Using tractor driven tillers(wasRe:[AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn tractor

[Larry D. Goss]

On the other hand, one application of shear pins that works the way it's
supposed to is the key in the hub of B&S lawn mower engines.  I've lost
track of how many of those I've had to pry the flywheel off of after the
owner has hit a root or water pipe in their lawn.

Larry

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Gilbert
Schwartz
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2004 11:23 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers(wasRe:[AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn
tractor

Charlie; Now that you mention it I don't remember a shear pin doing what
it's supposed to do, when it's supposed to do it. I did twist off the
gearbox input shaft when I hit a broken off fence post and the clutch
didn't
do it's slipping business. Happened to have another gearbox but couldn't
get
the clutch to slip so went to a shear pin probably mostly for peace of
mind.Started with soft bolts and after getting tired of crawling off and
on
the tractor went to harder bolts. Haven't had any trouble since but then
haven't hit anything really unmovable either. I don't generally run very
hard with a brush cutter and definitely not fast. It seems like it's too
easy to run over the ground without cutting off what you're there for. I
kind of like to give the thing a chance to do it's thing. That heavy,
spinning inertia seems hard to start and really hard to stop Gil
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "charlie hill" <chill8 at cox.net>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 4:44 PM
Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers
(wasRe:[AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn
tractor


> Haha,  I can't help but laugh Gil as I have never had a shear pin to
work
> when it should (not saying that it won't work for you).  The first
time I
> ever dealt with a shear pin was in an AC bush hog my dad bought with
his
> D-10 in 1959.  It was bronze or some sort of yellow allow.  If I
remember
> right they cost $13 each way back then.   I could hit a stump or a big
clump
> of dirt/grass so hard that it would cut the engine off just as if you
turned
> off the switch but the shear pin wouldn't break.  However,  I could be
> mowing along in a pasture and the thing would break and fall out.
>
> In all the years since I have always had that same experience with
shear
> pins/bolts.  I used every grade and type I could find but all with the
same
> results.  I finally started using grade 8 bolts because it takes them
longer
> to wear out and break than anything else.  They aren't going to shear
when
> you want them to so why not?
>
> I hope you have better luck!
>
> Charlie
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Gilbert Schwartz" <gschwartz1 at mchsi.com>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 1:46 PM
> Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was
Re:[AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn
> tractor
>
>
> > Charlie; The worst part is that it looks like it should work just
fine
but
> > it won't slip in any way. We even tried to take it apart enough to
make
it
> > slip and finally gave up on it. Went the old shear pin route. Gil
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "charlie hill" <chill8 at cox.net>
> > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 6:52 AM
> > Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re:
> [AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn
> > tractor
> >
> >
> > > Gil,  I added one to my Woods brush cutter recently after I
twisted
the
> > > original PTO shaft up like a soda straw.  It took me a while to
get it
> > > adjust right but I like it.  I'm glad you mentioned the rust
problem.
I
> > > hadn't thought of that.  I think I'll make a habit of putting a
little
> > > penetrating oil on mine.
> > >
> > > Charlie
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > From: "Gilbert Schwartz" <gschwartz1 at mchsi.com>
> > > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 8:14 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re: [AT]
> > AllisChalmersB-1lawn
> > > tractor
> > >
> > >
> > > > Older model Ford brush cutters use that friction plate clutch.
The
> thing
> > > > works pretty good but it rusts to a solid mass if the cutter
sits
> > outside
> > > > much. At that point the gearbox input shaft twists off between
that
> > "used
> > > to
> > > > be a clutch" and the gearbox. Usually so close to the gearbox it
> > requires
> > > a
> > > > new input shaft. Don't ask how I know. Gil
> > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > From: "charlie hill" <chill8 at cox.net>
> > > > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> > > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 3:52 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re: [AT] Allis
> > > > ChalmersB-1lawn tractor
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Cecil,  remember that your D-12 III has (or probably has) a
wet
> clutch
> > > in
> > > > > the PTO housing.  The clutch plates are mounted in an aluminum
hub.
> > Ask
> > > > me
> > > > > how I know.
> > > > >
> > > > > I think part of the problem with roto-tillers is that people
don't
> use
> > > > them
> > > > > correctly.  They are intended to prepare a seed bed in good
soil.
> > They
> > > > > aren't meant to be scarifiers for digging up rocks, stumps,
asphalt
> > and
> > > > > concrete.
> > > > >
> > > > > I wonder if there is room to put a friction clutch in front of
your
> > > > > roto-tiller?  You know, the kind that you see on the drive
shaft
of
> > some
> > > > > brush cutters.
> > > > >
> > > > > Charlie
> > > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > > From: "Cecil E Monson" <cmonson at hvc.rr.com>
> > > > > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> > > > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > > > > Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 7:50 AM
> > > > > Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re: [AT] Allis
> Chalmers
> > > > > B-1lawn tractor
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > After reading the posts on using tractor mounted rototillers
> > > > > > I'll be sure to use the float position on the hydraulic
controls.
> > With
> > > > > > my D-12 III, I can set the depth also but I don't want rocks
> tearing
> > > up
> > > > > > the PTO drive either so the float is a good idea.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Cecil
> > > > > > -- 
> > > > > > The nicest thing about telling the truth is you never have
to
> wonder
> > > > > > what you said.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Cecil E Monson
> > > > > > Lucille Hand-Monson
> > > > > > Mountainville, New York   Just a little east of the North
Pole
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Allis Chalmers tractors and equipment
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Free advice
> > > > > >
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