[AT] cub / prime oil pump

[charlie hill]

There used to be a device on the market that pre-lubed your engine.
It stored engine oil under presure while the engine was running and a check 
valve kept it under presure after shut off.  Then on re-start a solidoid 
released the check valve and the oil was forced to the bearings through one 
of the oil tap passages in the block.

I never tried one but always wanted to.  Don't know if they are still around 
or not.

Charlie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ken knierim" <wild1 at cpe-66-1-196-61.az.sprintbbd.net>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Friday, June 10, 2005 10:25 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] cub / prime oil pump


> The famed Merlin engine in the P-51 I helped rewire had an electric
> pre-lube pump. I believe the German FW-190 had something similar on the
> inverted V-12 Jumo; sometimes these things are necessary.
>
> That said, there are at least 3 different general methods of handling
> prelubrication or startup that I have seen.
>
> 1. crank the engine until you have oil pressure, then turn on the
> ignition (seems to be the situation with some of my old tractors no
> matter what I do to tune them up). Poor-man's "pre-lube".
>
> 2. Prime the pumps manually. I rarely do this unless the engine has been
> sitting awhile. I have a special adapter I made for my drill to drive
> the distributor shaft for when I do it though, because I pre-lube every
> engine I rebuild.
>
> 3. Start the engine and let it idle until oil pressure comes up, then
> increase power.
>
> Most of us will use a combination of 1 & 3. I have done this and still
> had troubles:
>
> I drove from Phoenix to my hometown in Montana for Christmas. Not
> thinking, I left the 30w "summer oil" in it for the trip. That time it
> got cold... it was -56 degrees the morning I went to start the Blazer.
> It barely started but I got it going. After a few minutes of idling I
> realized that I still didn't have oil pressure... it came up but REAL
> SLOWLY. From then on I had rattle in the bottom end of the engine until
> I replaced it (wanted more power than the old 305 could muster anyway).
> Since then I have switched to Mobil 1; it doesn't seem to turn to tar
> when the weather gets cold.
>
> It's also been my experience on engines that while you may have gage
> pressure, you still don't have flow out to all the bearings for some
> time, many times 10-15 seconds after startup (watch the oil flow when
> adjusting rocker arms). While there will be oil stored in the bearings
> in most cases (more or less depending on wear, sit time, etc), engine
> life is considerably enhanced by starting and idling for a bit before
> putting it into gear. The rebuilt engine I have in a carbureted Camaro
> has been driven HARD for 200K miles since a rebuild and it has no odd
> knocks, rattles, etc. Smart start-up procedures and regular maintenance
> go a long way toward keeping this old iron running.
>
> Ken
>
> On Thu, 2005-06-09 at 15:39, K7jdj at aol.com wrote:
>> In a message dated 6/9/05 12:50:30 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
>> DAVIESW739 at aol.com writes:
>>
>> I DID lose a set of bearings in an engine
>> that  failed to prime after setting all winter.
>>
>>
>> Many larger commercial engines have built in pre lub pumps.  Some even 
>> have
>> electric pumps that are controlled by timers that pump lub oil through 
>> the
>> engine when it is not running.  I know of a case where the pumps were 
>> wired wrong
>> (3 phase) and the pumps sucked oil instead of pumping oil and you and 
>> your
>> fellow tax payers paid a lot of tax dollars to repair several of these 
>> engines.
>>
>> Sometimes if one of my engines is slow to start after sitting idle for a
>> period of time I am glad.  I always pull the coil wire or diesel solenoid 
>> wire if
>> an engine has not been run for several months.  Crank until I've got oil
>> pressure showing and this is the recommend procedure in several shop 
>> manuals.
>>
>> Gary
>> Renton, WA.
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