[AT] BAD Tractor Day: need some advice
STEVE ALLEN
steveallen855 at centurytel.net
Sun Nov 21 13:32:57 PST 2021
Thanks for the advice, gents.
To Brian: we have never sensed any hint of noise, chatter, or grinding that indicates that the teeth might be remaining engaged. I do notice that the teeth do not slide all the way on the ring. If they did, I could get it to start. The engagement is 1/4" at best. I need to look into whether there is anyway to adjust that engagement. I would have thought more of the ring teeth would have been engaged.
So: moderate heat, a little pounding, hurling a tool, and harsh language are the proper procedure. Got it!
The "original" Steve Allen
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Today's Topics:
1. BAD Tractor Day: need some advice (STEVE ALLEN)
2. Re: BAD Tractor Day: need some advice (Mike M)
3. Re: BAD Tractor Day: need some advice (Brian VanDragt)
4. Re: BAD Tractor Day: need some advice (Carl Szabelski)
5. Re: Tractor battery (Stephen Offiler)
6. Diesel Fuel Question (Stephen Offiler)
7. Re: [External] Diesel Fuel Question (Gunnells, Brad R)
8. Re: [External] Diesel Fuel Question (rbrooks at hvc.rr.com)
9. Re: Diesel Fuel Question (Jason)
10. Re: Diesel Fuel Question (Stephen Offiler)
11. Re: Diesel Fuel Question (Mike M)
12. Re: Diesel Fuel Question (Jim Becker)
13. Re: Diesel Fuel Question (Indiana Robinson)
14. Re: [External] Diesel Fuel Question (Jim Thomson)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 2021 22:09:20 -0500 (EST)
From: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net>
To: at <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: [AT] BAD Tractor Day: need some advice
Message-ID:
<641133069.34661279.1637464160568.JavaMail.zimbra at centurytel.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
So our weather was quite nice today, and my son and I had planned a number of chores including putting the Christmas decoration boxes in the garage (from the shed) for easy access, doing a final mowing around the sheds, and brush-hogging the field.
When time came to crank up the '51 JD A, we went through the normal process--check oil, grease, gas in tank, touch up the plugs, check for condensation in the oil (none found), etc. Turned on the key, turned on the gas, and hit the started pedal: the starter just spins. Try again once or twice. Same.
In the past, we have every now and again had it spin once or twice, but never had it failed to engage on the third try. Must be a bad patch of teeth. so we took the spare steering wheel and the ratchet, and we pooped the center cover off the flywheel cover, and we turned the flywheel. Hit the pedal. No engagement.
I pulled the cap screws off the cover while I had my son disconnect the battery. I crawled under, and had him push down hard on the pedal while I peeked in with a flashlight. What I say dismayed me: the teeth are chewed up all the way around. I had him spin the flywheel. A few places had mostly intact teeth--say a loss of about 3/16 or a quarter inch at most. Some stretches had teeth chewed up all the way to the center.
I do not understand how we got to this point at all. I haven't ever looked before, but, as I said, we have only had rare instances of non-engagement, and the next time we hit the pedal, all was well. I expected a few bad spots, but I had no idea it was all around. We tried very hard to find a spot where the started could engage, but no such.
(We then hooked everything back up, and I tried using the wheel-and-ratchet to actually start the old guy, but I just couldn't get enough Ummph on the spin to start a cold tractor that hasn't run in a couple months. No joy at all.)
Now, if my none-too-trustworthy memory recalls correctly, the ring gear is not a part of the flywheel casting but just a ring of teeth fixed to it. If that's true, I think I can take it off and flip it around (or replace with the beautiful ring off the broken flywheel on the '49 A).
What would be the procedure for removing and reinstalling? Heat? Hammer? Harsh language?
Any insight on how we might have gone from what seemed like a few bad spots to a ruined ring (so I can try to avoid it again)?
The "original" Steve Allen
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 2021 22:22:59 -0500
From: Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com>
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: Re: [AT] BAD Tractor Day: need some advice
Message-ID: <3c9f5d68-090d-e7e0-aee0-b8e06f13d6f6 at gmx.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
Harsh language and throwing a tool has always worked for me.
Mike M
On 11/20/2021 10:09 PM, STEVE ALLEN wrote:
> So our weather was quite nice today, and my son and I had planned a number of chores including putting the Christmas decoration boxes in the garage (from the shed) for easy access, doing a final mowing around the sheds, and brush-hogging the field.
>
> When time came to crank up the '51 JD A, we went through the normal process--check oil, grease, gas in tank, touch up the plugs, check for condensation in the oil (none found), etc. Turned on the key, turned on the gas, and hit the started pedal: the starter just spins. Try again once or twice. Same.
>
> In the past, we have every now and again had it spin once or twice, but never had it failed to engage on the third try. Must be a bad patch of teeth. so we took the spare steering wheel and the ratchet, and we pooped the center cover off the flywheel cover, and we turned the flywheel. Hit the pedal. No engagement.
>
> I pulled the cap screws off the cover while I had my son disconnect the battery. I crawled under, and had him push down hard on the pedal while I peeked in with a flashlight. What I say dismayed me: the teeth are chewed up all the way around. I had him spin the flywheel. A few places had mostly intact teeth--say a loss of about 3/16 or a quarter inch at most. Some stretches had teeth chewed up all the way to the center.
>
> I do not understand how we got to this point at all. I haven't ever looked before, but, as I said, we have only had rare instances of non-engagement, and the next time we hit the pedal, all was well. I expected a few bad spots, but I had no idea it was all around. We tried very hard to find a spot where the started could engage, but no such.
>
> (We then hooked everything back up, and I tried using the wheel-and-ratchet to actually start the old guy, but I just couldn't get enough Ummph on the spin to start a cold tractor that hasn't run in a couple months. No joy at all.)
>
> Now, if my none-too-trustworthy memory recalls correctly, the ring gear is not a part of the flywheel casting but just a ring of teeth fixed to it. If that's true, I think I can take it off and flip it around (or replace with the beautiful ring off the broken flywheel on the '49 A).
>
> What would be the procedure for removing and reinstalling? Heat? Hammer? Harsh language?
>
> Any insight on how we might have gone from what seemed like a few bad spots to a ruined ring (so I can try to avoid it again)?
