[AJD] 1930 GP Leaky Radiator, Ensign Carb, Air Cleaner

[bwhdon]

I'd use the Baars leak or stop leak stuff , pepper goes better on steaks.
did you check the bolts holding the botton tank on? You might try some
berrymans gas additive in the fuel , cleans out the gunck in the fuel line
and carbon in the uppper clylinders. Running with the chock on could be an
indication of a bad intake valve, but if you haven't taken the carb apart
and cleaned it out could be some old fuel restricting the fuel. You might
try turning the idle or power adjusting valves to see if it changes it, they
should be a turn to a turn and half. How cold is the carb? is it iceing up ?
Does this GP have the water injection valve?

Is the stuff in the air cleaner animal or vegtable fiber or is it the spun
metal that a good soaking in solvent would clean out? I think most JD's air
cleaners were soldered or spot welded together.

Don


----- Original Message -----
From: "Luke Tonneberger" <jdgp1930 at yahoo.com>
To: <antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Friday, October 08, 2004 4:29 AM
Subject: [AJD] 1930 GP Leaky Radiator, Ensign Carb, Air Cleaner


> Hi Everybody,
>
> I've been reading the list for a few weeks now and I have a few questions.
I picked up a 1930 GP on full steel a few weeks ago. Did a little governor
work to it, new sediment bowl gasket, cleaned the points up to get spark and
it fired it up. After running it a few times, the last time I ran it for 45
minutes or so and a leak developed near the bottom of the radiator, where
the radiator core meets the lower casting. It is still leaking, but not very
much. It has maybe leaked out a pints worth in a couple weeks time while
sitting. When it was hot and running it was dripping at a fairly good rate
but now it drips very little. I've heard of putting pepper in the radiator,
but not sure how much to put in there. I suppose I could also stop at NAPA
and buy some Baarrs radiator leak stuff, but don't know how good that stuff
is or if it will just gunk up the works.  Any advice or input would be
appreciated.
>
> After the tractor runs for 5 to 10 minutes it wants to die. I can about
half choke it or a little more than half and it will continue running good.
It will then run a little rich after another 5 minutes and I can take the
choke off. Then 5 to 10 minutes later it wants to die and I have to choke it
again. The carb feels cold when it is running. It sat for quite a few years
before I got it running. I didn't take the carb apart because I didn't want
anything to go sproing like taking apart the rope recoil on a lawnmower. The
fuel tank is really clean and the sediment bowl is also. Anything I should
look for or do? Should the carb be really cold when the tractor is running?
>
> One last question.... I took the air cleaner apart and had the canister in
hand. It looks like coarse hair in there with a tube running through the
middle with fine holes in it. I thought I would take the coarse hair stuff
out to clean the air filter. I couldn't get the works to slide out and
didn't want to ruin it so I just left it. How does the air cleaner come
apart so you can clean it out?
>
> Pictures of the GP can be seen here:
>
> http://www.oldengine.org/members/luket/gp/jdgp1930.html
>
> Luke Tonneberger
> Rockford, Michigan
> USA
>
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