[Steam-engine] Valve Seat, too smooth

Andre' Blanchard andre at usermail.com
Fri May 6 11:50:14 PDT 2005


I do not think you can get it to smooth, I have books describing large 
stationary engines that say when you have the amount of cylinder lube set 
right the cylinder wall will get to a mirror finish after running for a 
while.  But they are running 24/7 with no chance for rust to get started.
That said I think it unlikely you will be able to measure any difference in 
performance of the engine between just smoothing up the milled surface and 
giving it a mirror finish.  On mine little engine I milled the valve face 
and just went over it with a fine diamond hone (one I new was flat) to take 
the peaks off of the milling marks.
If you hone it to much by hand the finish may get better but you may also 
be making the surface less flat unless you keep checking it against a 
reference surface.

When they milled the valve face did they square up the bottom edge that the 
valve rides on?  Or is the Huber valve made differently?  On mine the valve 
face is vertical and there is a machined ledge at the bottom that the edge 
of the valve rides on and it was worn more then the valve face.  I machined 
the bottom edge of the valve and the mating ledge on the cylinder.
___________
Andre' B.  Clear Lake, Wi.


At 08:06 AM 5/6/2005, you wrote:
>As I was working on honing the valve seat to remove
>the cutter marks I began to wonder if I need to worry
>about getting the surface to smooth.  The D valve is
>already very smooth with a ground finish and the is
>well in its way to being just as slick.  I know that
>if we get cylinder walls to slick on a gas engine oil
>won't stick to the cylinder walls and there is a lack
>of lubrication for the piston.  My initial thinking
>was to get the seat as smooth as possible so that it
>will make a better bearing surface.  Should I go for
>super smooth or should I leave faint traces of the
>tool marks to hold oil?
>
>Andy Glines
>Evansville, IN
>
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