>
> The "original" Steve Allen
> _______________________________________________
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> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 2021 22:43:30 -0500
From: Brian VanDragt <bvandragt at comcast.net>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] BAD Tractor Day: need some advice
Message-ID:
<mailman.2.1637528429.13463.at-antique-tractor.com at lists.antique-tractor.com>
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You can drive the ring gear off with a hammer and punch. Use a torch to heat it up and it will drop right on the flywheel. It doesn't need to be red hot. I was surprised at how little heat was required when I did it.? Is the spring on your starter pedal okay and keeping the starter gear out of the flywheel while the tractor is running?
-------- Original message --------From: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net> Date: 11/20/21 10:09 PM (GMT-05:00) To: at <at at lists.antique-tractor.com> Subject: [AT] BAD Tractor Day: need some advice So our weather was quite nice today, and my son and I had planned a number of chores including putting the Christmas decoration boxes in the garage (from the shed) for easy access, doing a final mowing around the sheds, and brush-hogging the field.When time came to crank up the '51 JD A, we went through the normal process--check oil, grease, gas in tank, touch up the plugs, check for condensation in the oil (none found), etc.? Turned on the key, turned on the gas, and hit the started pedal:? the starter just spins.? Try again once or twice.? Same.In the past, we have every now and again had it spin once or twice, but never had it failed to engage on the third try. Must be a bad patch of teeth.? so we took the spare steering wheel and the ratchet, and we pooped the center cover of
f the flywheel cover, and we turned the flywheel.? Hit the pedal.? No engagement.I pulled the cap screws off the cover while I had my son disconnect the battery.? I crawled under, and had him push down hard on the pedal while I peeked in with a flashlight.? What I say dismayed me:? the teeth are chewed up all the way around.? I had him spin the flywheel.? A few places had mostly intact teeth--say a loss of about 3/16 or a quarter inch at most.? Some stretches had teeth chewed up all the way to the center.I do not understand how we got to this point at all.? I haven't ever looked before, but, as I said, we have only had rare instances of non-engagement, and the next time we hit the pedal, all was well.? I expected a few bad spots, but I had no idea it was all around.? We tried very hard to find a spot where the started could engage, but no such.? (We then hooked everything back up, and I tried using the wheel-and-ratchet to actually start the old guy, but I just couldn't get enough U
mmph on the spin to start a cold tractor that hasn't run in a couple months.? No joy at all.)Now, if my none-too-trustworthy memory recalls correctly, the ring gear is not a part of the flywheel casting but just a ring of teeth fixed to it.? If that's true, I think I can take it off and flip it around (or replace with the beautiful ring off the broken flywheel on the '49 A).What would be the procedure for removing and reinstalling?? Heat?? Hammer?? Harsh language?Any insight on how we might have gone from what seemed like a few bad spots to a ruined ring (so I can try to avoid it again)?The "original" Steve Allen_______________________________________________AT mailing listAT at lists.antique-tractor.comhttp://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2021 10:03:51 -0500
From: Carl Szabelski <c.s.szabelski at gmail.com>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] BAD Tractor Day: need some advice
Message-ID:
<CALdF5zfj-xe_per+c69L3FVvWQoKca91PQWmMmbRNAzqgw69bg at mail.gmail.com>
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If it is as you say, a ring fitted onto a casting, the process is the same
as putting any gear on a shaft, or putting the pulley on a Cub crankshaft.
Heat up the ring and place over a cold casting. The trick is to get it hot
enough, and uniformly heated. You usually need to get it up in the 330+
degree range to get it to expand a little. It also helps if you can cool
the casting so that it shrinks a little. When they put new tires on
railroad wheels, they use a gas fired ring system of torches that heat the
new tire in multiple spots to get it hot enough and evenly heated. When I
had to reinstall the front pulley on the Cub I put the pulley in the oven
and let it sit there for a while to get it hot. I had no way to cool down
the end of the shaft so it was room temp. Then I used a threaded rod and a
home made spacer with a nut to press it on.
Not knowing how large the ring is, you may have to do is get a good fire
going in the back yard and put the ring in it, otherwise try using an oven
and set it for as high as you can. You can try packing the casting in ice
to cool it down, or put it in the freezer for a day or two.
Whatever you do, keep in mind that the ring will start to cool as soon as
you remove it from the heat source, and the casting will start to warm as
soon as you remove it from it?s cooling source. You can try to minimize the
loss of heat by hitting the ring with a torch while getting it ready for
the install. Also, once the two come into contact with each other, they
will start to set pretty fast. So you want to set the ring on the casting
as accurately as possible, and be ready to drive it one way or the other to
get it properly positioned before it grabs.
Good luck
Carl
On Saturday, November 20, 2021, STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net>
wrote:
> So our weather was quite nice today, and my son and I had planned a number
> of chores including putting the Christmas decoration boxes in the garage
> (from the shed) for easy access, doing a final mowing around the sheds, and
> brush-hogging the field.
>
> When time came to crank up the '51 JD A, we went through the normal
> process--check oil, grease, gas in tank, touch up the plugs, check for
> condensation in the oil (none found), etc. Turned on the key, turned on
> the gas, and hit the started pedal: the starter just spins. Try again
> once or twice. Same.
>
> In the past, we have every now and again had it spin once or twice, but
> never had it failed to engage on the third try. Must be a bad patch of
> teeth. so we took the spare steering wheel and the ratchet, and we pooped
> the center cover off the flywheel cover, and we turned the flywheel. Hit
> the pedal. No engagement.
>
> I pulled the cap screws off the cover while I had my son disconnect the
> battery. I crawled under, and had him push down hard on the pedal while I
> peeked in with a flashlight. What I say dismayed me: the teeth are chewed
> up all the way around. I had him spin the flywheel. A few places had
> mostly intact teeth--say a loss of about 3/16 or a quarter inch at most.
> Some stretches had teeth chewed up all the way to the center.
>
> I do not understand how we got to this point at all. I haven't ever
> looked before, but, as I said, we have only had rare instances of
> non-engagement, and the next time we hit the pedal, all was well. I
> expected a few bad spots, but I had no idea it was all around. We tried
> very hard to find a spot where the started could engage, but no such.
>
> (We then hooked everything back up, and I tried using the
> wheel-and-ratchet to actually start the old guy, but I just couldn't get
> enough Ummph on the spin to start a cold tractor that hasn't run in a
> couple months. No joy at all.)
