[Farmall] The 22-36 Saga continues

[Jim Becker]

NO, NO, NO, you all have it all wrong.  Real trectors are rust colored,
don't have a battery but have dangling battery cables.  To see what a REAL
tractor looks like, pull out your Sept-Oct 2003 Red Power and look on pages
7 and 9.

Jim Becker        jim.becker at verizon.net

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Justin Weber" <jtweber at smig.net>
To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 12:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Farmall] The 22-36 Saga continues


> Not only do real tractors not have a battery, but real trucks also....
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Mike Schmudlach" <mschmudlach at charter.net>
> To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 10:55 AM
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] The 22-36 Saga continues
>
>
> > Bob Currie writes:
> > "cause as MOST of us know, real tractors are painted gray, and don't
have
> a
> > battery :)"
> >
> > MOST.......What do you mean MOST.
> > As I recall there is a guy I know on the left coast who makes a living
> with
> > a orange colored tractor that has a battery.
> > This is the same guy who thinks that Cheezwiz and "American" Cheese are
> > really cheese.  So i will take these comments with a grain of salt.
> > Even Karl owns tractors with batteries.  :-)
> >
> > I am really hurt.....all along I thought I was collecting REAL tractors.
> >
> > Signed,
> > Depressed in Swissconsin.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Bob Currie" <tractors at foothill.net>
> > To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2004 1:53 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Farmall] The 22-36 Saga continues
> >
> >
> > > Lane,
> > > Excellent account. I felt like I was right there with you during the
> > entire
> > > drill. It is one that I have gladly done many times with some of the
old
> > > stuff that has arrived in my shop. Not always with the same results,
but
> > > great fun never the less. I'm especially proud of you for using the
word
> > > "cranked" in your story, and the not the words "towed around the
yard"..
> > > cause as most of us know, real tractors are painted gray, and don't
have
> a
> > > battery :) The dyno stuff was very interesting. I don't have any of
that
> > > kind of equipment, but I would have liked to looked over your shoulder
> > > during the tests..Our good friend Karl Olmstead has a great, early
1929
> > > McDeering 22-36, and I'm sure your story will excite him to the point
> that
> > > he'll drop his home remodeling tools, climb down off the ladder, and
run
> > > out to the back forty to get "Ol Neihart", drag it into his shop area,
> and
> > > start the process..And it also goes without saying, (although I
willI),
> > > that any good resurrection story isn't complete without some pix. So,
> > thank
> > > you for those too.
> > >
> > > bobcurrie
> > >
> > >
> > >   At 07:55 PM 7/24/04, you wrote:
> > > >Before I begin the tale of the 22-36 I'd like to thank Karl and
Justin
> > for
> > > >their input on dealing with the oil pan sludge, dropping the pan was
a
> > > >necessary evil.
> > > >
> > > >Before I began I called Gordon Rice and ordered a new pan gasket to
be
> > sure
> > > >they were available.  In 3 days it arrived on my door step and I
began
> to
> > > >wallow in the slime.  Dropping that Big Ol' cast iron bath tub sized
> pan
> > was
> > > >not exactly fun. I had to enlist the help of a floor jack as well as
> > remove
> > > >the tie rod in order to drop it to the floor and slide it out. Sludge
> was
> > > >about an inch deep in the bottom of the pan so I scraped out what I
> could
> > > >and then washed out the rest with mineral spirits until it was "shiny
> > > >clean". While the pan was off I cleaned out the Purolator filter and
> > flushed
> > > >all the oil lines to make sure none of the sludge got into them.  The
> > base
> > > >of the Purolator was filled with heavy sludge and the element was
> covered
> > > >with a black crust.  The element cleaned up nice with a soft brush in
> the
> > > >parts washer. After the oil delivery system was all cleaned up, it
was
> > time
> > > >to apply the gasket and "Raise the Titanic Pan" into place.  This
took
> > two
> > > >people since holding the pan in place and starting the bolts were
> > > >impossible.  My Dad operated the floor jack while I grunted and
groaned
> > to
