[Farmall] 1925 M/D 10-20

[Karl Olmstead]

James, the plugs require a 15/16 wrench".  Wouldn't hurt to spray a 
penetrating oil around the bases, but probably won't be necessary.  You 
won't break them off; at worst you might round off the wrench flats if 
they're really stuck tight.  You probably don't even need a socket; a box 
end wrench will work.  The spark plug holes are so big that it is easy to 
shine a flashlight inside and (in the dark) see what the interior of the 
cylinder looks like.

There might be some rust in the exhaust, but unless you find one or two 
cylinders full of water, it is unlikely that any major amount of stuff has 
built up in the exhaust manifold.  Generally not a problem.  I usually dump 
some diesel fuel mixed with automatic transmission fluid down the exhaust 
manifold also; it helps break loose any sticky valves.

When you get to the stage where you are attempting to turn over the engine, 
remove the rocker arm cover and tap on the valves to make sure that they 
aren't stuck.  If you succeed in turning the engine and a valve happens to 
be stuck, you'll bend the pushrod or break the rocker arm.

Clutches are usually not stuck badly; the rear main seal is just a hunk of 
felt, so some oil tends to seep past and ooze out onto the clutch, 
preventing serious rust.  The exception to this rule is if a mouse has made 
a nest in the clutch housing.  If that happens, the clutch will be a rusted 
mess.

Operating and service manuals and parts catalogs for a 10-20 are available 
from www.binderbooks.com .

You can't post pictures on this bulletin board, but you can offer to email 
them to interested parties.  Count me in...

olmstead at ridgenet.net

Or you can put them up on a web page somewhere and tell us where they are. 
They'll need to be reduced in size (cropped and shrunk to something like 
640x480 pixels) so that guys like me with slow dial-up connections can stand 
to download the pictures.  Thanks for taking the time to show them to us!

-Karl (in Ridgecrest, CA, middle of Mojave Desert)


------------------
> KO-
> Tomorrow I am going to borrow a digital camera from a
> neighbor and take some shots of the tractor and
> H-'n-M.  I am an idiot, of course, so that same fellow
> will, hopefully, help me "post" them, if that is the
> correct term.
> While there, I will make the first attempt to remedy
> the M/D.  I don't know what socket size the plugs
> are...I would imagine 7/8, but I don't know for sure.
> IYO...how readily will the plugs cut loose?  Should I
> be concerned about putting too much behind the effort
> and break them off at the neck?  Should I spray
> something alone the lines of WD-40 on them before
> taking the shot?  Clearly, I don't want to do MORE
> damage in the attempt to fix it!  What about the
> exhaust?  Will there likely be a "rats nest" of crap
> inside of it?  Do you feel that the clutch plate is
> rusted tight?  Any time you could dedicate to guiding
> me would be OK with me, naturally.
> Where do you live, by the way?
> JM
>
> --- Karl Olmstead <olmstead at ridgenet.net> wrote:
>
>> James, remove the sparkplugs from your 10-20, and
>> wait for nightfall.  Take
>> a powerful flashlight out with you, and shine it
>> into the sparkplug holes.
>> You should be able to see the opposite cylinder
>> wall.  It wouldn't be
>> surprising to find three good cylinders and one
>> rusty one.  That'll be the
>> stuck piston, and you will be able to see just how
>> much rust has
>> accumulated.
>>
>> While you're at it, squirt some oil, ATF or
>> penetrating oil in each
>> cylinder, put the plugs back in, and let the engine
>> set for a few days
>> before you try unsticking it.
>>
>> The rules are different for old tractors vs. antique
>> cars.  In general, no
>> judging takes place at tractor shows, so the
>> atmosphere is much less
>> competitive than it is at car shows.  A tractor with
>> all its original decals
>> in place on old paint is looked upon as a historical
>> treasure, not an old
>> tractor with ugly paint.
>>
>> -Karl
>>
>>
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