>
> Now, if my none-too-trustworthy memory recalls correctly, the ring gear is
> not a part of the flywheel casting but just a ring of teeth fixed to it.
> If that's true, I think I can take it off and flip it around (or replace
> with the beautiful ring off the broken flywheel on the '49 A).
>
> What would be the procedure for removing and reinstalling? Heat?
> Hammer? Harsh language?
>
> Any insight on how we might have gone from what seemed like a few bad
> spots to a ruined ring (so I can try to avoid it again)?
>
> The "original" Steve Allen
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2021 10:16:39 -0500
From: Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] Tractor battery
Message-ID:
<CAP6upciXDv0Pgwuq4T872KPahpM3HM57-CgTSiCddu6uo5MNSw at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Mike, that only tells you a tiny trickle of current generated by the meter
is getting thru, milliamps at best. Actual starter current is five orders
of magnitude greater. You've got some indication but it is by no means the
be-all end-all.
SO
On Sat, Nov 20, 2021 at 1:33 PM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
> I did throw an meter on the ground and the bolt it is bolted to and it
> came back at 0.00 Ohms.
>
> Mike M
>
> On 11/20/2021 11:01 AM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>
> The battery usually sits in a tray and that tray is bolted on with 3 or 4
> bolts. That would be my go-to spot if what I just said about a tray and
> it?s mounting is true for your tractor.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 20, 2021, at 9:40 AM, Carl Szabelski <c.s.szabelski at gmail.com>
> <c.s.szabelski at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?I guess it?s also an issue of how long your cable is. You can get them in
> various lengths and wire sizes, so it becomes a matter of how far you have
> to route the cable. The farther you have to go, the larger the cable size.
> You would also have to consider strapping down the cable if you have to go
> a ways.
>
> Carl
>
>
> On Friday, November 19, 2021, HRP <hrpletch at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> And I don?t picture the adjusting bolt as necessarily having a good
>> connection to the block for the starter current.
>>
>> Howard
>>
>> On Nov 19, 2021, at 11:32 PM, Carl Szabelski <c.s.szabelski at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> I wouldn?t use any bolt that?s primary use is for adjusting. You want a
>> bolt that once tightened down, doesn?t get touched again for any reason. If
>> you have to use one that isn?t as easy to get to, just keep in mind that
>> you shouldn?t ever have to touch it again. Whatever effort you have to go
>> through will hopefully only need to be done once.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>> On Friday, November 19, 2021, Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I have an alternator adjustment bolt that is easy access, would that be
>>> a good choice?
>>>
>>> Mike M
>>>
>>> On 11/16/2021 11:34 PM, Carl Szabelski wrote:
>>>
>>> You can run a new cable to the engine block, just need to find a spot
>>> where there is an unused threaded hole, or where you can remove a bolt and
>>> use it to make the attachment. Clean the area and hit it with a file or
>>> some sandpaper, then run a tap in the hole to make sure everything is clean
>>> before attaching the cable. If necessary use a new bolt and flat washer,
>>> stainless will help with future corrosion issues/concerns.
>>>
>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, November 15, 2021, Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Tore out the battery today, tons of corrosion, to the point that the
>>>> positive nut for the clamp was almost reduced by 75%, I had to pound it
>>>> off. I thought I had things cleaned up but it appears that was not the
>>>> case. I'll go battery shopping tomorrow, and hopefully I can find something
>>>> close. Meanwhile I have the battery case coated in baking soda, to help
>>>> neutralize the leaking battery acid. Question for the list can I jump a
>>>> diesel, without the battery installed? I'm running out of time in Michigan,
>>>> and all our water is shut off except the barn frost free.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Mike M
>>>>
>>>> On 11/15/2021 3:37 PM, Steve W. wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Not a problem, I get to deal with these things a lot. At this point
>>>> even doing simple repairs are becoming hard if not impossible for the
>>>> average DIYer due to the way the companies are building them. There are
>>>> some out there now that have ?sealed drivelines? where they have no
>>>> dipsticks or easily accessible fill plugs to even do routine service and
>>>> you need a scan tool to even check fluid levels!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From: *Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com>
>>>> *Sent: *Monday, November 15, 2021 5:28 AM
>>>> *To: *Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
>>>> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>>> *Subject: *Re: [AT] Tractor battery
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Extremely useful and informative for modern vehicles, thanks SteveW!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Steve O.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Sun, Nov 14, 2021 at 10:39 PM Steve W. <swilliams268 at frontier.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Whatever you do, do NOT use the old ?unhook the battery to see if it
>>>> stays running? test that used to be done. On any vehicles newer than about
>>>> 1998 that is almost a guaranteed way to destroy the charging system. On
>>>> most cars and trucks built from there on up, the voltage regulator is part
>>>> of the engines control unit. Those are not cheap to replace. Another no-no
>>>> is to jump start a newer vehicle without charging the battery or leaving a
>>>> jump pack on it, many of the newer vehicles will read the bad battery and
>>>> crank the voltage and amperage way up to try to compensate for the low
>>>> battery, that can kill the alternator, and if the battery is failing it can
>>>> blow it up from the excessive charging. I can?t count how many vehicles I
>>>> had to repair once the bug measures let people start using their cars
>>>> again, after they were parked for 3-4 months.
>>>>
>>>> Now if you are one of the ?fortunate? who has one of the over
>>>> engineered modern rolling computers made from about 2017 and up, Check
>>>> really close in service information before you replace an old battery, many
>>>> of those need to have the battery initialized into the system because the
>>>> ECU has adjusted itself as the old battery wore out, you need to tell it
>>>> that you are installing the new battery and what it is in CCA and type, be
>>>> it a flooded cell, AGM, Lithium or other as they all use slightly different
>>>> charging routines and it?s easy to cook a battery if it?s set up wrong. To
>>>> go with that, many of the parts stores offer installation as long as you
>>>> have one that is reasonably easy, there are quite a few that are not due to
>>>> the battery locations. OH and for the import owners, be sure which battery
>>>> you actually need as many of the high dollar brands use 2 or three
>>>> different batteries scattered around the vehicle. Mercedes for instance has
>>>> one in the trunk, one under the hood and one tucked in behind the dash!
