[Farmall] Farmall Super A

[john hall]

Mike, good point about the bolts on a Cub. We replaced 4 or 5 in one we 
changed a head on this summer. Severely corroded wasn't the word for them.

Since you mentioned that, I'll mention cleaning out the tapped holes on 
air-cooled engines--like those in Cub Cadets (since they have a Cub rear-end 
I would say that makes it a list appropriate suggestion).

John Hall


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Sloane" <mikesloane at verizon.net>
To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Friday, October 29, 2010 10:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Farmall] Farmall Super A


> Just to add to Carl's excellent advise, after the initial setting, you
> should run the engine and let it come up to operating temperature, then
> shut it off and let it cool down. Then re-check the torque on all of the
> studs/bolts in the correct order once again. You would be surprised how
> much some of them change during this procedure. And, for an overhead
> valve engine, you should also check and re-set the rocker clearances.
>
> These instructions apply to *all* engines, from chain saws to diesel
> locomotives, not just the Super A. And many manuals recommend replacing
> the old studs/bolts with new, especially if there is any indication of
> stretching or erosion. (This is something I have learned from
> not-so-good experience, most recently in a Cub I worked on.
> <http://public.fotki.com/mikesloane/1952-farmall-cub/theheadisfinallyon.html>)
>
> Mike
>