Using tractor driventillers(wasRe:[AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn tractor

Gilbert Schwartz gschwartz1 at mchsi.com
Fri Jul 16 07:58:03 PDT 2004 

You're right there Larry. I'd forgot about those. Like you, I've replaced a
bunch of those also. Got to the point I'd use a short piece of solid core
solder as a replacement. Gil
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry D. Goss" <rlgoss at evansville.net>
To: "'Antique tractor email discussion group'"
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2004 3:58 PM
Subject: RE: Using tractor driventillers(wasRe:[AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn
tractor


> On the other hand, one application of shear pins that works the way it's
> supposed to is the key in the hub of B&S lawn mower engines.  I've lost
> track of how many of those I've had to pry the flywheel off of after the
> owner has hit a root or water pipe in their lawn.
>
> Larry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Gilbert
> Schwartz
> Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2004 11:23 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers(wasRe:[AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn
> tractor
>
> Charlie; Now that you mention it I don't remember a shear pin doing what
> it's supposed to do, when it's supposed to do it. I did twist off the
> gearbox input shaft when I hit a broken off fence post and the clutch
> didn't
> do it's slipping business. Happened to have another gearbox but couldn't
> get
> the clutch to slip so went to a shear pin probably mostly for peace of
> mind.Started with soft bolts and after getting tired of crawling off and
> on
> the tractor went to harder bolts. Haven't had any trouble since but then
> haven't hit anything really unmovable either. I don't generally run very
> hard with a brush cutter and definitely not fast. It seems like it's too
> easy to run over the ground without cutting off what you're there for. I
> kind of like to give the thing a chance to do it's thing. That heavy,
> spinning inertia seems hard to start and really hard to stop Gil
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "charlie hill" <chill8 at cox.net>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 4:44 PM
> Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers
> (wasRe:[AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn
> tractor
>
>
> > Haha,  I can't help but laugh Gil as I have never had a shear pin to
> work
> > when it should (not saying that it won't work for you).  The first
> time I
> > ever dealt with a shear pin was in an AC bush hog my dad bought with
> his
> > D-10 in 1959.  It was bronze or some sort of yellow allow.  If I
> remember
> > right they cost $13 each way back then.   I could hit a stump or a big
> clump
> > of dirt/grass so hard that it would cut the engine off just as if you
> turned
> > off the switch but the shear pin wouldn't break.  However,  I could be
> > mowing along in a pasture and the thing would break and fall out.
> >
> > In all the years since I have always had that same experience with
> shear
> > pins/bolts.  I used every grade and type I could find but all with the
> same
> > results.  I finally started using grade 8 bolts because it takes them
> longer
> > to wear out and break than anything else.  They aren't going to shear
> when
> > you want them to so why not?
> >
> > I hope you have better luck!
> >
> > Charlie
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Gilbert Schwartz" <gschwartz1 at mchsi.com>
> > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 1:46 PM
> > Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was
> Re:[AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn
> > tractor
> >
> >
> > > Charlie; The worst part is that it looks like it should work just
> fine
> but
> > > it won't slip in any way. We even tried to take it apart enough to
> make
> it
> > > slip and finally gave up on it. Went the old shear pin route. Gil
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > From: "charlie hill" <chill8 at cox.net>
> > > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 6:52 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re:
> > [AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn
> > > tractor
> > >
> > >
> > > > Gil,  I added one to my Woods brush cutter recently after I
> twisted
> the
> > > > original PTO shaft up like a soda straw.  It took me a while to
> get it
> > > > adjust right but I like it.  I'm glad you mentioned the rust
> problem.
> I
> > > > hadn't thought of that.  I think I'll make a habit of putting a
> little
> > > > penetrating oil on mine.
> > > >
> > > > Charlie
> > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > From: "Gilbert Schwartz" <gschwartz1 at mchsi.com>
> > > > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> > > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 8:14 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re: [AT]
> > > AllisChalmersB-1lawn
> > > > tractor
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Older model Ford brush cutters use that friction plate clutch.
> The
> > thing
> > > > > works pretty good but it rusts to a solid mass if the cutter
> sits
> > > outside
> > > > > much. At that point the gearbox input shaft twists off between
> that
> > > "used
> > > > to
> > > > > be a clutch" and the gearbox. Usually so close to the gearbox it
> > > requires
> > > > a
> > > > > new input shaft. Don't ask how I know. Gil
> > > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > > From: "charlie hill" <chill8 at cox.net>
> > > > > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> > > > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > > > > Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 3:52 PM
> > > > > Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re: [AT] Allis
> > > > > ChalmersB-1lawn tractor
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > Cecil,  remember that your D-12 III has (or probably has) a
> wet
> > clutch
> > > > in
> > > > > > the PTO housing.  The clutch plates are mounted in an aluminum
> hub.
> > > Ask
> > > > > me
> > > > > > how I know.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I think part of the problem with roto-tillers is that people
> don't
> > use
> > > > > them
> > > > > > correctly.  They are intended to prepare a seed bed in good
> soil.
> > > They
> > > > > > aren't meant to be scarifiers for digging up rocks, stumps,
> asphalt
> > > and
> > > > > > concrete.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I wonder if there is room to put a friction clutch in front of
> your
> > > > > > roto-tiller?  You know, the kind that you see on the drive
> shaft
> of
> > > some
> > > > > > brush cutters.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Charlie
> > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > > > From: "Cecil E Monson" <cmonson at hvc.rr.com>
> > > > > > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> > > > > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > > > > > Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 7:50 AM
> > > > > > Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re: [AT] Allis
> > Chalmers
> > > > > > B-1lawn tractor
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > After reading the posts on using tractor mounted rototillers
> > > > > > > I'll be sure to use the float position on the hydraulic
> controls.
> > > With
> > > > > > > my D-12 III, I can set the depth also but I don't want rocks
> > tearing
> > > > up
> > > > > > > the PTO drive either so the float is a good idea.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Cecil
> > > > > > > -- 
> > > > > > > The nicest thing about telling the truth is you never have
> to
> > wonder
> > > > > > > what you said.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Cecil E Monson
> > > > > > > Lucille Hand-Monson
> > > > > > > Mountainville, New York   Just a little east of the North
> Pole
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Allis Chalmers tractors and equipment
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Free advice
> > > > > > >
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