[Farmall] 1925 M/D 10-20

[Karl Olmstead]

James, I wouldn't worry too much about a few hunks of rust that fell into 
the cylinder.  They'll go out the exhaust if/when the engine starts.  Or if 
you have an air nozzle available, you can probably blow them out now by 
directing a blast of air into the sparkplug hole.  Keep your face out of the 
way when trying this.  As a general rule, I like to blow away any stuff 
around the plugs before I remove them; around here, it is likely to be sand. 
Just for your future info.  Take a look at the plug tips before you throw 
them away; they tell you a lot about the condition in that cylinder.

While you're tinkering, pull the oil cup off the bottom of the air filter. 
It needs to be cleaned out and refilled with clean oil.  If it has rusted 
out, it can be patched with JB Weld.  This cup is often full of rust, so it 
needs to be cleaned before you start turning over the engine.  I realize 
that isn't a problem yet, since the engine is stuck.

A 1925 10-20 probably has the 'fine thread' gas caps, which were 
problematic.  I'd douse it with some oil or penetrating oil and let it sit; 
there's no rush getting it freed up.  You can run the engine from the one 
gallon gasoline tank if you get to that stage before the main tank cap frees 
up.  Rushing things is what bends and breaks parts.  Take your time!

-Karl

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> KO-
> I related my activities of the day earlier and I hope
> you will give it a read.  I must mention... when that
> final, stubborn plug let loose, I DID notice a bit of
> "crap" around the plug hole.  I tried to bring it away
> from there so that it did not fall down upon the
> cylinder/valves but, I am sure, some of must have done
> so.  Is this a problem?  Will it dissolve in the
> mixture?  Will the entire head have to be pulled now
> or at some point?
> Also, the gasoline filler cap came off easily.  The
> distillate tank cap won't budge.  Can I "persuade" it
> with a channel locks or would doing so be a bad idea?
> Thanks.
> JM
>