[AT] Rivet how-to

[Roger Welsch]

I read this thread and am amazed all over again at what an incredible
resource this site is.  I'm a late-comer to The Brotherhood of the Wrench,
as some of you know, having brought my first socket after I was 50.  And the
first five or ten years I flailed and talked with the town geezers...which
was a terrific experience, I should note.  But there is so much to
know...and it was so hard to find until the web and sites like this.  I
lurk, and I joke, and I tinker (as opposed to restore), but I hope you do
know that there are some of us out here who stand in awe of 1) the
information you people have and 2) your generosity in sharing it.

Roger Welsch



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <DAVIESW739 at aol.com>
To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 2:18 PM
Subject: Re: [AT] Rivet how-to


> Larry I use my 1/2 in impact to push the rivets out and set the new ones
> with my tool not sure what brand it is buts pretty heavy duty and heavy to
> handle. My old arms just won't take all that wrench pulling anymore. I
would  like
> to get a hydraulic press to do the work maybe this summer I will have
enough
> money saved up.  I have 7 ft. bars on my Massey mower  conditioner and
they
> take a lots blades and twice that many rivets.
> the rivets are made from mild steel little or no carbon. You could use
grade
> 3 bolts to get the same hardness. That's the bolts with no markings on the
> head. # marks are grade 5 and 6 marks are grade 8. then you get into the
> special  types.  2 marks at 90 deg. is stainless steel.
> Caterpillar  bolts are 4140 steel that are marked with CAT on the  head.
You
> need to replace cat bolts with cat bolts even if they do cost a  lot more.
>
> Walt  Davies
> Cooper Hollow Farm
> Monmouth, OR 97361
> 503 623-0460
>
>


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