[Farmall] The 22-36 Saga continues

Mon Jul 26 20:33:46 PDT 2004

I will gladly agree with the rust comment....    I will have to say, that of
the letter series and earlier tractors I have, only 4 have starters (only 3
work), and of the 7 only 1 does not have a magneto (I love Magnetos)....  I
will stand corrected on my truck comment, as my 1911 Auto-Wagon has a
battery to aid in starting (hand crank), but is quickly switched over to
magneto ignition..   I do love tractors that can be started with a hand
crank..

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Becker" <jim.becker at verizon.net>
To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 7:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Farmall] The 22-36 Saga continues

> NO, NO, NO, you all have it all wrong.  Real trectors are rust colored,
> don't have a battery but have dangling battery cables.  To see what a REAL
> tractor looks like, pull out your Sept-Oct 2003 Red Power and look on
pages
> 7 and 9.
>
> Jim Becker        jim.becker at verizon.net
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Justin Weber" <jtweber at smig.net>
> To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 12:29 PM
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] The 22-36 Saga continues
>
>
> > Not only do real tractors not have a battery, but real trucks also....
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Mike Schmudlach" <mschmudlach at charter.net>
> > To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 10:55 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Farmall] The 22-36 Saga continues
> >
> >
> > > Bob Currie writes:
> > > "cause as MOST of us know, real tractors are painted gray, and don't
> have
> > a
> > > battery :)"
> > >
> > > MOST.......What do you mean MOST.
> > > As I recall there is a guy I know on the left coast who makes a living
> > with
> > > a orange colored tractor that has a battery.
> > > This is the same guy who thinks that Cheezwiz and "American" Cheese
are
> > > really cheese.  So i will take these comments with a grain of salt.
> > > Even Karl owns tractors with batteries.  :-)
> > >
> > > I am really hurt.....all along I thought I was collecting REAL
tractors.
> > >
> > > Signed,
> > > Depressed in Swissconsin.
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > From: "Bob Currie" <tractors at foothill.net>
> > > To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > > Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2004 1:53 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [Farmall] The 22-36 Saga continues
> > >
> > >
> > > > Lane,
> > > > Excellent account. I felt like I was right there with you during the
> > > entire
> > > > drill. It is one that I have gladly done many times with some of the
> old
> > > > stuff that has arrived in my shop. Not always with the same results,
> but
> > > > great fun never the less. I'm especially proud of you for using the
> word
> > > > "cranked" in your story, and the not the words "towed around the
> yard"..
> > > > cause as most of us know, real tractors are painted gray, and don't
> have
> > a
> > > > battery :) The dyno stuff was very interesting. I don't have any of
> that
> > > > kind of equipment, but I would have liked to looked over your
shoulder
> > > > during the tests..Our good friend Karl Olmstead has a great, early
> 1929
> > > > McDeering 22-36, and I'm sure your story will excite him to the
point
> > that
> > > > he'll drop his home remodeling tools, climb down off the ladder, and
> run
> > > > out to the back forty to get "Ol Neihart", drag it into his shop
area,
> > and
> > > > start the process..And it also goes without saying, (although I
> willI),
> > > > that any good resurrection story isn't complete without some pix.
So,
> > > thank
> > > > you for those too.
> > > >
> > > > bobcurrie
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >   At 07:55 PM 7/24/04, you wrote:
> > > > >Before I begin the tale of the 22-36 I'd like to thank Karl and
> Justin
> > > for
> > > > >their input on dealing with the oil pan sludge, dropping the pan
was
> a
> > > > >necessary evil.
> > > > >
> > > > >Before I began I called Gordon Rice and ordered a new pan gasket to
> be
> > > sure
> > > > >they were available.  In 3 days it arrived on my door step and I
> began
> > to
> > > > >wallow in the slime.  Dropping that Big Ol' cast iron bath tub
sized
> > pan
> > > was
> > > > >not exactly fun. I had to enlist the help of a floor jack as well
as
> > > remove
> > > > >the tie rod in order to drop it to the floor and slide it out.
Sludge
> > was
> > > > >about an inch deep in the bottom of the pan so I scraped out what I
> > could
> > > > >and then washed out the rest with mineral spirits until it was
"shiny
> > > > >clean". While the pan was off I cleaned out the Purolator filter
and
> > > flushed
> > > > >all the oil lines to make sure none of the sludge got into them.
The
> > > base
> > > > >of the Purolator was filled with heavy sludge and the element was
> > covered
> > > > >with a black crust.  The element cleaned up nice with a soft brush
in
> > the
