in a Cub I worked on. 
<http://public.fotki.com/mikesloane/1952-farmall-cub/theheadisfinallyon.html>)

Mike

On 10/29/2010 10:00 AM, szabelsk at gdls.com wrote:
> I use the copper spray on head gaskets. It 's supposed to be better for
> heat transmittal between the block and the head. It also give you a little
> something extra that helps take care of any minor irregularities with the
> block or the head. Make sure you torque the bolts in the correct order and
> to the correct value. I usually torque the bolts in three steps so that I
> get an even torque on all the bolts. On the first pass torque to about
> half the value, on the second torque to some value just under the required
> torque ( 5-10 ft-lbs less than required), on the third pass torque to the
> required value.
>
> Before you do anything, use a flat edge to check the block and head for
> any warpage. Place the straight edge in several locations and in multiple
> directions on both. Try to slip a feeler gauge under the straight edge at
> several points each time you put the straight edge against the block or
> head to see if you have any problems to worry about. No amount of sealer
> is going to work if there's too much warpage on either part. There may not
> have been any leakage before you disassembled the engine, but that doesn't
> mean everything is nice and flat. When you relieve the pressure on the
> head by removing the head bolts, it can spring due to built up tensions
> from all the heat that its seen during operation. It's nice if you can get
> your hands on a flatness gauge like the pros use.
>
>
> Carl Szabelski
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