[AJD] Upper Water pipe on 1953 60??? - Typical antique tractor saga

[Dean VP]

Merle:

Thanks for the tip. While trying to get the pipe assembly off the tractor
with both castings attached to the pipe, I had to struggle a bit to get the
radiator casting off of the studs. Not sure why it was so resistant. In the
process made a mental note to make sure I put that end on first. 

Don't have to worry about the thermostat on this tractor as this is an early
60 and doesn't have one. It has the bellows that adjusts the shutters. If
they were still there? :-) I have a set of shutters available that will fit,
I think, but will need to check out the bellows to see if they still work.
Usually they don't anymore. Not the biggest problem right now. Still fixing
leaks. 

Hmmm,  I wonder if I shouldn't consider trying to upgrade this with the
later thermostat Upper Water Pipe setup while I have this apart?  I would
think they would be interchangeable. 

Dean A. Van Peursem
Snohomish, WA 98290

I'm a walking storeroom of facts..... I've just lost the key to the
storeroom door 


www.deerelegacy.com

http://members.cox.net/classicweb/email.htm



-----Original Message-----
From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
Merle W. Johnson
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 8:04 PM
To: Antique John Deere mailing list
Subject: Re: [AJD] Upper Water pipe on 1953 60??? - Typical antique
tractorsaga

as there are several different sizes depending on tractor size, I use
exhaust pipe or thin wall conduit, which ever is a close fit and use
standard O rings.  Never had on leak yet.  You're right, both ends are a
slip fit.  I hook up to the radiator first then the head as you need to be a
little carefulnot to dislodge the thermostat.
Merle

Kenneth Jones wrote:

> Dean,
>
>       I am restoring a '59 -  530 and had to take the upper water pipe
apart in order to clean the castings.  I put one of the castings in a vice
and worked the pipe back and forth until it came out of the casting.  I then
repeated the process for the casting on the other end of the pipe.  I did
not use a wrench to twist the pipe out of the castings just my hands.  Sad
to say the upper pipe was very thin in the middle so I paid the $57 dollars
for a new one since any of the used ones that I found locally were really in
bad shape on the ends.  The "O" rings hold the pipe in the castings with the
friction created by the rings. If you would like, I would measure the ID &
OD of my new pipe if that would help..  I have been told that if I had those
dimensions, I could get a replacement at a drive live shop...Don't know it
that is correct but older wisdom gave me that suggestion..
>
>
> Ken Jones
>
> Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:
> Antique tractors make you pay if you ignore them for awhile. About a year
> ago I picked up a 1953 60 that I thought was a parts tractor. As you may
> recall it was stuck but had a bunch of valuable stuff on it. I was able to
> break it loose and get it running but the starter was messed up so I had
to
> pull start it to get it running.
>
> Well it got put in the back of the shed and ignored since then however, I
> did take the starter all apart and cleaned it up and the only thing that I
> couldn't fix was the starter switch. I got a new one of those and finally
> got around to adding that and everything worked great off the tractor. So
> yesterday I installed it and it worked flawlessly when I got a good
battery!
> :-).
>
> In the process I found out I've had two more 12 v batteries go south so
went
> and picked up a new one today. Installed it and the starter spun the
tractor
> over very well but it wouldn't start. No spark, points corroded, fixed
that,
> still wouldn't start. Gas stale, drained gas, put in new. Tried again,
> popped right off and ran nicely. Shut it down quickly because I hadn't
added
> water yet. Filled the radiator with water and had a water leak I hadn't
> observed before. Oh, I didn't tighten the plug good and tight, no leak
there
> any more but one next to it. Where is that coming from? Upper water pipe
has
> a rust through hole, water exiting onto block and head dripping next to
> drain plug. @#$%^&. Oh joy. But the leak isn't bad enough to keep me from
> running this for a bit.
>
> Filled radiator and then proceeded to try to start the tractor again.
Engine
> locks up starter Bendix gear makes terrible sound. Hand turn flywheel and
> sure enough a hydraulic lock on the cylinders. Now what do I have a
cracked
> block or head or something? No water in it all last winter and it didn't
> have this trouble before. Weird! Pulled plugs, sure enough both cylinders
> full of gas not water. Haven't had this before either. Removed gas from
> cylinders, pulled carburetor bowl to see if the float and needle was
> shutting off gas properly. It wasn't. Removed float and needle from
> carburetor while carburetor still on tractor. Didn't find anything wrong.
> Blew seat clean with air and reassembled the carburetor. Now the float and
> needle is working. Must have got some dirt in the needle/seat interface
when
> I drained the gas tank. Ok, now let's start this sucker again.
>
> Engage starter, terrible noise, Bendix gear having a tough time engaging
> ring gear. A couple tries and it eventually engages and the tractor starts
> right up. Gas tank has a leak as well but that I had observed before. So
> with a gas tank leak and a water leak I took it for a short ride outside
the
> shop and put it back. All is cool.
>
> I need to find out what I did to the starter Bendix gear because the ring
> gear doesn't look all that worn. Another project.
>
> Finally now the question?
>
> But I have a question on the upper water pipe section. JD still sells them
> for a nice tidy sum of $57 plus two one dollar "O' ring gaskets. However,
I
> have never done this procedure before. I have read posts on ATIS where it
> was mentioned that this pipe can be substituted with a common variety
piece
> of pipe. What diameter, ID and OD, and what material should the pipe be
made
> of? How is this pipe held in the two castings? Friction fit? If so how do
> you get the pipe out of the two castings to replace the pipe? I would
> appreciate input from anyone who has been down this road before. I guess
one
> could get a whole assembly from a salvage yard but one never really knows
> how good that pipe might be either. Or maybe try to gas weld the hole in
> the pipe if the hole isn't too big and it's not rusted out elsewhere.
>
> When I pull the hood to find the gas leak, I'll try to fix the upper water
> pipe at the same time. I may be looking for a replacement gas tank as
well.
> Anyone have a good one to sell?
>
> One step forward and two steps backward.
>
> Dean A. Van Peursem
> Snohomish, WA 98290
>
> I'm a walking storeroom of facts..... I've just lost the key to the
> storeroom door
>
> www.deerelegacy.com
>
> http://members.cox.net/classicweb/email.htm
>
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