> > > >shift the pan in place for the bolts to line up.  After 3 or 4 bolts
> were
> > in
> > > >place the rest was child's play.  When all was snugged up and in
place
> I
> > > >added the 30W Low Ash oil; seemed like it would never fill up and
took
> > > >better part of a 5 gallon bucket.  Problem was the top Petcock was
> broken
> > > >and I couldn't get it open so I had to "eyeball" the level through
the
> > > >handholes on the opposite side of the engine.
> > > >
> > > >I forgot to mention but while I was waiting for the oil pan gasket I
> did
> > go
> > > >back to the transmission end of the tractor for one night.  I found a
> > third
> > > >drain plug in the transmission toward the front and was surprised to
> find
> > > >about a gallon of water hiding in this section of the transmission.
> This
> > > >was higher than the rest so I can't figure why this didn't drain out
> the
> > > >other holes.  I left it open not knowing if they were all
> interconnected
> > but
> > > >when I began adding the fresh 90W gear oil, it began to run out the
> front
> > > >plug hole after about 10 gallons.  The transmission took a total of
15
> > > >gallons before coming out the "full plug".
> > > >
> > > >Both rear tires were filled with calcium so I drained both off them,
> > > >refilled them with clear water and drained again and then added 2
> gallons
> > of
> > > >pure antifreeze to keep any water left in the tired from freezing.  I
> had
> > to
> > > >get new valves for both tires since both were leaking from calcium
> > damage.
> > > >
> > > >Now for the engine, I put four new W-20 plugs in since the old ones
> were
> > > >pretty sad looking although they worked last time it ran 4 years ago.
A
> > > >fresh E4A Magneto was also traded in for the old E4 since the impulse
> was
> > > >not working. Seemed like all should be in order for a test run and
> > believe
> > > >it or not it started on the first crank.  This was too good to be
> true -
> > and
> > > >YES it was too good to be true because after its maiden run I
couldn't
> > get
> > > >it started for 2 more nights.  Seems there was a carb
problem(flooding)
> > so
> > > >now it was time to tear that down.  I cleaned it up and put a new
> needle
> > and
> > > >seat in but the problem only got worse.  I tried floats from other
> parts
> > > >carbs I had lying around since the original seemed a little "heavy".
> > After
> > > >assembling and disassembling at least 10 times I decided to try the
old
> > > >needle and seat again.  Instant success this time; seemed like the
old
> > > >needle and seat worked better than the new one - no more flooding.
New
> > > >needle and seat is now in the trash.   Time to try it again but this
> time
> > it
> > > >took lots of cranking and gentle persuasion to get it to start and
keep
> > > >running.  Lots of smoke and coughing until the cylinders got
> un-flooded,
> > and
> > > >some fine tuning on the carb adjustments.  But after it got over its
> > initial
> > > >"fits" it ran like a fine watch.  It will usually start on the first
or
> > > >second crank every time now.
> > > >
> > > >I did some Dyno testing since I really would like to use this tractor
> in
> > the
> > > >local tractor pulls since it would probably be one of the oldest in
the
> > > >pulls and it should do fairly well.  The test results were nearly
> > identical
> > > >to the Nebraska Tractor Tests if I'm interpreting them correctly.  At
> > 535RPM
> > > >I was getting 40.5HP which is about the same as the Nebraska Tests.
I
> > > >decided to see how much lugging power it had and this is where the
> > results
> > > >really impressed me.  All the results can be seen on the pictures I'm
> > > >posting at the end of this post but to make a long story short, when
I
> > > >reached the point of diminishing returns which was 320RPM's I was
> getting
> > a
> > > >reading of 57HP.  I'd appreciate anyone's interpretation of these
> > figures,
> > > >they seem odd to me from other tractors I've tested.
> > > >
> > > >The Dyno was also helpful in dialing in the magneto advance and
retard
> > > >lever. After I found the "sweet spot", the slightest tweak of the
lever
> > > >either advance or retard would give a loss of 2 to 3 HP at maximum
RPM
> > > >
> > > >As always any comments always appreciated.  Pictures can be seen at:
> > > >
> > > >http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=3010962&a=31338268&pw=
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Lane Freeman
> > > >New Tripoli, PA