>>>>
>>>> For those of you who still want to DIY it, here is another tip. On cars
>>>> that have lots of options or anything 2017 and up, the security systems can
>>>> be a royal pain if you remove the battery, they can lock you out of
>>>> everything so you end up towing it to a dealer to have it flashed back. The
>>>> way around this is simple. Find the feed and ground lugs for the fuse box
>>>> or if it has them the jumper terminals mounted out in the open. Now grab a
>>>> power supply or a fully charged battery and connect it up to those, in the
>>>> case of using a spare battery, connect it, start the engine and let it run
>>>> for 20 minutes or so, that will equalize the charge in the add-on battery,
>>>> verify that the charging circuit is working as well, simply by measuring
>>>> the voltage with the engine off, then again with it running. With a power
>>>> supply (NOT A COMMON CHARGER) you just dial it up to the voltage the
>>>> service info says or at least 13 volts. Now you can disconnect the main
>>>> battery without losing any settings or programming because the ECU never
>>>> sees it disconnected. Just remember that the Positive terminal will still
>>>> be hot when you do this, my SOP is to pull the ground side, then take a
>>>> heavy rubber/plastic baggy and as soon as the pos. comes of it goes into
>>>> the bag to keep it safe.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From: *Henry Miller <hank at millerfarm.com>
>>>> *Sent: *Sunday, November 14, 2021 4:23 PM
>>>> *To: *at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>> *Subject: *Re: [AT] Tractor battery
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Be careful with modern cars, some cycle the alternator on and off.
>>>> Weird when driving to see the voltmeter not hold constant. (This was a
>>>> rental car, I almost turned around for one that worked before I figured it
>>>> out )
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>>
>>>> Henry Miller
>>>>
>>>> hank at millerfarm.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Sun, Nov 14, 2021, at 16:37, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>>>
>>>> > Quick check is just battery voltage not running versus running. If
>>>> your
>>>>
>>>> > alternator is putting out something, voltage is higher when running.
>>>> If
>>>>
>>>> > the alternator is bad, voltage is close to the same or a bit lower
>>>> when
>>>>
>>>> > running (probably lower because the battery gave up some juice to
>>>> crank it
>>>>
>>>> > over). If you are wondering if the alternator is somewhere in between
>>>>
>>>> > healthy and dead, turn on as many electrical loads as you can while
>>>>
>>>> > running. Alternator should handle those loads and still give the
>>>> battery
>>>>
>>>> > terminals something over 13.5V. (Because it is supplying other
>>>> things in
>>>>
>>>> > addition to battery recharge, you may not see the whole 14-ish volts,
>>>> but
>>>>
>>>> > it must be greater than 12.6-ish to be pushing charge into the
>>>> battery.
>>>>
>>>> > Hope this helps.
>>>>
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>> > SO
>>>>
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>> > On Sun, Nov 14, 2021 at 3:43 PM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>> >> Thanks Steve, it there a way to test whats coming out the alternator?
>>>>
>>>> >>
>>>>
>>>> >> Mike M
>>>>
>>>> >>
>>>>
>>>> >>
>>>>
>>>> >> On 11/14/2021 2:15 PM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>>>
>>>> >>
>>>>
>>>> >> Hi Mike:
>>>>
>>>> >>
>>>>
>>>> >> I've heard baking soda can neutralize the acid but I'd probably ask
>>>> the
>>>>
>>>> >> Google for backup on that.
>>>>
>>>> >>
>>>>
>>>> >> A good range for battery terminal voltage engine-running is
>>>> 13.6V-14.4V.
>>>>
>>>> >> Some modern voltage regulators have temperature compensation,
>>>> dropping
>>>>
>>>> >> voltage in high temperature conditions (when it is easier to charge
>>>> and
>>>>
>>>> >> easier to overdo it) and raising voltage in the cold (when they're
>>>> not as
>>>>
>>>> >> eager to accept charge). Not all alternators do this, but I just
>>>> wanted to
>>>>
>>>> >> explain why there's such a fairly wide range.
>>>>
>>>> >>
>>>>
>>>> >> SO
>>>>
>>>> >>
>>>>
>>>> >> On Sun, Nov 14, 2021 at 2:03 PM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> >>
>>>>
>>>> >>> Tough to say Steve, I do know that I filled some of the battery
>>>> chambers
>>>>
>>>> >>> with distilled water because some seemed a little low, and it leaked
>>>>
>>>> >>> battery acid for a few days. whats the best way to clean that up? I
>>>> know
>>>>
>>>> >>> it's very caustic. What should the voltage be across the terminals
>>>> with the
>>>>
>>>> >>> engine running?
>>>>
>>>> >>>
>>>>
>>>> >>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> >>> Mike M
>>>>
>>>> >>>
>>>>
>>>> >>> On 10/28/2021 6:08 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>>>
>>>> >>>
>>>>
>>>> >>> The question is, what happened? Is your alternator not charging?
>>>>
>>>> >>>
>>>>
>>>> >>> SO
>>>>
>>>> >>>
>>>>
>>>> >>> On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 9:30 PM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> >>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> Whew!! got it back for now. It started right up and the terminals
>>>> where
>>>>
>>>> >>>> shiny as new, ground as well. Voltage across the terminals was
>>>> 13.3 and
>>>>
>>>> >>>> climbing. I have the trickle charger on it overnight, and will
>>>> give it a
>>>>
>>>> >>>> good workout tomorrow. Thanks for all the help!
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> Regards,
>>>>
>>>> >>>> Mike M
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> On 10/27/2021 1:22 PM, Mike M wrote:
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> When I checked the voltage between the posts with a digital volt
>>>> meter,
>>>>
>>>> >>>> I only got 11.5 volts, I left the charger on overnight, and it's
>>>> now up to
>>>>
>>>> >>>> 13 volts, so I switched to a maintainer. It's raining here today
>>>> so I'm
>>>>
>>>> >>>> leaving it on the charger, and yes I will check the grounds for
>>>> sure!
>>>>
>>>> >>>> Thanks for the advice to all. I'll let you know how it turns out.
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> Regards,
>>>>
>>>> >>>> Mike M
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> On 10/27/2021 7:54 AM, Steve Offiler wrote:
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> I wonder how many thousands of times farmer has typed that over the
>>>>
>>>> >>>> years!
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> When Mike said it only clicked when jumped, that simply says bad
>>>>
>>>> >>>> connection. I?m not sure why the focus on a bad battery just yet.
