[AT] Rivet how-to

[r.ollerton]

I recall. Slowly, that its about 1 nano second per foot of wire.  I think
you are safe with those distances for timing, although in the early computer
mainframe days some systems (Seymour's CDCs?) were "tuned" by trimming
cables a foot at a time...  Signal strength due to wire resistance, RF
interference, alpha particles, sun spots and cable capacitance will be the
real problem.


-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Larry D. Goss
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 4:08 PM
To: 'Antique tractor email discussion group'
Subject: RE: [AT] Rivet how-to


I don't want to trundle a compressor or a hydraulic press to the shows,
Walt.  So I'll continue using hand tools for the process so I can do sickle
knife restoration on the spot.

BTW, be cautious about the extra length USB cables.  There's so much
communication going back and forth in a USB system that data lag can get to
be a problem when the distance gets too great.  I'll have to dig the
standard out to check for sure, but if I remember right the USB 2.0 (the
better one of the two) is only warranted for 4.5 meters.  Some of the
special connections in the standard have a maximum transmission distance of
around 20 inches.  If you want some bedtime reading, download the standard
and print it out.  It's only around 900 pages.  You'll find the extra length
gets critical when you're both uploading and downloading to that All-in-one.
When push comes to shove, you may be happier by establishing a Wi-Fi network
at home and hooking up a Wi-Fi printer node to your system.  Then you don't
have to worry about cable length.

Larry

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
DAVIESW739 at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 2:18 PM
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: Re: [AT] Rivet how-to

Larry I use my 1/2 in impact to push the rivets out and set the new ones

with my tool not sure what brand it is buts pretty heavy duty and heavy to  
handle. My old arms just won't take all that wrench pulling anymore. I would
like 
to get a hydraulic press to do the work maybe this summer I will have enough

money saved up.  I have 7 ft. bars on my Massey mower  conditioner and they 
take a lots blades and twice that many rivets. 
the rivets are made from mild steel little or no carbon. You could use grade

3 bolts to get the same hardness. That's the bolts with no markings on the  
head. # marks are grade 5 and 6 marks are grade 8. then you get into the

special  types.  2 marks at 90 deg. is stainless steel. 
Caterpillar  bolts are 4140 steel that are marked with CAT on the  head. You

need to replace cat bolts with cat bolts even if they do cost a  lot more. 
 
Walt  Davies
Cooper Hollow Farm
Monmouth, OR 97361
503 623-0460 


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