[AT] another new shop

[Rob Wilson]

Cecil,
 At the Power Show Ohio tool show they have here in Columbus around
January they always have tons of booths set up showing how to heat
with outdoor furnaces. The main thing if you plan on doing the heat in
the floor system is to put down a good insulating blanket on the ground
prior to the pour. There is a company called Northwestern Ohio Foam
that makes a foam barrier that rolls out under your concrete. Check them
out this may also help in the unstable ground problems. As for the tubing
that carries the heated liquid there's a few places that carry aluminum 
reinforced nylon tubing and stands to put into the barrier to hold it off
the surface. If you want I might be able to locate the name of the place
that I got the sample tubing from. 
Rob 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cecil E Monson" <cmonson at hvc.rr.com>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 08, 2004 10:10 AM
Subject: [AT] another new shop


> It looks like I may get a chance to design another new shop
> and put it up in the coming year. I have a list of things I am going
> to change from the way I built the shop I have now. One thing I am
> going to add is an auxiliary hot water heating system that will heat
> the house and the new shop from one location. There will be an oil
> burning furnace that will handle both locations also and it will shut
> down if the wood furnace is going.
> 
> Which brings me to the question.  Does anyone on the List have
> an outdoor furnace that is used this way?  The ones I am considering
> are the outdoor furnaces with a large firebox that stand out away from
> the buildings a ways and look like a little building. If you have one,
> what do you think of it and would you put in another one if the situation
> came up again?
> 
> Another question I have is concerning the concrete floor. On the
> new shop I have now, I specified 6" of concrete with steel laid on the
> whole thing and centered inside the slab. The pour was 36' X 48' and the
> thickness and the steel did nothing to stop cracking. I have a diagonal
> crack that did not spread but goes literally across the building from one
> front corner to an opposite rear corner. Before the floor was poured and
> while the building was under construction, I hauled and spread about 8"
> of 3/4" crushed stone over the entire floor and it was well compacted by
> the time the concrete was poured. I thought I had everything covered with
> the steel and the underlayment of stone but apparently not. I made sure
> when the concrete was poured that I was there and that the steel stayed
> in place so I know that was done. Maybe cracks are the way things go but
> I would just as soon not have any if I do it again.
> 
> Any comments will be appreciated.
> 
> Cecil
> -- 
> The nicest thing about telling the truth is you never have to wonder
> what you said.
> 
> Cecil E Monson
> Lucille Hand-Monson
> Mountainville, New York   Just a little east of the North Pole
> 
> Allis Chalmers tractors and equipment
> 
> Free advice
> 
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