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> Steve O.
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> On Oct 27, 2021, at 6:47 AM, Indiana Robinson <
>>>> robinson46176 at gmail.com>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> <robinson46176 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> ?
>>>>
>>>> >>>> Check the grounds.
>>>>
>>>> >>>> Check the grounds.
>>>>
>>>> >>>> Check the grounds.
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> .
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 1:22 AM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>> Makes me wish for my old tractor and I could back it up onto a
>>>> hill,
>>>>
>>>> >>>>> let it get rolling and pop the clutch in 2nd gear.
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>> Mike M
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>> On 10/26/2021 11:46 PM, Carl Szabelski wrote:
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>> Mike,
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>> Try jumping it, but leave the cables connected for 20-30 minutes
>>>> before
>>>>
>>>> >>>>> you attempt a start. Even if you?ve had the charger on all night.
>>>> Even with
>>>>
>>>> >>>>> a dead battery it should start and run. It may die when you
>>>> disconnect the
>>>>
>>>> >>>>> cables, but if it doesn?t, it should run, but the battery
>>>> probably won?t
>>>>
>>>> >>>>> take a charge.
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>> Carl
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>> On Tuesday, October 26, 2021, Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>> So my tractor battery went dead overnight. It's an Exide Select
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>> Performance battery, with 925 CCA model 31XHE with 180 minutes of
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>> reserve capacity. I tried jumping it with my truck but no luck
>>>> it would
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>> just click. I started looking online, and about fell out of my
>>>> chair.
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>> Prices started at $300 and and most are out of stock. Does
>>>> anyone have
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>> any good sources for batteries? It was manufactured in 2014, so
>>>> I guess
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>> the clock just ran out. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
>>>> Is
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>> there
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>> anyway to service it, or rejuvenate it?
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>> Thank you,
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>> Mike M
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>> --
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus
>>>> software.
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>>
>>>> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>
>>>> >>>>> AT mailing listAT at lists.antique-tractor.comhttp://
>>>> lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>> <
>>>> https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=icon>
>>>> Virus-free.
>>>>
>>>> >>>>> www.avast.com
>>>>
>>>> >>>>> <
>>>> https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=link
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>
>>>> <#m_4238685920993932403_m_6436324273682177653_m_6934291975578660476_m_1207325010001759490_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>
>>>> >>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>
>>>> >>>>> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>
>>>> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>> >>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> --
>>>>
>>>> >>>> --
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> Francis Robinson
>>>>
>>>> >>>> aka "farmer"
>>>>
>>>> >>>> Central Indiana USA
>>>>
>>>> >>>> robinson46176 at gmail.com
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>
>>>> >>>> AT mailing list
>>>>
>>>> >>>> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>
>>>> >>>> AT mailing listAT at lists.antique-tractor.comhttp://
>>>> lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>
>>>> >>>> AT mailing listAT at lists.antique-tractor.comhttp://
>>>> lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>
>>>> >>>> AT mailing list
>>>>
>>>> >>>> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>> >>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>
>>>>
>>>> >>> _______________________________________________
>>>>
>>>> >>> AT mailing listAT at lists.antique-tractor.comhttp://
>>>> lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>> >>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>
>>>>
>>>> >>> _______________________________________________
>>>>
>>>> >>> AT mailing list
>>>>
>>>> >>> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>> >>>
>>>> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>> >>>
>>>>
>>>> >>
>>>>
>>>> >> _______________________________________________
>>>>
>>>> >> AT mailing listAT at lists.antique-tractor.comhttp://
>>>> lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>> >>
>>>>
>>>> >>
>>>>
>>>> >> _______________________________________________
>>>>
>>>> >> AT mailing list
>>>>
>>>> >> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>> >> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>> >>
>>>>
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>> > _______________________________________________
>>>>
>>>> > AT mailing list
>>>>
>>>> > AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>> > http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
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>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>
>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>
>>>> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> AT mailing list
>>>> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> AT mailing listAT at lists.antique-tractor.comhttp://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> AT mailing listAT at lists.antique-tractor.comhttp://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=icon> Virus-free.
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>>> <#m_-5577907944142978338_m_3800742165242455717_m_4759098005064029871_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
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> AT mailing list
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2021 10:30:30 -0500
From: Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com>
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: [AT] Diesel Fuel Question
Message-ID:
<CAP6upciChe5FPBadYre0hGXw9doQQ3OBjSdibTojCZ_3yB76Mg at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
I recently discovered I have a diesel fuel leak, and while trying to find
time for diagnosis and repair, I started parking the tractor over a big
drip-pan. The pan collected roughly a gallon over the course of ... well,
I can't say precisely but around a week or two. That fuel dripped thru the
normal grime found on engines, so it's pretty dirty. (And I since
discovered that turning off the fuel petcock effectively controls the leak)
I have filtered it multiple times. First thru paper towel; clogged three
or four getting that done. Next thru coffee filters, again, it took 4 to
finish the job. Finally thru a Covid mask (regular surgical type not
N95). That one never clogged and captured very minimal additional material.
What I have now is therefore free of particulate big enough to catch in
coffee filters and surgical masks. It remains discolored; if fresh diesel
was the color of Budweiser, this stuff looks like a nice brown ale.
What says the list? Burn it? Will the tractor's fuel filter take out
everything big enough to cause problems with the pump or injectors? (Seems
like that should be a design criteria for that filter, no?) If I do burn
it, I will dilute it about 5:1 with fresh fuel.
If I don't burn it, it will eventually be carted away to our local
Hazardous Waste Day held annually about 25 miles from here - I manage to
remember and get over there only about once every 3-5 years.
Steve O.
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2021 16:54:40 +0000
From: "Gunnells, Brad R" <brad-gunnells at uiowa.edu>
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] [External] Diesel Fuel Question
Message-ID:
<DM6PR04MB580372B3532B4B38BDCC920EF99E9 at DM6PR04MB5803.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
You would think the filter would take care of things that could be harmful. But myself I'm not sure I would. Is it worth the few $$ of fuel "if" something else should happen? For me I'd say no.
Myself I would use the fuel for other purposes. Parts cleaning solvent. Mix 50/50 with used motor oil makes a good brush pile starter or to use the 50/50 mix on wood trailer decking (although be careful as it can be slick after a rain).
But that's just my .02.
