[AT] @$#@$#% Cub - red engine oil

[Rupert]

Hello Steve,
	I'm curious. Do the combustion acids and water stay behind with the 
dirty stuff or do they transfer over? Otherwise, I like your method of 
purifying the oil.

Rupert

Steve W. wrote:
> charliehill wrote:
>> The time I tried to burn used oil before I just dumped it about 15 or 20% in 
>> with my #2 oil in the furnace tank.  I let it sit and figured that between 
>> the settling, dilution and the wool sock filter on the fuel line it would be 
>> ok but it wasn't.   A few days or weeks later I started having furnace 
>> problems.  I pulled the pump off of the furnace and it was full of very fine 
>> black grit that had gotten through the sock filter and the strainer on the 
>> pump.  I spent the rest of that winter and most of the next trying to keep 
>> that furnace running until I finally replaced the pump and switched the fuel 
>> lines.  Problem solved.
>>
>> Since then I've changed fuel tanks and put a "goldenrod" brand filter like 
>> you put on a farm fuel transfer pump ahead of the wool sock filter.  If I 
>> try to burn any more of that stuff I want to be sure I have it cleaned up. 
>> I don't want to contaminate this system now that I have it clean.
>>
>> Charlie
> 
> That is the nice thing with the rope system. Solids cannot migrate
> through it. Only the liquids can. The batch I did started out as a mix
> of #2, crankcase oil from a few diesels and cars and some Hytran and
> gear oil. All of it had grit and soot in it.
> 
> After the rope the oil actually looked almost good enough to put in the
> car!
> 
> The second system got built because I wanted to do the process faster.
> 
> 
> 
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-- 

yvt

Rupert Wenig
Camrose, Alberta, Canada.	

email: rwenig2 at xplornet.com
	
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