[AT] Need some help, hard starting CR950 Briggs

Tue Feb 15 19:53:59 PST 2022

+I This morning (Tuesday) I rolled the log splitter out into the bright sun
and we  then spent the morning and early afternoon putting up an electric
horse fence around a field of corn stubble. about mid afternoon I walked to
the splitter, sat the choke and other settings and pulled the rope about 3
times and it started... I accidentally moved the throttle too far toward
turtle (science reference)  and it died.  I pulled the starter rope and it
started right up... We split about half a trailer load of dead but solid
elm blocks. It ran perfectly the whole time.
I might make a small well insulated room in one corner of the shop for the
wood splitter and the air compressor.

.

On Tue, Feb 15, 2022 at 9:19 AM Indiana Robinson <robinson46176 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Thanks guys...I need to use it this week and maybe next week. I'll be
> trying some things, especially Steve's LP trick. I wonder where I put those
> torches. :-)
> One thing on my side now is that it will be 50 degrees today and 60
> tomorrow. I may not need anything extra. I do know that one problem is the
> thick oil in the tank and it not having a way to clutch out the pump for
> starting.
> I'll try to keep you posted.
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 14, 2022 at 9:59 AM Stuart Harner <stuart at harnerfarm.net>
> wrote:
>
>> Remember the old fire triangle? Fuel-Air-Heat.
>>
>> With the ever more restrictive regulations filtering down to the smaller
>> engines the manufacturers have had to lean out the mix as far as possible.
>> If you were to put a pyrometer on one my guess is that at operating
>> temperature they are running on the lean side of peak.
>>
>> As air temp drops it gets more dense but without a choke to compensate
>> the mix is just too lean to light off. To make things worse they have taken
>> all of the adjustments away from the end user to prevent us from becoming
>> criminals against the regulations. I suspect it also makes the carbs easier
>> and cheaper to manufacture. If a bad one slips through, just replace it or
>> the engine because it is cheaper than figuring out the problem. We see this
>> in a lot more then carburetors.
>>
>> Changing to a lighter hydraulic fluid will help make it easier to spin
>> the engine faster when pulling the starter. I am not sure if that will help
>> make a hotter spark or not considering it probably has electronic ignition
>> anyway. Faster starting RPM could help with sucking in more fuel each
>> stroke but then that means more air to, so back to lean.
>>
>> I suspect that Farmer's engine sputters once in a while is that the raw
>> fuel builds up enough in the cylinder to cause a rich enough mixture to
>> fire once or twice. Once that is burned off, back to square one.
>>
>> I am not sure that adjusting the valves would help any unless there is a
>> way to lengthen the duration. Taking out all the backlash might cause the
>> valve to open a fraction sooner, but once everything is warm and expanded
>> there is a risk of it not closing fully and burning the valve or seat.
>>
>> To get a more rich mixture for starting you could try to restrict air
>> (like the old choke plates did) or add fuel like a primer does.
>>
>> I have a Knipco stye heater that will not light off at any air temp
>> unless I use both hands and cover as much of the air intake as possible. It
>> lights in less than a second and then runs fine. I have tried different
>> nozzles and moving the igniter around, but it still needs less air to get
>> going.
>>
>> On the 1978 motorcycle I once had it was a victim of early tampering with
>> emissions on motorcycles. When new it would not start on a cool day and it
>> had a manual choke. I rigged up a way to inject a little ether into the
>> airbox that was buried under the seat. Had to put 10,000 miles on that bike
>> before it got over that problem.
>>
>> The idea of using an unlit torch to add a little fuel sounds like a good
>> one. Red Green would just slap a little piece of duct tape on the air
>> intake until it warms up.
>>
>> Best of luck to Farmer getting this working.
>>
>> Stuart
>>
>>
>> On 2/14/22 01:34, Greg Hass wrote:
>>
>> I have a JD Zero Turn with 27 hp. Briggs engine and electric start.
>> Anything around 45 to 50 degrees and it just wouldn't start. It does not
>> idle good either, but the book says that is because of emissions control.
>> My brother has a Simplicity zero turn 3 years old and several times has
>> tried to start it in 40 degree and it just won't fire so it is not just my
>> mower. Both engines have fixed jets so no adjustment is possible. It is
>> possible other things could be wrong, but my only other idea is to make
>> sure it has fresh WINTER blend gas.
>>        Greg Hass
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Feb 13, 2022 at 8:15 AM Moe Fretz <tubetester at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Try this site, they should be able to help  you.
>>>
>>> http://ppeten.com/forums/search.php?search_id=newposts
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, Feb 12, 2022 at 18:51 Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi Farmer,
>>>>  Just a thought, my log splitter was hard to start in cold weather,
>>>> until I changed the hydraulic fluid from the OEM  fluid to transmission
>>>> fluid,a whole world of difference.
>>>>
>>>> Mike M
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 2/12/2022 9:24 PM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi farmer:  I'd have to think you've already been down this road, but,
>>>> I'll say for the record that I've had pretty decent luck downloading
>>>> manuals from the Briggs site.  But I haven't done it lately, and it's
>>>> always 20-year old stuff when I do.   The other thing I'll mention is the
>>>> good old unlit propane torch in the intake trick.  That's my go-to when
>>>> they're almost trying to start.  There's spark and fuel but the modern
>>>> carburetors are set lean for emissions and it just seems that the choke
>>>> doesn't quite get the mixture rich enough.
>>>>
>>>> Good luck,
>>>> Steve O.
>>>>
>>>> On Sat, Feb 12, 2022 at 7:43 PM Indiana Robinson <
>>>> robinson46176 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> We have a log splitter a couple of years old that has a OHV CR950
>>>>> Briggs. It only has a few hours on it but has become quite hard to start
>>>>> (recoil start). It is way too recent for my knowledge base... It seems that
>>>>> most things are these days. Apparently the OHV Brigg's have a cam bump
>>>>> "compression relief" I also understand that there is an important valve
>>>>> adjustment procedure that can normally improve starting problems. We can't
>>>>> find a site that gives a clear and understandable explanation of the
>>>>> procedure.
>>>>> Does anyone know of a site with a clear description of how to do it?
>>>>> It will usually start if it is sitting in the sun and the temp is at least
>>>>> 50... Yesterday at 45 degrees it "ALMOST" started 837 times... It keeps
>>>>> firing enough to keep you trying and trying...
>>>>> Thanks
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> --
>>>>>
>>>>> Francis Robinson
>>>>> aka "farmer"
>>>>> Central Indiana USA
>>>>> robinson46176 at gmail.com
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
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>>> --
>>> Moe Fretz
>>>
>>> L’Orignal ON,
>>> Canada
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>
>
> --
> --
>
> Francis Robinson
> aka "farmer"
> Central Indiana USA
> robinson46176 at gmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

-- 
-- 

Francis Robinson
aka "farmer"
Central Indiana USA
robinson46176 at gmail.com
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