[Farmall] The 22-36 Saga continues

Mon Jul 26 10:29:55 PDT 2004

Not only do real tractors not have a battery, but real trucks also....

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Schmudlach" <mschmudlach at charter.net>
To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 10:55 AM
Subject: Re: [Farmall] The 22-36 Saga continues

> Bob Currie writes:
> "cause as MOST of us know, real tractors are painted gray, and don't have
a
> battery :)"
>
> MOST.......What do you mean MOST.
> As I recall there is a guy I know on the left coast who makes a living
with
> a orange colored tractor that has a battery.
> This is the same guy who thinks that Cheezwiz and "American" Cheese are
> really cheese.  So i will take these comments with a grain of salt.
> Even Karl owns tractors with batteries.  :-)
>
> I am really hurt.....all along I thought I was collecting REAL tractors.
>
> Signed,
> Depressed in Swissconsin.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bob Currie" <tractors at foothill.net>
> To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2004 1:53 PM
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] The 22-36 Saga continues
>
>
> > Lane,
> > Excellent account. I felt like I was right there with you during the
> entire
> > drill. It is one that I have gladly done many times with some of the old
> > stuff that has arrived in my shop. Not always with the same results, but
> > great fun never the less. I'm especially proud of you for using the word
> > "cranked" in your story, and the not the words "towed around the yard"..
> > cause as most of us know, real tractors are painted gray, and don't have
a
> > battery :) The dyno stuff was very interesting. I don't have any of that
> > kind of equipment, but I would have liked to looked over your shoulder
> > during the tests..Our good friend Karl Olmstead has a great, early 1929
> > McDeering 22-36, and I'm sure your story will excite him to the point
that
> > he'll drop his home remodeling tools, climb down off the ladder, and run
> > out to the back forty to get "Ol Neihart", drag it into his shop area,
and
> > start the process..And it also goes without saying, (although I willI),
> > that any good resurrection story isn't complete without some pix. So,
> thank
> > you for those too.
> >
> > bobcurrie
> >
> >
> >   At 07:55 PM 7/24/04, you wrote:
> > >Before I begin the tale of the 22-36 I'd like to thank Karl and Justin
> for
> > >their input on dealing with the oil pan sludge, dropping the pan was a
> > >necessary evil.
> > >
> > >Before I began I called Gordon Rice and ordered a new pan gasket to be
> sure
> > >they were available.  In 3 days it arrived on my door step and I began
to
> > >wallow in the slime.  Dropping that Big Ol' cast iron bath tub sized
pan
> was
> > >not exactly fun. I had to enlist the help of a floor jack as well as
> remove
> > >the tie rod in order to drop it to the floor and slide it out. Sludge
was
> > >about an inch deep in the bottom of the pan so I scraped out what I
could
> > >and then washed out the rest with mineral spirits until it was "shiny
> > >clean". While the pan was off I cleaned out the Purolator filter and
> flushed
> > >all the oil lines to make sure none of the sludge got into them.  The
> base
> > >of the Purolator was filled with heavy sludge and the element was
covered
> > >with a black crust.  The element cleaned up nice with a soft brush in
the
> > >parts washer. After the oil delivery system was all cleaned up, it was
> time
> > >to apply the gasket and "Raise the Titanic Pan" into place.  This took
> two
> > >people since holding the pan in place and starting the bolts were
> > >impossible.  My Dad operated the floor jack while I grunted and groaned
> to
> > >shift the pan in place for the bolts to line up.  After 3 or 4 bolts
were
> in
> > >place the rest was child's play.  When all was snugged up and in place
I
> > >added the 30W Low Ash oil; seemed like it would never fill up and took
> > >better part of a 5 gallon bucket.  Problem was the top Petcock was
broken
> > >and I couldn't get it open so I had to "eyeball" the level through the
> > >handholes on the opposite side of the engine.
> > >
> > >I forgot to mention but while I was waiting for the oil pan gasket I
did
> go
> > >back to the transmission end of the tractor for one night.  I found a
> third
> > >drain plug in the transmission toward the front and was surprised to
find
> > >about a gallon of water hiding in this section of the transmission.
This
> > >was higher than the rest so I can't figure why this didn't drain out
the
> > >other holes.  I left it open not knowing if they were all
interconnected
> but
> > >when I began adding the fresh 90W gear oil, it began to run out the
front
> > >plug hole after about 10 gallons.  The transmission took a total of 15
> > >gallons before coming out the "full plug".
> > >
> > >Both rear tires were filled with calcium so I drained both off them,
> > >refilled them with clear water and drained again and then added 2
gallons
> of
> > >pure antifreeze to keep any water left in the tired from freezing.  I
had
> to
> > >get new valves for both tires since both were leaking from calcium
> damage.
> > >
> > >Now for the engine, I put four new W-20 plugs in since the old ones
were
> > >pretty sad looking although they worked last time it ran 4 years ago. A
> > >fresh E4A Magneto was also traded in for the old E4 since the impulse
was
> > >not working. Seemed like all should be in order for a test run and
> believe
> > >it or not it started on the first crank.  This was too good to be
true -
> and
> > >YES it was too good to be true because after its maiden run I couldn't
> get
> > >it started for 2 more nights.  Seems there was a carb problem(flooding)
> so
> > >now it was time to tear that down.  I cleaned it up and put a new
needle
> and
> > >seat in but the problem only got worse.  I tried floats from other
parts
> > >carbs I had lying around since the original seemed a little "heavy".
> After
> > >assembling and disassembling at least 10 times I decided to try the old
> > >needle and seat again.  Instant success this time; seemed like the old
> > >needle and seat worked better than the new one - no more flooding.  New
> > >needle and seat is now in the trash.   Time to try it again but this
time
> it
> > >took lots of cranking and gentle persuasion to get it to start and keep
> > >running.  Lots of smoke and coughing until the cylinders got
un-flooded,
> and
> > >some fine tuning on the carb adjustments.  But after it got over its
> initial
> > >"fits" it ran like a fine watch.  It will usually start on the first or
> > >second crank every time now.
> > >
> > >I did some Dyno testing since I really would like to use this tractor
in
> the
> > >local tractor pulls since it would probably be one of the oldest in the
> > >pulls and it should do fairly well.  The test results were nearly
> identical
> > >to the Nebraska Tractor Tests if I'm interpreting them correctly.  At
> 535RPM
> > >I was getting 40.5HP which is about the same as the Nebraska Tests.  I
> > >decided to see how much lugging power it had and this is where the
> results
> > >really impressed me.  All the results can be seen on the pictures I'm
> > >posting at the end of this post but to make a long story short, when I
> > >reached the point of diminishing returns which was 320RPM's I was
getting
> a
> > >reading of 57HP.  I'd appreciate anyone's interpretation of these
> figures,
> > >they seem odd to me from other tractors I've tested.
> > >
> > >The Dyno was also helpful in dialing in the magneto advance and retard
> > >lever. After I found the "sweet spot", the slightest tweak of the lever
> > >either advance or retard would give a loss of 2 to 3 HP at maximum RPM
> > >
> > >As always any comments always appreciated.  Pictures can be seen at:
> > >
> > >http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=3010962&a=31338268&pw=
> > >
> > >
> > >Lane Freeman
> > >New Tripoli, PA
> > >
> > >
> > >_______________________________________________
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> >
>
>
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