[AJD] Upper Water pipe on 1953 60??? - Typical antique tractor saga

Merle W. Johnson wjohnson at bigriver.net
Mon Oct 25 17:55:18 PDT 2004


Dean
I think I have a complete upper water pipe available for a 60 but can't remember
what series it is.  I'll check in daylight tomorrow and let you know.  It would
be cheap,cheap!
Merle

Dean VP wrote:

> Merle:
>
> Thanks for the tip. While trying to get the pipe assembly off the tractor
> with both castings attached to the pipe, I had to struggle a bit to get the
> radiator casting off of the studs. Not sure why it was so resistant. In the
> process made a mental note to make sure I put that end on first.
>
> Don't have to worry about the thermostat on this tractor as this is an early
> 60 and doesn't have one. It has the bellows that adjusts the shutters. If
> they were still there? :-) I have a set of shutters available that will fit,
> I think, but will need to check out the bellows to see if they still work.
> Usually they don't anymore. Not the biggest problem right now. Still fixing
> leaks.
>
> Hmmm,  I wonder if I shouldn't consider trying to upgrade this with the
> later thermostat Upper Water Pipe setup while I have this apart?  I would
> think they would be interchangeable.
>
> Dean A. Van Peursem
> Snohomish, WA 98290
>
> I'm a walking storeroom of facts..... I've just lost the key to the
> storeroom door
>
> www.deerelegacy.com
>
> http://members.cox.net/classicweb/email.htm
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
> Merle W. Johnson
> Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 8:04 PM
> To: Antique John Deere mailing list
> Subject: Re: [AJD] Upper Water pipe on 1953 60??? - Typical antique
> tractorsaga
>
> as there are several different sizes depending on tractor size, I use
> exhaust pipe or thin wall conduit, which ever is a close fit and use
> standard O rings.  Never had on leak yet.  You're right, both ends are a
> slip fit.  I hook up to the radiator first then the head as you need to be a
> little carefulnot to dislodge the thermostat.
> Merle
>
> Kenneth Jones wrote:
>
> > Dean,
> >
> >       I am restoring a '59 -  530 and had to take the upper water pipe
> apart in order to clean the castings.  I put one of the castings in a vice
> and worked the pipe back and forth until it came out of the casting.  I then
> repeated the process for the casting on the other end of the pipe.  I did
> not use a wrench to twist the pipe out of the castings just my hands.  Sad
> to say the upper pipe was very thin in the middle so I paid the $57 dollars
> for a new one since any of the used ones that I found locally were really in
> bad shape on the ends.  The "O" rings hold the pipe in the castings with the
> friction created by the rings. If you would like, I would measure the ID &
> OD of my new pipe if that would help..  I have been told that if I had those
> dimensions, I could get a replacement at a drive live shop...Don't know it
> that is correct but older wisdom gave me that suggestion..
> >
> >
> > Ken Jones
> >
> > Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:
> > Antique tractors make you pay if you ignore them for awhile. About a year
> > ago I picked up a 1953 60 that I thought was a parts tractor. As you may
> > recall it was stuck but had a bunch of valuable stuff on it. I was able to
> > break it loose and get it running but the starter was messed up so I had
> to
> > pull start it to get it running.
> >
> > Well it got put in the back of the shed and ignored since then however, I
> > did take the starter all apart and cleaned it up and the only thing that I
> > couldn't fix was the starter switch. I got a new one of those and finally
> > got around to adding that and everything worked great off the tractor. So
> > yesterday I installed it and it worked flawlessly when I got a good
> battery!
> > :-).
> >
> > In the process I found out I've had two more 12 v batteries go south so
> went
> > and picked up a new one today. Installed it and the starter spun the
> tractor
> > over very well but it wouldn't start. No spark, points corroded, fixed
> that,
> > still wouldn't start. Gas stale, drained gas, put in new. Tried again,
> > popped right off and ran nicely. Shut it down quickly because I hadn't
> added
> > water yet. Filled the radiator with water and had a water leak I hadn't
> > observed before. Oh, I didn't tighten the plug good and tight, no leak
> there
> > any more but one next to it. Where is that coming from? Upper water pipe
> has
> > a rust through hole, water exiting onto block and head dripping next to
> > drain plug. @#$%^&. Oh joy. But the leak isn't bad enough to keep me from
> > running this for a bit.
> >
> > Filled radiator and then proceeded to try to start the tractor again.
> Engine
> > locks up starter Bendix gear makes terrible sound. Hand turn flywheel and
> > sure enough a hydraulic lock on the cylinders. Now what do I have a
> cracked
> > block or head or something? No water in it all last winter and it didn't
> > have this trouble before. Weird! Pulled plugs, sure enough both cylinders
> > full of gas not water. Haven't had this before either. Removed gas from
> > cylinders, pulled carburetor bowl to see if the float and needle was
> > shutting off gas properly. It wasn't. Removed float and needle from
> > carburetor while carburetor still on tractor. Didn't find anything wrong.
> > Blew seat clean with air and reassembled the carburetor. Now the float and
> > needle is working. Must have got some dirt in the needle/seat interface
> when
> > I drained the gas tank. Ok, now let's start this sucker again.
> >
> > Engage starter, terrible noise, Bendix gear having a tough time engaging
> > ring gear. A couple tries and it eventually engages and the tractor starts
> > right up. Gas tank has a leak as well but that I had observed before. So
> > with a gas tank leak and a water leak I took it for a short ride outside
> the
> > shop and put it back. All is cool.
> >
> > I need to find out what I did to the starter Bendix gear because the ring
> > gear doesn't look all that worn. Another project.
> >
> > Finally now the question?
> >
> > But I have a question on the upper water pipe section. JD still sells them
> > for a nice tidy sum of $57 plus two one dollar "O' ring gaskets. However,
> I
> > have never done this procedure before. I have read posts on ATIS where it
> > was mentioned that this pipe can be substituted with a common variety
> piece
> > of pipe. What diameter, ID and OD, and what material should the pipe be
> made
> > of? How is this pipe held in the two castings? Friction fit? If so how do
> > you get the pipe out of the two castings to replace the pipe? I would
> > appreciate input from anyone who has been down this road before. I guess
> one
> > could get a whole assembly from a salvage yard but one never really knows
> > how good that pipe might be either. Or maybe try to gas weld the hole in
> > the pipe if the hole isn't too big and it's not rusted out elsewhere.
> >
> > When I pull the hood to find the gas leak, I'll try to fix the upper water
> > pipe at the same time. I may be looking for a replacement gas tank as
> well.
> > Anyone have a good one to sell?
> >
> > One step forward and two steps backward.
> >
> > Dean A. Van Peursem
> > Snohomish, WA 98290
> >
> > I'm a walking storeroom of facts..... I've just lost the key to the
> > storeroom door
> >
> > www.deerelegacy.com
> >
> > http://members.cox.net/classicweb/email.htm
> >
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