Brad
________________________________
From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> on behalf of Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2021 9:30 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: [External] [AT] Diesel Fuel Question
I recently discovered I have a diesel fuel leak, and while trying to find time for diagnosis and repair, I started parking the tractor over a big drip-pan. The pan collected roughly a gallon over the course of ... well, I can't say precisely but around a week or two. That fuel dripped thru the normal grime found on engines, so it's pretty dirty. (And I since discovered that turning off the fuel petcock effectively controls the leak)
I have filtered it multiple times. First thru paper towel; clogged three or four getting that done. Next thru coffee filters, again, it took 4 to finish the job. Finally thru a Covid mask (regular surgical type not N95). That one never clogged and captured very minimal additional material.
What I have now is therefore free of particulate big enough to catch in coffee filters and surgical masks. It remains discolored; if fresh diesel was the color of Budweiser, this stuff looks like a nice brown ale.
What says the list? Burn it? Will the tractor's fuel filter take out everything big enough to cause problems with the pump or injectors? (Seems like that should be a design criteria for that filter, no?) If I do burn it, I will dilute it about 5:1 with fresh fuel.
If I don't burn it, it will eventually be carted away to our local Hazardous Waste Day held annually about 25 miles from here - I manage to remember and get over there only about once every 3-5 years.
Steve O.
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------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2021 12:25:50 -0500
From: "rbrooks at hvc.rr.com" <rbrooks at hvc.rr.com>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] [External] Diesel Fuel Question
Message-ID: <427C6BD2-C254-4CBA-B629-FDE247A8FF31 at hvc.rr.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Steve
I would mix with motor oil and use as a fire starter or a wood preservative. I would not try to it as fuel
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 21, 2021, at 11:54 AM, Gunnells, Brad R <brad-gunnells at uiowa.edu> wrote:
>
> ?
> You would think the filter would take care of things that could be harmful. But myself I'm not sure I would. Is it worth the few $$ of fuel "if" something else should happen? For me I'd say no.
>
> Myself I would use the fuel for other purposes. Parts cleaning solvent. Mix 50/50 with used motor oil makes a good brush pile starter or to use the 50/50 mix on wood trailer decking (although be careful as it can be slick after a rain).
>
> But that's just my .02.
> Brad
> From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> on behalf of Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2021 9:30 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Subject: [External] [AT] Diesel Fuel Question
>
> I recently discovered I have a diesel fuel leak, and while trying to find time for diagnosis and repair, I started parking the tractor over a big drip-pan. The pan collected roughly a gallon over the course of ... well, I can't say precisely but around a week or two. That fuel dripped thru the normal grime found on engines, so it's pretty dirty. (And I since discovered that turning off the fuel petcock effectively controls the leak)
>
> I have filtered it multiple times. First thru paper towel; clogged three or four getting that done. Next thru coffee filters, again, it took 4 to finish the job. Finally thru a Covid mask (regular surgical type not N95). That one never clogged and captured very minimal additional material.
>
> What I have now is therefore free of particulate big enough to catch in coffee filters and surgical masks. It remains discolored; if fresh diesel was the color of Budweiser, this stuff looks like a nice brown ale.
>
> What says the list? Burn it? Will the tractor's fuel filter take out everything big enough to cause problems with the pump or injectors? (Seems like that should be a design criteria for that filter, no?) If I do burn it, I will dilute it about 5:1 with fresh fuel.
>
> If I don't burn it, it will eventually be carted away to our local Hazardous Waste Day held annually about 25 miles from here - I manage to remember and get over there only about once every 3-5 years.
>
> Steve O.
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2021 11:40:10 -0600
From: Jason <dejoodster at gmail.com>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] Diesel Fuel Question
Message-ID:
<CANbPaNFFicgsWy8RteJtZbMDXhWB7Za0UpbOyk0Mwxv5RhkxRw at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Your 5 to 1 idea sounds fine as long as it's older non-electronically
controlled injection system.
IH 1066 sure. Case IH MX 285 with CAPS fuel system, never in a million
years.
Jason
On Sun, Nov 21, 2021, 9:31 AM Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com> wrote:
> I recently discovered I have a diesel fuel leak, and while trying to find
> time for diagnosis and repair, I started parking the tractor over a big
> drip-pan. The pan collected roughly a gallon over the course of ... well,
> I can't say precisely but around a week or two. That fuel dripped thru the
> normal grime found on engines, so it's pretty dirty. (And I since
> discovered that turning off the fuel petcock effectively controls the leak)
>
> I have filtered it multiple times. First thru paper towel; clogged three
> or four getting that done. Next thru coffee filters, again, it took 4 to
> finish the job. Finally thru a Covid mask (regular surgical type not
> N95). That one never clogged and captured very minimal additional material.
>
> What I have now is therefore free of particulate big enough to catch in
> coffee filters and surgical masks. It remains discolored; if fresh diesel
> was the color of Budweiser, this stuff looks like a nice brown ale.
>
> What says the list? Burn it? Will the tractor's fuel filter take out
> everything big enough to cause problems with the pump or injectors? (Seems
> like that should be a design criteria for that filter, no?) If I do burn
> it, I will dilute it about 5:1 with fresh fuel.
>
> If I don't burn it, it will eventually be carted away to our local
> Hazardous Waste Day held annually about 25 miles from here - I manage to
> remember and get over there only about once every 3-5 years.
>
> Steve O.
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2021 13:00:21 -0500
From: Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] Diesel Fuel Question
Message-ID:
<CAP6upcgwuJNSH3=qRW6Q_h6d7VdX+9YdNPeryQS7KTqEcpzyNA at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Thanks everyone, so far. This has nothing to do with frugality. It's like
$3.00 worth of fuel. This is more about the only two choices I'm seeing at
the moment: burn it; or store it for a relatively long time until I can
get around to disposing of it properly. As for use as a degreaser, I use
mineral spirits for that. Trailer decking, I don't own a trailer. As for
brush burning, I don't. I either shred brush or cart it to my local
transfer station who has a big brush-pile and chipper/composting operation.
On Sun, Nov 21, 2021 at 12:40 PM Jason <dejoodster at gmail.com> wrote:
> Your 5 to 1 idea sounds fine as long as it's older non-electronically
> controlled injection system.
>
> IH 1066 sure. Case IH MX 285 with CAPS fuel system, never in a million
> years.
