[AT] 12,000 lb winches

Thu Apr 18 13:25:29 PDT 2024

Yup.

I didn't want to weld anything to the jack leg and what you don't see in 
the pictures is the tool box that normally lives on the tongue of the 
trailer. There is limited room to run the jack with it in place. The way 
it worked out there is a small gap under the winch plate receiver tube 
which could be filled in with something if I see the mount flexing. At 
this point I don't think it will. I also didn't think the top surface of 
the trailer frame provided enough weld bead area for a good bond with my 
welding skills. Besides, I try to not box myself into corners and as 
sure as I welded it down permanently I would regret it.

If my bolts into the frame prove to be not good enough, I can always 
drill them out and go bigger. :)

My winch and cables lives in the pickup tool box out of sight and out of 
the weather. It takes up some room but it is always with me unless I 
need the space in the toolbox. Better to have it and not need it....

On 4/18/24 15:02, Dean VP wrote:
> That is really interesting. I like the idea of making the winch 
> removable for use elsewhere but also so I could get it out of the wet 
> weather we have here in NW WA during the 9 month wet winter. I 
> wouldn't use it for at least 5 months while I am in AZ for the winter 
> anyway.  Your heavy channel iron that fits around the existing channel 
> iron the end of the trailer bed is an excellent idea. In my previous 
> thinking I wondered if I needed the receiver hitch to have a plate 
> under it to spread the torque load onto the bed boards. It appears you 
> expect the large channel iron bolted to the front of the trailer frame 
> bed to handle that. I need to look and see what spare channel iron I 
> have available to me.  Seems to me I have seen a commercial winch 
> frame set up for a receiver hitch so all I would have to fabricate is 
> the female tube that bolts to the front of the bed frame. I think even 
> with my limited welding experience I could weld up something that 
> would be strong enough. I am much better at stick welding heavy metal 
> than the thinner metals with my Lincoln buzz box.  Thanks for the tips.
>
> On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 06:31:50 AM PDT, Stuart Harner 
> <stuart at harnerfarm.net> wrote:
>
>
> Here is an el-cheapo HF 12,000# winch that I bought a few years ago. 
> It was on a really good sale and I had been thinking that someday I am 
> going to need a good winch.
>
> It came with a really nice  long jumper cable type cord with a quick 
> disconnect but no mounting plate. That was sold separately.
>
> I made the red plate to fit my receiver hitch. Advantage, it will work 
> on someone else's vehicle if needed. I also made the black receiver 
> from an old piece of scrap channel iron. The front rail on my trailer 
> won't let me mount it dead center and for some reason I decided that I 
> may have the need to remove it if some situation dictated, so it is 
> just bolted on. It will work left or right of center.
>
> I swapped the cables around putting the short end with the quick 
> connect on the winch, leaving the long end with the quick connect and 
> battery clamps loose. This also allows for portability to other vehicles.
>
> My thinking on the capacity and duty cycle is that capacity is the 
> maximum pull the winch can exert on the cable. The cable is rated 
> higher than that. Line speed is listed both at full load and no load. 
> Unfortunately all sales material lists the no load speed for 
> promotional purposes.
>
> Anything that rolls even if it weighs 12,000# will never need that 
> much force to move it, even on an incline up a ramp so the winch will 
> never see a max pull situation. I think the short duty cycle listing 
> is for full load, but at any rate, you need to monitor the motor temp 
> until you learn how much it can take. One of the biggest factors will 
> be battery cable size/voltage drop.
>
> Admittedly I have not had a need to use mine so in this case it is 
> just my theory. Hopefully others with more experience will chime in.
>
> Stuartn 4/18/24 00:40, Dean VP wrote:
>
> Since my accident I am unable to turn my head to the rear nearly as 
> much as I was able to in the past which wasn't all that good before as 
> I've gotten older.  But,,,,  I still want to load tractors on my 20' 
> tilt 10,400 lb GVW equipment trailer but in a little safer way than 
> before.  I tend to load tractors on backwards so I can get more weight 
> on the tongue since JD Two Cylinder tractors have about 70% of their 
> total weight on the rear axle. My heaviest Two Cylinder is a JD 720 LP 
> Standard which weighs close to 8000 lbs. So... my idea is to get a 
> 12,000 lb Winch mounted to the very front of the tilt bed and winch 
> tractors on rather than back them on. My thinking is to have a 
> cordless remote so I could sit in the seat of the tractor while it is 
> being pulled on so I could steer a bit if necessary.  I do have 
> removable fenders and the bed is 102" wide through the whole 20' 
> except between the tires so I don't have to be perfectly centered.  
> Now thinking of Winches i have decided that even though my heaviest 
> tractor is 8000 lbs I will be pulling up a slope so I need the extra 
> pulling capacity and I want the extra capacity to get a better duty 
> cycle.  If one looks at the specs of various winches Duty Cycle is not 
> even mentioned or conveniently hidden but if one digs deep enough you 
> will find worrying specs of winching 45 seconds under full load and 
> then have to wait 15 minutes.  That is not compatible with my needs. 
> Especially when typical winching speeds of 20 FPM are applied to a 20'
> trailer.  Initial looks at some higher priced winches gets better Duty 
> Cycles that appear to be acceptable. Then the winch specs are based on 
> which level the tow cable or rope is at which gets really confusing. I 
> am leaning toward getting a rope as opposed to a steel cable just 
> simply because how nasty steel cables can be. If necessary, I'm 
> willing to replace the rope occasionally if it wears out. I'm thinking 
> of using a steel plate that has a right angle that wraps around the 
> front end of the bed frame bolted in and then bolt the winch and plate 
> though the bed. I haven't found a commercial plate that does that so 
> may have to fabricate one. But given all those parameters, I am 
> interested in what ATIS members have found to work for them. Or 
> whatever brands are suggested for Winches and recommendations on how 
> to mount the winch on the bed of the trailer.  I don't want to spend 
> more than necessary but I also realize I can't lowball this. .Any 
> comments, suggestions and help will be appreciated.
>
>
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