[AT] welding problems

Al Jones farmallsupera at earthlink.net
Sun Nov 15 18:49:11 PST 2009


They do lay down a pretty weld but I always have more trouble getting one
started, especially after using part of the rod.  The actual steel burns
back far enough you just have a hunk of flux on the end and you have to
knock that off to get the steel core of the rod close enough to the base
metal to start an arc.

Al


> [Original Message]
> From: charliehill <charliehill at embarqmail.com>
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Date: 11/15/2009 3:23:16 PM
> Subject: Re: [AT] welding problems
>
> My reference says the any Exx18 rod is an all position, AC or DC,
Reverse, 
> iron powder, low hydrogen rod.
> The xx denotes the strength, 70 is 70,000 psi.
>
> All I know about  7018's personally is they are the sweetest running rods 
> I've ever burned.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Alan Nadeau" <ajnadeau1 at myfairpoint.net>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Sunday, November 15, 2009 2:46 PM
> Subject: Re: [AT] welding problems
>
>
> > Gene, I beg to differ with you.  Every 7018, but one, listed in my
pocket
> > reference is listed as AC or DC Reverse polarity.  The one exception is 
> > the
> > 7018AC, which is intended for the common home/farm shop welders which
tend
> > to have low open circuit voltage.
> >
> > As for the original issues that started this thread, 1/8" **18 class
> > electrodes should run fine at 180 amps.  The sticking/hard starting can
be
> > as much a problem of low OCV as amperage.   There is usually some sort
of
> > capacitance device in the welding circuit to smooth out the tremendous 
> > drop
> > in voltage and rise in amperage when an electrode is struck.  I'm not
sure
> > what bad stuff happens when that fails but I'm pretty sure it causes the
> > hard starting symptoms described.
> >
> > As for it being the Hyundai electrodes I tend to discount that as long
as
> > they are labeled as conforming to AWS Specs.
> >
> > Al Nadeau
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Gene Dotson" <gdotsly at watchtv.net>
> > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" 
> > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, November 15, 2009 8:54 AM
> > Subject: Re: [AT] welding problems
> >
> >
> >>    John'
> >>    Is your welder an AC only? Conventional 7018 rods are run on DC.
There
> >> is a 7018 rod made to run on AC, but has to be specific.
> >>
> >>    If your welder has DC capability, you may be running the wrong 
> >> polarity
> >> as 7018 DC is polarity sensitive.
> >>
> >>    I have a Lincoln AC welder and do most of my welding with 6011 and 
> >> 6013
> >> rods. Get best penetration witt 6011 and 6013 works better on thin
metals
> >> and gives a smoother weld.
> >>
> >>                    Gene
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >> From: "John Hall" <jthall at worldnet.att.net>
> >> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> >> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> >> Sent: Sunday, November 15, 2009 8:29 AM
> >> Subject: [AT] welding problems
> >>
> >>
> >>> OK stick welding experts, got one for you. The welder we have is a 40+
> >>> year
> >>> old Marquette, bought new for use here on the farm. I had to buy some
> >>> more
> >>> welding rods over the past several months and unfortunately had to 
> >>> switch
> >>> brands. We had always used Hobart (or possibly Lincoln) rods. The 
> >>> welding
> >>> supply chain now only sells Hyundai rods in small quantities (10 lb)
> >>> boxes.
> >>> I can't justify buying 50lbs of Hobart rods.
> >>> Anyway, on to my problem. I picked up a new box of 1/8" 7018 rods to
do
> >>> some repair on my subsoiler. I set the welder as high as it would go
> >>> (180)
> >>> and could not get it to weld. All I could get was a couple of arcs and
> >>> sometimes the rod would stick.  Before you ask, yes I cleaned where I 
> >>> was
> >>> welding, cleaned the ground area, made sure the terminals on the
welder
> >>> were
> >>> clean, and even cut off and reinstalled the end of the ground cable 
> >>> where
> >>> it
> >>> goes into the clamp. I also tried grounding and welding on 3 different
> >>> pieces--all of varying size and thickness.  I resorted to using 3/32 
> >>> rods
> >>> with the welder set on 125. It would run those rods so hot that they
> >>> would
> >>> almost turn red before it was time to switch. I know I have used 1/8"
> >>> 7014
> >>> before, so my question is this--Is there a difference between 7014 and
> >>> 7018
> >>> that makes the 7018 require a higher setting on the welder, Is there
> >>> something wrong with the welder, or is it something to do with these
> >>> imported rods?
> >>>
> >>> John Hall
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
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> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> AT mailing list
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> >>
> >
> >
> >
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