> > > > >parts washer. After the oil delivery system was all cleaned up, it
> was
> > > time
> > > > >to apply the gasket and "Raise the Titanic Pan" into place.  This
> took
> > > two
> > > > >people since holding the pan in place and starting the bolts were
> > > > >impossible.  My Dad operated the floor jack while I grunted and
> groaned
> > > to
> > > > >shift the pan in place for the bolts to line up.  After 3 or 4
bolts
> > were
> > > in
> > > > >place the rest was child's play.  When all was snugged up and in
> place
> > I
> > > > >added the 30W Low Ash oil; seemed like it would never fill up and
> took
> > > > >better part of a 5 gallon bucket.  Problem was the top Petcock was
> > broken
> > > > >and I couldn't get it open so I had to "eyeball" the level through
> the
> > > > >handholes on the opposite side of the engine.
> > > > >
> > > > >I forgot to mention but while I was waiting for the oil pan gasket
I
> > did
> > > go
> > > > >back to the transmission end of the tractor for one night.  I found
a
> > > third
> > > > >drain plug in the transmission toward the front and was surprised
to
> > find
> > > > >about a gallon of water hiding in this section of the transmission.
> > This
> > > > >was higher than the rest so I can't figure why this didn't drain
out
> > the
> > > > >other holes.  I left it open not knowing if they were all
> > interconnected
> > > but
> > > > >when I began adding the fresh 90W gear oil, it began to run out the
> > front
> > > > >plug hole after about 10 gallons.  The transmission took a total of
> 15
> > > > >gallons before coming out the "full plug".
> > > > >
> > > > >Both rear tires were filled with calcium so I drained both off
them,
> > > > >refilled them with clear water and drained again and then added 2
> > gallons
> > > of
> > > > >pure antifreeze to keep any water left in the tired from freezing.
I
> > had
> > > to
> > > > >get new valves for both tires since both were leaking from calcium
> > > damage.
> > > > >
> > > > >Now for the engine, I put four new W-20 plugs in since the old ones
> > were
> > > > >pretty sad looking although they worked last time it ran 4 years
ago.
> A
> > > > >fresh E4A Magneto was also traded in for the old E4 since the
impulse
> > was
> > > > >not working. Seemed like all should be in order for a test run and
> > > believe
> > > > >it or not it started on the first crank.  This was too good to be
> > true -
> > > and
> > > > >YES it was too good to be true because after its maiden run I
> couldn't
> > > get
> > > > >it started for 2 more nights.  Seems there was a carb
> problem(flooding)
> > > so
> > > > >now it was time to tear that down.  I cleaned it up and put a new
> > needle
> > > and
> > > > >seat in but the problem only got worse.  I tried floats from other
> > parts
> > > > >carbs I had lying around since the original seemed a little
"heavy".
> > > After
> > > > >assembling and disassembling at least 10 times I decided to try the
> old
> > > > >needle and seat again.  Instant success this time; seemed like the
> old
> > > > >needle and seat worked better than the new one - no more flooding.
> New
> > > > >needle and seat is now in the trash.   Time to try it again but
this
> > time
> > > it
> > > > >took lots of cranking and gentle persuasion to get it to start and
> keep
> > > > >running.  Lots of smoke and coughing until the cylinders got
> > un-flooded,
> > > and
> > > > >some fine tuning on the carb adjustments.  But after it got over
its
> > > initial
> > > > >"fits" it ran like a fine watch.  It will usually start on the
first
> or
> > > > >second crank every time now.
> > > > >
> > > > >I did some Dyno testing since I really would like to use this
tractor
> > in
> > > the
> > > > >local tractor pulls since it would probably be one of the oldest in
> the
> > > > >pulls and it should do fairly well.  The test results were nearly
> > > identical
> > > > >to the Nebraska Tractor Tests if I'm interpreting them correctly.
At
> > > 535RPM
> > > > >I was getting 40.5HP which is about the same as the Nebraska Tests.
> I
> > > > >decided to see how much lugging power it had and this is where the
> > > results
> > > > >really impressed me.  All the results can be seen on the pictures
I'm
> > > > >posting at the end of this post but to make a long story short,
when
> I
> > > > >reached the point of diminishing returns which was 320RPM's I was
> > getting
> > > a
> > > > >reading of 57HP.  I'd appreciate anyone's interpretation of these
> > > figures,
> > > > >they seem odd to me from other tractors I've tested.
> > > > >
> > > > >The Dyno was also helpful in dialing in the magneto advance and
> retard
> > > > >lever. After I found the "sweet spot", the slightest tweak of the
> lever
> > > > >either advance or retard would give a loss of 2 to 3 HP at maximum
> RPM
> > > > >
> > > > >As always any comments always appreciated.  Pictures can be seen
at:
> > > > >
> > > > >http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=3010962&a=31338268&pw=
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >Lane Freeman
> > > > >New Tripoli, PA
>
>
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