[AJD] Upper Water pipe on 1953 60??? - Typical antique tractor saga

Merle W. Johnson wjohnson at bigriver.net
Sun Oct 24 20:03:40 PDT 2004


as there are several different sizes depending on tractor size, I use exhaust pipe or thin wall conduit, which ever is a close fit and use standard O rings.  Never had on leak yet.  You're right, both ends are a slip fit.  I hook up to the radiator first then the head as you need to be a little carefulnot to dislodge the thermostat.
Merle

Kenneth Jones wrote:

> Dean,
>
>       I am restoring a '59 -  530 and had to take the upper water pipe apart in order to clean the castings.  I put one of the castings in a vice and worked the pipe back and forth until it came out of the casting.  I then repeated the process for the casting on the other end of the pipe.  I did not use a wrench to twist the pipe out of the castings just my hands.  Sad to say the upper pipe was very thin in the middle so I paid the $57 dollars for a new one since any of the used ones that I found locally were really in bad shape on the ends.  The "O" rings hold the pipe in the castings with the friction created by the rings. If you would like, I would measure the ID & OD of my new pipe if that would help..  I have been told that if I had those dimensions, I could get a replacement at a drive live shop...Don't know it that is correct but older wisdom gave me that suggestion..
>
>
> Ken Jones
>
> Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:
> Antique tractors make you pay if you ignore them for awhile. About a year
> ago I picked up a 1953 60 that I thought was a parts tractor. As you may
> recall it was stuck but had a bunch of valuable stuff on it. I was able to
> break it loose and get it running but the starter was messed up so I had to
> pull start it to get it running.
>
> Well it got put in the back of the shed and ignored since then however, I
> did take the starter all apart and cleaned it up and the only thing that I
> couldn't fix was the starter switch. I got a new one of those and finally
> got around to adding that and everything worked great off the tractor. So
> yesterday I installed it and it worked flawlessly when I got a good battery!
> :-).
>
> In the process I found out I've had two more 12 v batteries go south so went
> and picked up a new one today. Installed it and the starter spun the tractor
> over very well but it wouldn't start. No spark, points corroded, fixed that,
> still wouldn't start. Gas stale, drained gas, put in new. Tried again,
> popped right off and ran nicely. Shut it down quickly because I hadn't added
> water yet. Filled the radiator with water and had a water leak I hadn't
> observed before. Oh, I didn't tighten the plug good and tight, no leak there
> any more but one next to it. Where is that coming from? Upper water pipe has
> a rust through hole, water exiting onto block and head dripping next to
> drain plug. @#$%^&. Oh joy. But the leak isn't bad enough to keep me from
> running this for a bit.
>
> Filled radiator and then proceeded to try to start the tractor again. Engine
> locks up starter Bendix gear makes terrible sound. Hand turn flywheel and
> sure enough a hydraulic lock on the cylinders. Now what do I have a cracked
> block or head or something? No water in it all last winter and it didn't
> have this trouble before. Weird! Pulled plugs, sure enough both cylinders
> full of gas not water. Haven't had this before either. Removed gas from
> cylinders, pulled carburetor bowl to see if the float and needle was
> shutting off gas properly. It wasn't. Removed float and needle from
> carburetor while carburetor still on tractor. Didn't find anything wrong.
> Blew seat clean with air and reassembled the carburetor. Now the float and
> needle is working. Must have got some dirt in the needle/seat interface when
> I drained the gas tank. Ok, now let's start this sucker again.
>
> Engage starter, terrible noise, Bendix gear having a tough time engaging
> ring gear. A couple tries and it eventually engages and the tractor starts
> right up. Gas tank has a leak as well but that I had observed before. So
> with a gas tank leak and a water leak I took it for a short ride outside the
> shop and put it back. All is cool.
>
> I need to find out what I did to the starter Bendix gear because the ring
> gear doesn't look all that worn. Another project.
>
> Finally now the question?
>
> But I have a question on the upper water pipe section. JD still sells them
> for a nice tidy sum of $57 plus two one dollar "O' ring gaskets. However, I
> have never done this procedure before. I have read posts on ATIS where it
> was mentioned that this pipe can be substituted with a common variety piece
> of pipe. What diameter, ID and OD, and what material should the pipe be made
> of? How is this pipe held in the two castings? Friction fit? If so how do
> you get the pipe out of the two castings to replace the pipe? I would
> appreciate input from anyone who has been down this road before. I guess one
> could get a whole assembly from a salvage yard but one never really knows
> how good that pipe might be either. Or maybe try to gas weld the hole in
> the pipe if the hole isn't too big and it's not rusted out elsewhere.
>
> When I pull the hood to find the gas leak, I'll try to fix the upper water
> pipe at the same time. I may be looking for a replacement gas tank as well.
> Anyone have a good one to sell?
>
> One step forward and two steps backward.
>
> Dean A. Van Peursem
> Snohomish, WA 98290
>
> I'm a walking storeroom of facts..... I've just lost the key to the
> storeroom door
>
> www.deerelegacy.com
>
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>
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