>
> Jason
>
> On Sun, Nov 21, 2021, 9:31 AM Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I recently discovered I have a diesel fuel leak, and while trying to find
>> time for diagnosis and repair, I started parking the tractor over a big
>> drip-pan. The pan collected roughly a gallon over the course of ... well,
>> I can't say precisely but around a week or two. That fuel dripped thru the
>> normal grime found on engines, so it's pretty dirty. (And I since
>> discovered that turning off the fuel petcock effectively controls the leak)
>>
>> I have filtered it multiple times. First thru paper towel; clogged three
>> or four getting that done. Next thru coffee filters, again, it took 4 to
>> finish the job. Finally thru a Covid mask (regular surgical type not
>> N95). That one never clogged and captured very minimal additional material.
>>
>> What I have now is therefore free of particulate big enough to catch in
>> coffee filters and surgical masks. It remains discolored; if fresh diesel
>> was the color of Budweiser, this stuff looks like a nice brown ale.
>>
>> What says the list? Burn it? Will the tractor's fuel filter take out
>> everything big enough to cause problems with the pump or injectors? (Seems
>> like that should be a design criteria for that filter, no?) If I do burn
>> it, I will dilute it about 5:1 with fresh fuel.
>>
>> If I don't burn it, it will eventually be carted away to our local
>> Hazardous Waste Day held annually about 25 miles from here - I manage to
>> remember and get over there only about once every 3-5 years.
>>
>> Steve O.
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2021 13:19:06 -0500
From: Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com>
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: Re: [AT] Diesel Fuel Question
Message-ID: <c6ddb091-eeb8-53cf-cd90-f760f97d48b7 at gmx.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
Steve do you change your own oil? If so mix it in and bring it to a
recycle station. Around here most Tractor Supply and O'reilly parts
store take used oil. technically diesel is an oil true?
Mike M
On 11/21/2021 1:00 PM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
> Thanks everyone, so far.? This has nothing to do with frugality.? It's
> like $3.00 worth of fuel.? This is more about the only two choices I'm
> seeing at the moment:? burn it; or store it for a relatively long time
> until I can get around to disposing of it properly.? As for use as a
> degreaser, I use mineral spirits for that.? Trailer decking, I don't
> own a trailer.? As for brush burning, I don't.? I either shred brush
> or cart it to my local transfer station who has a big brush-pile and
> chipper/composting operation.
>
> On Sun, Nov 21, 2021 at 12:40 PM Jason <dejoodster at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Your 5 to 1 idea sounds fine as long as it's older
> non-electronically controlled injection system.
>
> IH 1066 sure. Case IH MX 285 with CAPS fuel system, never in a
> million years.
>
> Jason
>
> On Sun, Nov 21, 2021, 9:31 AM Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> I recently discovered I have a diesel fuel leak, and while
> trying to find time for diagnosis and repair, I started
> parking the tractor over a big drip-pan.? The pan collected
> roughly a gallon over the course of ... well, I can't say
> precisely but around a week or two.? That fuel dripped thru
> the normal grime found on engines, so it's pretty dirty.? (And
> I since discovered that turning off the fuel petcock
> effectively controls the leak)
>
> I have filtered it multiple times.? First thru paper towel;
> clogged three or four getting that done. Next thru coffee
> filters, again, it took 4 to finish the job.? Finally thru a
> Covid mask (regular surgical type not N95).? That one never
> clogged and captured very minimal additional material.
>
> What I have now is therefore free of particulate big enough to
> catch in coffee filters and surgical masks.? It remains
> discolored; if fresh diesel was the color of Budweiser, this
> stuff looks like a nice brown ale.
>
> What says the list?? Burn it?? Will the tractor's fuel filter
> take out everything big enough to cause problems with the pump
> or injectors?? (Seems like that should be a design criteria
> for that filter, no?)? If I do burn it, I will dilute it about
> 5:1 with fresh fuel.
>
> If I don't burn it, it will eventually be carted away to our
> local Hazardous Waste Day held annually about 25 miles from
> here - I manage to remember and get over there only about once
> every 3-5 years.
>
> Steve O.
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
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>
> _______________________________________________
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>
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2021 14:03:36 -0600
From: "Jim Becker" <mr.jebecker at gmail.com>
To: "Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group"
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] Diesel Fuel Question
Message-ID: <965128F93EB74A38B22A09B92F3500DB at ShopLaptop>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Do you have or know somebody nearby with a torpedo heater? I don?t think I would hesitate to use it in one of them.
Jim Becker
From: Stephen Offiler
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2021 12:00 PM
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
Subject: Re: [AT] Diesel Fuel Question
Thanks everyone, so far. This has nothing to do with frugality. It's like $3.00 worth of fuel. This is more about the only two choices I'm seeing at the moment: burn it; or store it for a relatively long time until I can get around to disposing of it properly. As for use as a degreaser, I use mineral spirits for that. Trailer decking, I don't own a trailer. As for brush burning, I don't. I either shred brush or cart it to my local transfer station who has a big brush-pile and chipper/composting operation.
On Sun, Nov 21, 2021 at 12:40 PM Jason <dejoodster at gmail.com> wrote:
Your 5 to 1 idea sounds fine as long as it's older non-electronically controlled injection system.
IH 1066 sure. Case IH MX 285 with CAPS fuel system, never in a million years.
Jason
On Sun, Nov 21, 2021, 9:31 AM Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com> wrote:
I recently discovered I have a diesel fuel leak, and while trying to find time for diagnosis and repair, I started parking the tractor over a big drip-pan. The pan collected roughly a gallon over the course of ... well, I can't say precisely but around a week or two. That fuel dripped thru the normal grime found on engines, so it's pretty dirty. (And I since discovered that turning off the fuel petcock effectively controls the leak)
I have filtered it multiple times. First thru paper towel; clogged three or four getting that done. Next thru coffee filters, again, it took 4 to finish the job. Finally thru a Covid mask (regular surgical type not N95). That one never clogged and captured very minimal additional material.
What I have now is therefore free of particulate big enough to catch in coffee filters and surgical masks. It remains discolored; if fresh diesel was the color of Budweiser, this stuff looks like a nice brown ale.
What says the list? Burn it? Will the tractor's fuel filter take out everything big enough to cause problems with the pump or injectors? (Seems like that should be a design criteria for that filter, no?) If I do burn it, I will dilute it about 5:1 with fresh fuel.
