Using tractor driven tillers(wasRe:[AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn tractor

charlie hill chill8 at cox.net
Thu Jul 15 15:04:46 PDT 2004 

Gil,  I do some commercial mowing.  Not a lot but I have a couple of really
good customers.  I have about found all the bad spots on the guy paths of
the transmission towers I mow but every now and then I hit something hard.
Unlike some guys who go slow and charge by the hour I go at it hard and fast
and charge a flat rate. ( To do what I do you have to be lucky and so far I
have been.)   When I hit something the normal reaction of the tractor is
wheel spinning, black smoke (and it's gas) and lots of bad noise from the
bush hog.  It's not uncommon for it to just cut the tractor off as if I
turned the key.  I've never broken anything, including shear bolts, but
there is no telling how much damage I've done to gears, etc. over the years.
I did twist up that pto shaft year before last.

When the shear bolts break I'm always running along easy.  Usually about 20
minutes from finishing a job and a long ways from my tool box.

Charlie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gilbert Schwartz" <gschwartz1 at mchsi.com>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2004 12:22 PM
Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers(wasRe:[AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn
tractor


> Charlie; Now that you mention it I don't remember a shear pin doing what
> it's supposed to do, when it's supposed to do it. I did twist off the
> gearbox input shaft when I hit a broken off fence post and the clutch
didn't
> do it's slipping business. Happened to have another gearbox but couldn't
get
> the clutch to slip so went to a shear pin probably mostly for peace of
> mind.Started with soft bolts and after getting tired of crawling off and
on
> the tractor went to harder bolts. Haven't had any trouble since but then
> haven't hit anything really unmovable either. I don't generally run very
> hard with a brush cutter and definitely not fast. It seems like it's too
> easy to run over the ground without cutting off what you're there for. I
> kind of like to give the thing a chance to do it's thing. That heavy,
> spinning inertia seems hard to start and really hard to stop Gil
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "charlie hill" <chill8 at cox.net>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 4:44 PM
> Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (wasRe:[AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn
> tractor
>
>
> > Haha,  I can't help but laugh Gil as I have never had a shear pin to
work
> > when it should (not saying that it won't work for you).  The first time
I
> > ever dealt with a shear pin was in an AC bush hog my dad bought with his
> > D-10 in 1959.  It was bronze or some sort of yellow allow.  If I
remember
> > right they cost $13 each way back then.   I could hit a stump or a big
> clump
> > of dirt/grass so hard that it would cut the engine off just as if you
> turned
> > off the switch but the shear pin wouldn't break.  However,  I could be
> > mowing along in a pasture and the thing would break and fall out.
> >
> > In all the years since I have always had that same experience with shear
> > pins/bolts.  I used every grade and type I could find but all with the
> same
> > results.  I finally started using grade 8 bolts because it takes them
> longer
> > to wear out and break than anything else.  They aren't going to shear
when
> > you want them to so why not?
> >
> > I hope you have better luck!
> >
> > Charlie
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Gilbert Schwartz" <gschwartz1 at mchsi.com>
> > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 1:46 PM
> > Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was
Re:[AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn
> > tractor
> >
> >
> > > Charlie; The worst part is that it looks like it should work just fine
> but
> > > it won't slip in any way. We even tried to take it apart enough to
make
> it
> > > slip and finally gave up on it. Went the old shear pin route. Gil
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > From: "charlie hill" <chill8 at cox.net>
> > > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 6:52 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re:
> > [AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn
> > > tractor
> > >
> > >
> > > > Gil,  I added one to my Woods brush cutter recently after I twisted
> the
> > > > original PTO shaft up like a soda straw.  It took me a while to get
it
> > > > adjust right but I like it.  I'm glad you mentioned the rust
problem.
> I
> > > > hadn't thought of that.  I think I'll make a habit of putting a
little
> > > > penetrating oil on mine.
> > > >
> > > > Charlie
> > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > From: "Gilbert Schwartz" <gschwartz1 at mchsi.com>
> > > > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> > > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 8:14 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re: [AT]
> > > AllisChalmersB-1lawn
> > > > tractor
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Older model Ford brush cutters use that friction plate clutch. The
> > thing
> > > > > works pretty good but it rusts to a solid mass if the cutter sits
> > > outside
> > > > > much. At that point the gearbox input shaft twists off between
that
> > > "used
> > > > to
> > > > > be a clutch" and the gearbox. Usually so close to the gearbox it
> > > requires
> > > > a
> > > > > new input shaft. Don't ask how I know. Gil
> > > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > > From: "charlie hill" <chill8 at cox.net>
> > > > > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> > > > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > > > > Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 3:52 PM
> > > > > Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re: [AT] Allis
> > > > > ChalmersB-1lawn tractor
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > Cecil,  remember that your D-12 III has (or probably has) a wet
> > clutch
> > > > in
> > > > > > the PTO housing.  The clutch plates are mounted in an aluminum
> hub.
> > > Ask
> > > > > me
> > > > > > how I know.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I think part of the problem with roto-tillers is that people
don't
> > use
> > > > > them
> > > > > > correctly.  They are intended to prepare a seed bed in good
soil.
> > > They
> > > > > > aren't meant to be scarifiers for digging up rocks, stumps,
> asphalt
> > > and
> > > > > > concrete.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I wonder if there is room to put a friction clutch in front of
> your
> > > > > > roto-tiller?  You know, the kind that you see on the drive shaft
> of
> > > some
> > > > > > brush cutters.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Charlie
> > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > > > From: "Cecil E Monson" <cmonson at hvc.rr.com>
> > > > > > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> > > > > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > > > > > Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 7:50 AM
> > > > > > Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re: [AT] Allis
> > Chalmers
> > > > > > B-1lawn tractor
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > After reading the posts on using tractor mounted rototillers
> > > > > > > I'll be sure to use the float position on the hydraulic
> controls.
> > > With
> > > > > > > my D-12 III, I can set the depth also but I don't want rocks
> > tearing
> > > > up
> > > > > > > the PTO drive either so the float is a good idea.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Cecil
> > > > > > > -- 
> > > > > > > The nicest thing about telling the truth is you never have to
> > wonder
> > > > > > > what you said.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Cecil E Monson
> > > > > > > Lucille Hand-Monson
> > > > > > > Mountainville, New York   Just a little east of the North Pole
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Allis Chalmers tractors and equipment
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Free advice
> > > > > > >
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