[Ford-ferguson] mail

[Rick Yearout]

Bob,
I have wired the 'simple' wiring on my TO30 as you described.
A #10 wire from alternator single post---->>>>> to battery side 
of sol(starter switch) on top of bell housing.
A #10 from same post ---->>>> to + side ammeter
A #10 wire from - side ammeter to BAT post on IGN key switch
A #10 wire from IGN post on key switch to coil.

It does not show charge on ammeter.
I have tried reversing wires on back of ammeter with same result.
I took alternator to have it tested again and they show it
As outputting 30AMPS/12V.
The tractor starts really easy but over time uses up the battery.

I am using existing wiring so I will go get all new wire and 
Connectors.
If this doesn't do the trick I don't what else to try.
Appreciate any guidance you can think of in the mean time.

Enjoy the weekend, we finally are seeing the snow melt away.

Rick 1952/TO30


-----Original Message-----
From: ford-ferguson-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:ford-ferguson-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Jeffers
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 2:36 AM
To: Ford-Ferguson mailing list
Subject: Re: [Ford-ferguson] mail

Yes I stand corrected I guess what I called a sol. is in fact the starter 
button. My tractor is still just like it came from the factory except it is 
12 volt instead of 6. It also has the Delco starter. My switch is a key 
switch that came with the tractor when new. Sorry for the confusion  Bob



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Yearout" <ry2ns at wildblue.net>
To: "'Ford-Ferguson mailing list'" <ford-ferguson at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 10:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Ford-ferguson] mail


> Thank you so much Bob,
> My 12V starter is Delco with no solenoid. Only the big wire
> from the small internal switch mounted on the bell housing
> goes to the only post on the starter. No other wires there.
> We may just calling the same thing different names.
> Are you saying the switch which looks like an old hi-beam
> switch we are familiar with being mounted left side of the floor board
> on older vehicles, my 1966 CHEV 3/4 ton has one for hi-beams.
> To me this is a switch.
>
> If I run a #10 wire from the post on the bell housing switch to
> the alternator, then from same post to + side ammeter,
> then negative side ammeter to key switch bat post,
> then ignition post on key switch to coil...
> I should all set.
>
> I have no lights at this time but will remember third post
> is for lighting.
>
> I will re-route wires tomorrow and let you know.
>
> Really, really appreciate the help.
>
> Rick 1952/TO30
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ford-ferguson-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:ford-ferguson-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Bob
> Jeffers
> Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 5:02 PM
> To: Ford-Ferguson mailing list
> Subject: Re: [Ford-ferguson] mail
>
> I have a 51 TO 30 with a one wire alt on it. The wire off the alt goes to
> the bat. side of the sol. then a wire from the bat side of sol. to the +
> side of the amp. gauge neg. side of amp. gauge to key switch bat. post 
> wire
> from ing.post on key switch to coil. Third post on key is for lights. You
> have to rev up the engine to excite the alt. every time you start the
> tractor but after it is excited you can idle it down and it will charge.
> Hope this helps  Bob
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Rick Yearout" <ry2ns at wildblue.net>
> To: "'Ford-Ferguson mailing list'" 
> <ford-ferguson at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 2:43 PM
> Subject: Re: [Ford-ferguson] mail
>
>
>> Joseph,
>> I have a TO30/1952 with a 12V alternator that does not seem to keep
>> the battery charged.
>> I replaced the ammeter and have tried wiring from both sides
>> of the terminals on the meter since neither side showed charge.
>> So I took the alternator and had it tested at NAPA who told me
>> it is outputting 12v/30 amps.
>>
>> I have the ignition hot lead going down to the top mount switch
>> on the bell housing terminal, which also has the positive battery lead.
>> That goes to the starter.
>> The single wire alternator lead goes to - side of the ammeter.
>> The + side of the ammeter goes down to the bell housing terminal
>> where the battery is connected.
>> It is still not charging.
>> I have two diagrams I have downloaded but neither configuration
>> is working.
>> Any ideas?
>>
>> I should be receiving my Ferguson shop manual this week
>> so it may provide exactly how it needs to be wired.
>>
>> Thanks for any guidance.
>>
>> Rick 1952 TO30
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: ford-ferguson-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> [mailto:ford-ferguson-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
>> Joseph
>> Knight
>> Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 4:18 PM
>> To: Ford-Ferguson mailing list
>> Subject: Re: [Ford-ferguson] mail
>>
>> FWIW:
>> Smith & Sons of Warrenton VA was able to get me a replacement ignition
>> switch for my TO35 (but is was a few years ago) and that solved some
>> electrical problems.  If you can get an inner tube for the front tire,
>> that might isolate the problem--I have had the valve to fail as well,
>> but that usually goes completely flat rather quickly.  Dave beat me to
>> the 12 V light question, but if there is a bad ground on the light
>> circuit, you would not see a high discharge.
>>
>> TBache9248 at aol.com wrote:
>>> Good Morning,
>>>
>>> Like you, haven't seen any content.  Lots of spam invasions to some of
>> these
>>> and that drives people away.  Best thing is if the list is never made
>> public
>>> and members only "approved".  Publish the name of the list in well 
>>> known
>>> publications of interest such as the N-Newsletter and let people find it
>> that
>>> way.  It requires a moderator of sorts.
>>>
>>> Anyway, as for me, my TO30 has a front tire that keeps going down over
>>> 2-3
>>
>>> weeks and I can't figure the charging system. Ammeter shows it doesn't
>> charge
>>> and if you turn the headlamps on it show high discharge and they are 
>>> very
>>
>>> dim.
>>> Done so far: replaced the battery, rebuilt the generator (6V positive
>>> ground) two different regulators, various attempts at polarizing the
>> generator,  new
>>> battery cables, new wiring loom, checked twice to be sure I don't have
>>> something wired backward.
>>> I presume either is has a bad ground on the light circuit or the
>>> ignition/lamp switch is bad.  I have not seen a vendor that sells the
>> original style
>>> switch with the bakelite key.
>>> Despite this, it seems to start readily, although 2-3 time a year I do
>> have
>>> to charge the battery.
>>>
>>> Friend is beginning a overhaul of his father-in-laws 8N.  Been in 
>>> family
>>> since new.  I signed him up for subscripton of N-Newsletter  too.
>>>
>>> Now, out to the shop to work on the Bobcat ( glow plugs not working) and
>>> then take the trans out of the Land Rover( bad bearing).
>>>
>>> Tom Bache
>>> Avondale, PA
>>> USA
>>>
>>>
>>> **************New year...new news.  Be the first to know what is making
>>> headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026)
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>
>>>
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