If I don't burn it, it will eventually be carted away to our local Hazardous Waste Day held annually about 25 miles from here - I manage to remember and get over there only about once every 3-5 years.
Steve O.
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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2021 15:11:39 -0500
From: Indiana Robinson <robinson46176 at gmail.com>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] Diesel Fuel Question
Message-ID:
<CAMe_8WXev5JrSbZTRumK-FEvp8vbS422mEi87ye+10RPvMyFPw at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Hi Steve
I'm going to post a warning here, not for you, I'm sure that you are well
aware of the risk... Many others may not be as aware...
When looking for fuel leaks on diesel engines NEVER ! ever look with your
fingers.The line pressure is so high that a tiny almost invisible leak can
cut flesh even through gloves.
I can't begin to tell you how many guys I have seen check for leaks by
fingering around the injectors, lines and fittings... If you need to check,
use something like a strip of cardboard.
BTW, as cheap as I am, I wouldn't use that fuel in an engine. I do keep
some similar materials around for rough washdowns.
Now, I do use filtered old gasoline, usually filtered through a couple of
old pieces of bedsheet. I only use that in old tractors, never in an
injected vehicle.
I've had better years than 2021. I would like to see it get better or go
away...
.
On Sun, Nov 21, 2021 at 1:01 PM Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks everyone, so far. This has nothing to do with frugality. It's
> like $3.00 worth of fuel. This is more about the only two choices I'm
> seeing at the moment: burn it; or store it for a relatively long time
> until I can get around to disposing of it properly. As for use as a
> degreaser, I use mineral spirits for that. Trailer decking, I don't own a
> trailer. As for brush burning, I don't. I either shred brush or cart it
> to my local transfer station who has a big brush-pile and
> chipper/composting operation.
>
> On Sun, Nov 21, 2021 at 12:40 PM Jason <dejoodster at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Your 5 to 1 idea sounds fine as long as it's older non-electronically
>> controlled injection system.
>>
>> IH 1066 sure. Case IH MX 285 with CAPS fuel system, never in a million
>> years.
>>
>> Jason
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 21, 2021, 9:31 AM Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I recently discovered I have a diesel fuel leak, and while trying to
>>> find time for diagnosis and repair, I started parking the tractor over a
>>> big drip-pan. The pan collected roughly a gallon over the course of ...
>>> well, I can't say precisely but around a week or two. That fuel dripped
>>> thru the normal grime found on engines, so it's pretty dirty. (And I since
>>> discovered that turning off the fuel petcock effectively controls the leak)
>>>
>>> I have filtered it multiple times. First thru paper towel; clogged
>>> three or four getting that done. Next thru coffee filters, again, it took
>>> 4 to finish the job. Finally thru a Covid mask (regular surgical type not
>>> N95). That one never clogged and captured very minimal additional material.
>>>
>>> What I have now is therefore free of particulate big enough to catch in
>>> coffee filters and surgical masks. It remains discolored; if fresh diesel
>>> was the color of Budweiser, this stuff looks like a nice brown ale.
>>>
>>> What says the list? Burn it? Will the tractor's fuel filter take out
>>> everything big enough to cause problems with the pump or injectors? (Seems
>>> like that should be a design criteria for that filter, no?) If I do burn
>>> it, I will dilute it about 5:1 with fresh fuel.
>>>
>>> If I don't burn it, it will eventually be carted away to our local
>>> Hazardous Waste Day held annually about 25 miles from here - I manage to
>>> remember and get over there only about once every 3-5 years.
>>>
>>> Steve O.
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> AT mailing list
>>> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
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--
--
Francis Robinson
aka "farmer"
Central Indiana USA
robinson46176 at gmail.com
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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2021 14:22:05 -0600
From: Jim Thomson <macowboy at comcast.net>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] [External] Diesel Fuel Question
Message-ID: <946913FA-40CB-410B-BBE6-FE235AB14D34 at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Steve
I would use it to start a fire in your fire pit. It is not worth the money to run it through your tractor.
Jim Thomson
Windy and cold Iowa
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 21, 2021, at 11:26 AM, rbrooks at hvc.rr.com wrote:
>
> ?Steve
>
> I would mix with motor oil and use as a fire starter or a wood preservative. I would not try to it as fuel
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>>> On Nov 21, 2021, at 11:54 AM, Gunnells, Brad R <brad-gunnells at uiowa.edu> wrote:
>>>
>> ?
>> You would think the filter would take care of things that could be harmful. But myself I'm not sure I would. Is it worth the few $$ of fuel "if" something else should happen? For me I'd say no.
>>
>> Myself I would use the fuel for other purposes. Parts cleaning solvent. Mix 50/50 with used motor oil makes a good brush pile starter or to use the 50/50 mix on wood trailer decking (although be careful as it can be slick after a rain).
>>
>> But that's just my .02.
>> Brad
>> From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> on behalf of Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2021 9:30 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>> Subject: [External] [AT] Diesel Fuel Question
>>
>> I recently discovered I have a diesel fuel leak, and while trying to find time for diagnosis and repair, I started parking the tractor over a big drip-pan. The pan collected roughly a gallon over the course of ... well, I can't say precisely but around a week or two. That fuel dripped thru the normal grime found on engines, so it's pretty dirty. (And I since discovered that turning off the fuel petcock effectively controls the leak)
>>
>> I have filtered it multiple times. First thru paper towel; clogged three or four getting that done. Next thru coffee filters, again, it took 4 to finish the job. Finally thru a Covid mask (regular surgical type not N95). That one never clogged and captured very minimal additional material.
>>
>> What I have now is therefore free of particulate big enough to catch in coffee filters and surgical masks. It remains discolored; if fresh diesel was the color of Budweiser, this stuff looks like a nice brown ale.
>>
>> What says the list? Burn it? Will the tractor's fuel filter take out everything big enough to cause problems with the pump or injectors? (Seems like that should be a design criteria for that filter, no?) If I do burn it, I will dilute it about 5:1 with fresh fuel.
>>
>> If I don't burn it, it will eventually be carted away to our local Hazardous Waste Day held annually about 25 miles from here - I manage to remember and get over there only about once every 3-5 years.
>>
>> Steve O.
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
> _______________________________________________
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> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
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