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<p>Yup.</p>
<p>I didn't want to weld anything to the jack leg and what you don't
see in the pictures is the tool box that normally lives on the
tongue of the trailer. There is limited room to run the jack with
it in place. The way it worked out there is a small gap under the
winch plate receiver tube which could be filled in with something
if I see the mount flexing. At this point I don't think it will. I
also didn't think the top surface of the trailer frame provided
enough weld bead area for a good bond with my welding skills.
Besides, I try to not box myself into corners and as sure as I
welded it down permanently I would regret it.</p>
<p>If my bolts into the frame prove to be not good enough, I can
always drill them out and go bigger. :)<br>
</p>
<p>My winch and cables lives in the pickup tool box out of sight and
out of the weather. It takes up some room but it is always with me
unless I need the space in the toolbox. Better to have it and not
need it....</p>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/18/24 15:02, Dean VP wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">That is really interesting.
I like the idea of making the winch removable for use
elsewhere but also so I could get it out of the wet weather we
have here in NW WA during the 9 month wet winter. I wouldn't
use it for at least 5 months while I am in AZ for the winter
anyway. Your heavy channel iron that fits around the existing
channel iron the end of the trailer bed is an excellent idea.
In my previous thinking I wondered if I needed the receiver
hitch to have a plate under it to spread the torque load onto
the bed boards. It appears you expect the large channel iron
bolted to the front of the trailer frame bed to handle that.
I need to look and see what spare channel iron I have
available to me. Seems to me I have seen a commercial winch
frame set up for a receiver hitch so all I would have to
fabricate is the female tube that bolts to the front of the
bed frame. I think even with my limited welding experience I
could weld up something that would be strong enough. I am much
better at stick welding heavy metal than the thinner metals
with my Lincoln buzz box. Thanks for the tips.</div>
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<div> On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 06:31:50 AM PDT, Stuart
Harner <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:stuart@harnerfarm.net"><stuart@harnerfarm.net></a> wrote: </div>
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<p>Here is an el-cheapo HF 12,000# winch that I bought a
few years ago. It was on a really good sale and I had
been thinking that someday I am going to need a good
winch.</p>
<p>It came with a really nice long jumper cable type
cord with a quick disconnect but no mounting plate.
That was sold separately.</p>
<p>I made the red plate to fit my receiver hitch.
Advantage, it will work on someone else's vehicle if
needed. I also made the black receiver from an old
piece of scrap channel iron. The front rail on my
trailer won't let me mount it dead center and for some
reason I decided that I may have the need to remove it
if some situation dictated, so it is just bolted on.
It will work left or right of center.</p>
<p>I swapped the cables around putting the short end
with the quick connect on the winch, leaving the long
end with the quick connect and battery clamps loose.
This also allows for portability to other vehicles.</p>
<p>My thinking on the capacity and duty cycle is that
capacity is the maximum pull the winch can exert on
the cable. The cable is rated higher than that. Line
speed is listed both at full load and no load.
Unfortunately all sales material lists the no load
speed for promotional purposes. </p>
<p>Anything that rolls even if it weighs 12,000# will
never need that much force to move it, even on an
incline up a ramp so the winch will never see a max
pull situation. I think the short duty cycle listing
is for full load, but at any rate, you need to monitor
the motor temp until you learn how much it can take.
One of the biggest factors will be battery cable
size/voltage drop.</p>
<p>Admittedly I have not had a need to use mine so in
this case it is just my theory. Hopefully others with
more experience will chime in.</p>
<p>Stuartn 4/18/24 00:40, Dean VP wrote:</p>
<blockquote type="cite"> </blockquote>
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<div dir="ltr">Since my accident I am unable to turn
my head to the rear nearly as much as I was able
to in the past which wasn't all that good before
as I've gotten older. But,,,, I still want to
load tractors on my 20' tilt 10,400 lb GVW
equipment trailer but in a little safer way than
before. I tend to load tractors on backwards so I
can get more weight on the tongue since JD Two
Cylinder tractors have about 70% of their total
weight on the rear axle. My heaviest Two Cylinder
is a JD 720 LP Standard which weighs close to 8000
lbs. So... my idea is to get a 12,000 lb Winch
mounted to the very front of the tilt bed and
winch tractors on rather than back them on. My
thinking is to have a cordless remote so I could
sit in the seat of the tractor while it is being
pulled on so I could steer a bit if necessary. I
do have removable fenders and the bed is 102" wide
through the whole 20' except between the tires so
I don't have to be perfectly centered. Now
thinking of Winches i have decided that even
though my heaviest tractor is 8000 lbs I will be
pulling up a slope so I need the extra pulling
capacity and I want the extra capacity to get a
better duty cycle. If one looks at the specs of
various winches Duty Cycle is not even mentioned
or conveniently hidden but if one digs deep enough
you will find worrying specs of winching 45
seconds under full load and then have to wait 15
minutes. That is not compatible with my needs.
Especially when typical winching speeds of 20 FPM
are applied to a 20'</div>
<div dir="ltr">trailer. Initial looks at some
higher priced winches gets better Duty Cycles that
appear to be acceptable. Then the winch specs are
based on which level the tow cable or rope is at
which gets really confusing. I am leaning toward
getting a rope as opposed to a steel cable just
simply because how nasty steel cables can be. If
necessary, I'm willing to replace the rope
occasionally if it wears out. I'm thinking of
using a steel plate that has a right angle that
wraps around the front end of the bed frame bolted
in and then bolt the winch and plate though the
bed. I haven't found a commercial plate that does
that so may have to fabricate one. <span><span
style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;">But
given all those parameters, I am interested in
what ATIS members have found to work for them.
Or whatever brands are suggested for Winches
and recommendations on how to mount the winch
on the bed of the trailer. I don't want to
spend more than necessary but I also realize I
can't lowball this. .Any comments, suggestions
and help will be appreciated. </span></span></div>
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