[Farmall] 1925 M/D 10-20

[James Moran]

KO-
Tomorrow I am going to borrow a digital camera from a
neighbor and take some shots of the tractor and
H-'n-M.  I am an idiot, of course, so that same fellow
will, hopefully, help me "post" them, if that is the
correct term.
While there, I will make the first attempt to remedy
the M/D.  I don't know what socket size the plugs
are...I would imagine 7/8, but I don't know for sure. 
IYO...how readily will the plugs cut loose?  Should I
be concerned about putting too much behind the effort
and break them off at the neck?  Should I spray
something alone the lines of WD-40 on them before
taking the shot?  Clearly, I don't want to do MORE
damage in the attempt to fix it!  What about the
exhaust?  Will there likely be a "rats nest" of crap
inside of it?  Do you feel that the clutch plate is
rusted tight?  Any time you could dedicate to guiding
me would be OK with me, naturally.
Where do you live, by the way?
JM

--- Karl Olmstead <olmstead at ridgenet.net> wrote:

> James, remove the sparkplugs from your 10-20, and
> wait for nightfall.  Take 
> a powerful flashlight out with you, and shine it
> into the sparkplug holes. 
> You should be able to see the opposite cylinder
> wall.  It wouldn't be 
> surprising to find three good cylinders and one
> rusty one.  That'll be the 
> stuck piston, and you will be able to see just how
> much rust has 
> accumulated.
> 
> While you're at it, squirt some oil, ATF or
> penetrating oil in each 
> cylinder, put the plugs back in, and let the engine
> set for a few days 
> before you try unsticking it.
> 
> The rules are different for old tractors vs. antique
> cars.  In general, no 
> judging takes place at tractor shows, so the
> atmosphere is much less 
> competitive than it is at car shows.  A tractor with
> all its original decals 
> in place on old paint is looked upon as a historical
> treasure, not an old 
> tractor with ugly paint.
> 
> -Karl 
> 
> 
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